Thanks Will do.

Tried to fire it up just a bit ago and I don't have any fire!! Argh! I had to quit for the night, so maybe tomorrow. The only change I made was to install my new distributor.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I swapped in my old distributor tonight and it fired right up. I ran it till it warmed up and broke in the cam. Verified all my push rods were spinning. But once I went to restart it again sounded funny and I could here it tapping louder than before. I removed the valve cover and found one of the lock nuts on my rockers had backed off and the ball stud had run itself way loose. I knew these ball studs and lock nuts were very close to not working. There just isn't enough threads sticking out for the lock nuts tighten up on. I ordered a set of longer ones from Smith Brothers and they should be here Friday.

I did not see any Antifeeze leaks and the only oil leak I see is on my copper line for my oil pressure gauge. So once the new rocker studs are in I'll runs the valves again, hot and set the timing again. Then it will be time for a ride around the neighborhood.

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Woohoo!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

ooh... ready for a testin session at mason Dixon when the weather gets nice again!


good work!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

SOOOO close,congrats,keep us updated.Guzzi Mark

After running the engine last night again, I went out this morning and did find an anti-freeze puddle, which appears to be coming from the new water pump somewhere. So I need to fix that. The engine sounds fine but I do have an issue with my oil pressure.

I hate to post things when there is a possibility that I may have done something dumb; But then again that is how I learn and may help others. So here goes.

I had yet to slow my idle down much from when I broke in the cam. But last evening when I had it warmed up I slowed the idle down and my oil pressure immediately dropped off. When I slow it down to 1000 RPM it drops off to 20-25 pounds! If I speed things up it goes up to 35# @ 1200-1300 RPM, and by 1800 RPM it's at 58-60#. The truth of the matter this engine isn't going to idle down at 1000 RPM anyway, so do I panic or not panic? When the engine is cold pressure is up at 58# even at lower RPM's.

I'm guessing bearing clearances are too loose? I plasti-gauged them at .025 on rods and mains. So is that to loose for a race motor? Should I be worried? Oil is currently 10W30. Should I try 20W50.

One other thing I did do was move my oil pressure gauge line off the oil pump and moved it back to the pad on the main oil galley. That wouldn't be affecting my gauge readings would it?

Thanks,
Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

that oil pressure sounds fine to me.. same thing on ruster...


I would not panic.. remember at idle the engine is not making hardly any power or torque so lower pressures are enough th keep the bearings off the crank journal surface.

I would locate that antifreeze leak and solve that... are you using a stock thermostat housing or a different modified one..


check at the bottom of it as sometimes when the thermostat housing leaks quit will look like Its coming from the water pump when it is not.


best of luck, and keep on slantin.



Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Ok Greg, that makes me feel better. Are you running 10W 30?

Stock thermostat housing. But I think I got the leak fixed. I ran it up to temp again, and drove it just around the development (Punched it once only to 4000 RPM, because the roads were wet) and brought it back in and can't see a leak.

My other engine set there with a a rock solid 48-50# and never moved. That is what had me worried.

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I believe I am running 5w30.

Are you tapping to oil pressure in the same spot on this engine as you were with the last one?

Did you do anything different in the oiling system in this engine - Passages / pump / rods / crank than the last one??

If you took a die grinder and massaged all those oil passages on this block / pump / crank combo you will see less pressure at idle because the oil has less resistance around the larger orifices and rounded / smoothed corners.




Dont worry,
just drag race.

when it blows up fix it then.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

No, I moved the pressure gauge tap back to the pad on the main oil galley. The other engine was right at the pump.
That is exactly what I did, and I have one of Doc's massaged oil pumps also.

Thanks Greg!!

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I think we solved your dilemma. You will get different readings with those aforementioned changes.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Now that you got a couple heat cycles tru it,I would retorque the head and go around and tighten up all your fastners.Thats just how I do it.I think your oil pressure is fine.Guzzi Mark

X10 on ok with pressure. I've seen Max Wedge cars with 10# at idle hot and run like a scared cat.As long as the pressure increases with rpm such as yours thats good.
OLD SCHOOL SAYING "BUILD IT LOOSE, IT WILL TAKE THE REVS" !!

I agree. Good oil P all around. 0.0025" clearances are on the high side for a forged crank motor, but you should be fine. I have not gone past 0.002" on mine and most other fast guys have settled on that number from my surveys.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988