I don't doubt Dan would send you a good carb.

I will keep my fingers crossed for you!

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Hey All,
Went out at Noon, stood in front of Lorrie and told her that I loved her dearly, and that I was sorry for letting her sit for so many years unattended. But that I had done my best to fix her up, and that there was nothing more that I knew how to do that would make her start and run if she didn't want to. And then I told her that if she didn't start up and run that I was going to park her again in the same spot where she sat for so many years and use her as a storage shed, and just go on with my life without her.

Then summoning up as much courage as I could muster, got in, turned on the Run Switch, and activated the Start Switch.

There was a little bit of turbulence in the Fuel Filter as the Fuel Pump worked... Lorrie's MIGHTY 225 Slant Six Engine turned over about three times and STARTED RIGHT UP! She settled into a 1,250 RPM Idle with the Fast Idle Screw on the High Step of the Cam.

Checked the Voltage with the Tachometer/Dwell/Voltage Meter. The FBO Systems VR-1 Electronic Voltage Regulator was allowing 13.4 Volts to go to the Battery.

Brought the Engine up to operating temperature with the Fast Idle Screw still on the Cam. Then adjusted it to where it had an 800 RPM Idle. Blipped the Throttle, and the Cam dropped away, and the RPMs dropped to 500 sitting on the Hot Engine Idle Screw. Adjusted it up to 550 RPM.

The Engine is Turbine Smooth.

Noticed that there was a teeny-tiny bit of gasoline seeping out of a crack in the Fuel Line connected to the Fuel Inlet of the WA-3. Put a rag under it so that it wouldn't leak down on the Manifold.

Shut the Engine down, went into the house and got my wallet, check book and house keys. Went back out. Got in, activated the Starter.

Lorrie fired right up, and we went shopping.

On the way back home, stopped at the Sayco Hardware Store and got a foot of 3/8" Fuel Hose. Am going to remove the OLD Hose and install the NEW this afternoon.

BUT, we are still not out of the woods though.

Tomorrow morning, an attempt to start Lorrie with the temperatures in the 40s will be made. She may or may not start. We'll just have to wait and see. Time will tell.

Anyway, am not sure that the neighbors didn't see me out in front of Lorrie just talking away. If some guys in white coats come to visit, am NOT going to try to buy ice cream from them just because they're dressed like Good Humor men.

Will let you all know what happens tomorrow.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hooray!

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Great news! I'm thinking you might want to double check that fuel hose size, I'm thinking 5/16"?? But Lorrie may well be 3/8" just thought I'd mention that before tryout pull it off! Good luck in the morning

Hey All,
Wednesday Late Afternoon Update:

Just got back from putting the NEW Fuel Hose on from the Fuel Filter to the Inlet of the WA-3. AND cut about 1" off of the Hose that goes from the PC Valve to the Vacuum Inlet of the WA-3. It was showing some signs of cracking where it fits over the Fitting on the WA-3.

Once all that was finished, the Choke was completely closed. Gave the WA-3 a single pump on the Acceleration Pedal, and the Choke Cam went to the Highest Step. Turned on the Run Switch, activated the Start Switch AND LORRIE STARTED RIGHT UP!

So NOW, the question is: Will Lorrie's MIGHTY 225 Slant Six start tomorrow morning with the temperature in the 40s?

We will see. Time will tell.

Will keep you updated on developments.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Steve,
This has happened before. Lorrie would start in the afternoon, but not start in the morning when it's cold. Am NOT celebrating YET. Will see later this morning.
As it turns out, YOU are right, and will change it out once Lorrie can take me back to the Sayco Hardware Store for the 5/16" Hose. For now, the 3/8" hose is installed and clamped down tight. It didn't leak when the Engine was started, so think it will be alright for now.
Thanks for the best wishes. Will let you know what happens.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Ted,
As mentioned previously, the Holley 1920 was slated to go back on at the appropriate time of this renovation, but in preparation for rebuilding it, it was being cleaned. The Berryman's Chemtool disintegrated the assembly in the throat. Just ate it away!
This Bendix Stromber WA-3 is somewhat simpler than the Holley 1920. And MUCH better constructed. Heavier casting, with no Gaskets below the Fuel Level in the Fuel Bowl.
How do you do that? the Fuel Bowl is mounted on the side with the lower part of the Gasket below the fuel line.
Usually keep a good, upbeat attitude, but got overly tired, and fatigue increases the pain with which is dealt with daily. Am bit more rested, and feeling better. Will be alright.

Anyway, thanks for the encouraging words.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Thursday Morning Update:

Temperature 42 degrees.

Went out, gave Lorrie one pump on the Accelerator. Choke Cam set with the Choke Plate closed. Turned on the Run Switch. Activated the Start Switch.

LORRIE WOULD NOT START.

Got out the MultiMeter, to check the Voltage to the NAPA Echlin TP45 Control Module. Accidentally touched the B Terminal of the Control Module AND the Aluminum Heat Sink with the MultiMeter Probe. Got a Spark!

Checked the 32 Amp Fuse that feeds the Run Switch. It was blown. Replaced the Fuse. Hope that having that happen didn't blow the Control Module. Would it do THAT?

