I have a 225 out of a 76 Volare. I am in the process of acquiring parts to rebuild it and need a little bit of advice on how best to proceed.

I have the head off and am planning to send it to a machine shop to have a set of engnbldr valves put in, along with the valve seats and guides and 340 springs. I was also planning on getting the head shaved. I was mainly doing this because i have read that newer gaskets are thicker. I was also hoping on getting a small compression increase. I have a 2 X 1 intake that will be going on this engine and am planning on getting 1920s to put in it. I am not looking for a real high performance engine, just figured that since i was doing the rebuild and needed to send the head to the shop anyway (snapped off stud) that i might as well get the other work done at the same time.

So questions:
1. Will i be okay still running the stock cam with a setup like this?

2. How much should i get shaved?

I know i have forgot to put in some useful info, but this post seemed a little to long already.

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Currently a 1976 /6 with no car to put it in, hoping to build a hot rod around it.

Hello ro23dart,

I am just down the road from you in Blacksburg - 2 hrs. If you can drive a bit for machine work, Terry Walters engines in Roanoke (540-774-8605)is quite good and with fair prices. They have done some Slant work for me and a friend of mine.

Without seeing measurements on anything, I'd say mill it 0.060" and that will work well with your stock cam, pushrods and rocker gear.

You will also gain mileage and power by going to a 2.25" exhaust pipe, or go with Dutra Duals for even more free breathing street use.

Happy building,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

1) stock cam will be ok, but you are leaving some performance on the table.
2) This will depend on several factors.
A) how far the piston is down in the cylinder.
B) Thickness of the gasket
C) Combustion chamber cc's now.
D) desired compression ratio.
I like about 9 to one, myself, but that might require some distributer mods, to run regular fuel, without detonation.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Gobs of power are in the head.

Harrisonburg? Nice truck stop there! Killer omelets!

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I have a 1975 Dodge D100 truck it has a 225 with stock cam and bottom end. I had the head milled .053", 340 valve springs installed, bronze guides, new seals and stock valve job and installed a new Fel-Pro head gasket. It REALLY woke this engine up!! It had a tight bottom end so I thought it made good sense to do this and I'm glad I did it runs like a champ! I had some pinging issues, then I had DI recurve the distributor and that made all the difference in the world. Now Im able to actually run 12deg BTDC with NO pinging.

What kind of compression ratio could i get without replacing the pistons? After the valve work is done on the head i will cc them and see how much to shave there and measure the piston depth and see what kind of wiggle room i have there.

I just realized that since i have already pulled the cam i might as well put in a new one. Any suggestions for a cam and the above combo that will give decent power on pump gas. This will go in a hot rod and it will be pretty light, i am hoping that what i lack in power i will make up in power to weight ratio.

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Currently a 1976 /6 with no car to put it in, hoping to build a hot rod around it.

Check out the Engine FAQ, Engine matrix section.
I would regrind your cam, bump up the compression and recurve the distributor.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I read through the engine matrix and was surprised that no one had posted an engine build with an offy 2x1 intake. i know it isnt really an optimal setup i just dont want to screw something up by building a setup that wont work well with the dual singles.

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Currently a 1976 /6 with no car to put it in, hoping to build a hot rod around it.

After a good rebuild it doesn't matter how many carbs you run. You can run a single, a two barrel, 4 barrel or 6.....

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

It kind of does when it comes to utilizing the engine's VE best, for the longest time our local circle track guys exploited a loophole in the rules that the carb was restricted to a single Holley 350 cfm 2300 on their motors...it was found that running engines in the 13-15:1 SCR range with this little of carb made the best amount of power but didn't ping/detonate because the volume was restricted...rules change ended that and now they run a different and not as hot configuration...

Given that he will have no more than 400 cfm with 2 1-barrel carbs (call it 370 cfm at best at 3" of drop...and even less at WOT). If going for best street manners he should look at a 9:1 engine with a street cam like Ted has for his build....I wouldn't think going to a 10:1 motor and an Erson 270 or 280 would work the most efficiently given that 1 barrels are calibrated a certain way and you can't modify them too much compared to the 2 and 4 barrels...So I'd stick with the moderate compression (9-9.2 or so), and pick a short duration cam (like the RV10/RV15/Comp 252...etc..) to work on building good street manners, a nice fat level torque band, and good vaccuum in all the ranges- which should benefit with a smooth idle, good street manners and good mileage (you will also need to recurve the distributor to get the most out of any engine build anyway on top of this).

-D.idiot