Carefully Checked the B Terminal of the Control Module. It had 12.39 Volts going to it.

Pulled the wire to the IGN Terminal of the FBO Systems VR-1 Electronic Voltage Regulator. It had 12.39 Volts going to it. Am certain that there is nothing wrong with the Run Switch.

There is also nothing wrong with the Start Switch as it activates the Starter Solenoid EVERY time.

Gave the WA-3 a shot of Start Fluid. LORRIE STILL WOULD NOT START. The Start Fluid didn't even make her cough.

There is no apparent reason why Lorrie won't start. She started yesterday here three times, in the late morning. We went to the Grocery Store, and she started once there. Stopped at the Hardware Store, and she started once there. Brought her home, changed the Fuel Line, and she started right up. She was just fine when she was shut down. She sat overnight. Temperature went down into the high 30s. It was up to 42 degrees when an attempt was made to start her, and LORRIE WOULDN'T START this morning.

Put in a NEW 32 Amp Fuse between the Battery and the Fuse Panel Common. Put in a NEW 32 Amp Fuse in the Line to the Run Switch. Tried her again. LORRIE WOULDN'T START.

Thought that maybe, just maybe, that she isn't getting ENOUGH Gasoline. Gave her two more pumps on the Acceleration Pedal. Cranked the Starter. LORRIE WOULDN'T START.

Am going to go pull the Number 6 Spark Plug to see if it is wet with Gasoline.

Will let you know what is found.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Thursday Mid-Morning Update

Went out and pulled Number 6 Spark Plug. It was wet with gasoline, but all the soot was gone from Lorrie having been driven yesterday. Put it into the Spark Plug Wire Boot and laid it on a ground. Cranked the Engine and got a BIG FAT Blue/White Spark. So the NAPA Echlin TP45 Control Module is still functional.

Pulled all six Spark Plugs. Plug Number 6 was wet with gasoline. Plug Number 3 was wet with gasoline. The rest were fine. Plugs Numbers 6 and 1 were all cleaned up of the soot that was on them.

Have pulled the Bendix Stromberg Model WA-3 Carburetor.

The plan is this:

Go out this afternoon after the gasoline has cleared out of the Cylinders. Reinstall the Spark Plugs. Reinstall the Carburetor. See if Lorrie will start. If she will, then will remove the Carburetor. Then tomorrow morning go out while it’s still cold with no gas in the Carburetor and reinstall it and see if Lorrie will start. If she will start tomorrow morning when it’s cold, that will mean that the Carburetor is leaking into the Intake Manifold overnight.

If that is the case, then will have to find out how to keep the Carburetor from leaking into the Intake Manifold overnight.

Whadday think?

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

I think you are on a good diagnostic path. If it IS a faulty carburetor, I may have an extra one barrel carb I would send you for free.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Some thoughts to consider......Heat soak!

You need a better needle and seat to keep the gas shut off and dribbling in. You also need some way to keep the carb shielded from the heat so it doesn't expand the gas and forcing it to dribble in. Heat shield, smaller air cleaner and or electric fan to cool down the compartment. The dog house just traps heat and makes the situation worse. After shut off my fans kick on to cool the engine compartment. Restarts are lightening fast, no cranking......

Look at my pictures, click on the red link. I have a fuel pressure gauge to verify that the needle and seat are holding pressure. When the needle goes bad or if the float goes bad, you can watch the fuel pressure drop after shut off. The gas will start dribbling and you will see gas vapors rising with the air cleaner off. This condition will make for a wet start the next morning. It will also cause vapor locking if try to restart hot after about 20-30 minutes.

As a example: normal fuel pressure is 5.5 to 6 pounds with a stock fuel pump. After shut off on a hot day I will see as much as 12 to 15 pounds on the fuel pressure gauge. If the needle and seat were not holding, all that fuel would be leaking into the intake manifold. As the fans blow over the top of the engine the pressure will very slowly go down and hold right a 6 pounds for 6 to 8 hours or until the air temp drops into the 30's.

Sorry to hear about your Holley 1920 economizer body. Snag another one. I usually keep a couple of spares for my carb. They come in handy.

How do I do jet changes with out loosing a drop of fuel? Easy!
I slide a cut down Folgers red plastic coffee bucket under the carb. It sits right on the heat shield. Pull the four screws and all the fuel is captured which gets poured back into the gas tank. Pull the jet and replace, oil the gasket, which is about 7 years old now....and install the four screws. This process takes about 2.5 minutes on race days.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Hey Reed,
Brought the WA-3 in and took the Air Horn off of the Body. Wanted to check to see if there was ANY way that the Float could maybe be sticking to where it wouldn't float. I'll be damned if I could make it stick.

Also I held the Body up-side-down to where the weight of the Float was holding the Needle in the Seat, and then blew into the Fuel Inlet. Was not able to generate enough pressure to make the Needle&Seat leak.
Well, here is the plan: Am going to let the Engine dry out today with the Spark Plugs out and the WA-3 off the Manifold. Then late this afternoon am going to go put the WA-3 back on and the Spark Plugs back in.

Yesterday when the WA-3 was reinstalled, it only took three revolutions of the Engine for it to start. I mean, as soon as there was ANY gas in the Fuel Bowl, Lorrie lit right up. Have no reason to believe that it won't do the same if it were tried this afternoon.

BUT am not going to try to start it this afternoon.

Will wait till tomorrow morning when it's once again in the low 40s. Will then give it a try. BUT this time there will have been no gasoline in the WA-3 to leak into the Intake Manifold overnight.

Am betting Lorrie will START RIGHT UP no matter what the temperature is.

Now, about your VERY generous offer of another Carburetor: Let's do this: I would REALLY like to get this Bendix Stromberg WA-3 to work. It's a very nice, rare unit, and fits right in with Ms. American's and Lorrie's rarity.

And if the reality is that the fuel is being "dribbled" into the Intake Manifold as Ted has suggested, there HAS to be a reason for it. Would LIKE to find what it is.

Ted has made some good points, and has proffered some good solutions, and I would like to address them.

If after doing THAT, and if it is all to no avail, then if you would let me pay for the shipping, I will take you up on your offer. OK?

Anyway, am every once in a while going out and cranking Lorrie's MIGHTY 225 Slant Six over with the Starter without the Spark Plugs being installed to air out the Cylinders.

The WA-3 is all set to be installed, and it only takes about ten minutes to do the deed. So that will be done here around 5:00 p.m.

Then tomorrow morning first thing, will give starting the Engine a try.

Will, of course, give a morning update on the results.

Thanks for the response and the offer.

Be well.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

OK, keep us posted! Get it? Lorrie is a mail van, or a postal van, so keep us "posted", yeah, well, its a bad pun....

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Hey Ted,
Lorrie hasn't gotten hot enough for "heat soak". The Exhaust Manifold get hot, but the Intake Manifold doesn't get much above body temperature. And there is a Phenolic Spacer between the Intake Manifold and the Bottom of the WA-3. Also, the Engine is presently totally exposed. It is not enclosed by the Engine Cabinetry as it is not presently installed. The Temperature Gauge has not gone higher than 160 degrees as the Engine has a 160 degree Thermostat. Am 99% positive that heat soak is NOT a factor.
Tried to make the Needle&Seat leak this morning, and couldn't generate enough pressure by blowing into the Fuel Inlet with the Float just hanging with the Body of the Carburetor up-side-down to make the Needle&Seat leak. But, just tried to see how much pressure I could generate by blowing on the Pressure Gauge here and wasn't able to do more than about 3 PSI, so you may be right about needing a BETTER Needle&Seat Assembly. Can get the proper Needle&Seat for a Model WW (which is the two-barrel version of the WA-3) from Walker Products for under $20.00 plus shipping.
As was mentioned earlier, Lorrie's Engine is presently out in the open, and when driving, it doesn't give off much heat.
When Lorrie decides to run, that's how her starts are too. Just the barest touch of the Start Switch and she leaps to life with less than a full revolution of the Crank.
GREAT idea. Will see if a Fuel Pressure Gauge can be acquired.
Have NEVER seen Gas Vapor coming out of the WA-3.
Am convinced that what is happening is a "wet" condition in the morning, but have never had a problem with Lorrie restarting after 20-30 minutes.
Is your Needle&Seat Assembly able to hold 12 to 15 PSI?

The problem with Lorrie is not "hot days". The problem with Lorrie is "cold mornings".
What path would the fuel take to get into the Intake Manifold? Through the Main Jet? Through the Accelerator Pump?
"Economizer Body"? What got eaten away by the Berryman's ChemDip was a little assembly of Tubes and Vanes that were cast in the Venturi. Not removable or replaceable.
Pretty slick. And hadn't thought about "oiling the Gasket". Will have to try that the next time that the WA-3 is taken apart.

So it may be that the WA3's Needle&Seat may be the culprit. A Fuel Pressure Gauge MIGHT be in order.

But the next thing that has to be done is to determine for sure that the problem is the Carburetor. Will be able to do that tomorrow morning when we try to start the Engine with the temperature in the low 40s without having had any gasoline in the Carburetor to leak into the Intake Manifold overnight.

Will let you know how that goes.

Anyway thanks for the response and the GREAT information/suggestions.

Hope you are well.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

I'm thinking percolation or fuel needle valve.........

Percolation:

After shutdown, there's enough heat to percolate the fuel in the fuel bowl up and out into the intake manifold (might take awhile) so you're flooded in the morning.


Needle valve:

Seals enough during running, and short term that the fuel doesn't overflow.

But after a long shutdown, and with the residual pressure in fuel line (plus the spring in the mechanical fuel pump for one last pump of gas), you overflow the carb and flood the manifold.


You can isolate to either of these conditions if you can clamp off the fuel line before shutoff.

Then let engine runs until it dies due to lack of fuel.

Leave clamp on fuel line or disconnect from carb.


Next morning, remove clamp, attach hose, and try to start. May crank a bit due to lack of fuel in bowl(starting fluid), but there's no way it should be flooded out.


If it starts, you've narrowed down the possibilities

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes