My 74 states on the stock sticker to run it a zero degrees initial @ 750 rpm and it's got the same type electronic distributor, orange box, etc. When I got the car all it would do was ping. It was horribly gutless, no longer......

Don't let that Factory manual fool you. I run 10 degrees initial since my recurve provides a lot of advance (52 degrees total). Haven't had it ping in years.....

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Here is a link to allpar.com on electrical system. http://www.allpar.com/fix/electrical/index.html
Lots of good info on here.

Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

Hey All,
Friday Evening Update:

Went out at about 4:36 p.m. and hooked up the Timing Light's Red Clip to the Starter's Stud where the "+" Cable from the Battery is fastened.

Had to put it there because the Wires on the Timing Light were not long enough to reach clear back to the Battery.

Hooked the Black Clip to a Ground on the Engine.

Put the Sensor Cable on the Number 1 Spark Plug Wire.

Lowered the Timing Gun down to the ground past the Distributor.

Hooked up the Actron Volt/Tach/Dwell Meter.

Removed the Vacuum Advance Hose from the Carburetor and capped the Vacuum Source Tube.

Loosened the Distributor Hold Down Bolt.

Turned on the Run Switch, activated the Start Switch.

Lorrie's MIGHTY 225 Slant Six Engine sprang to life.

While the Engine was warming up, got under the front end and put the Timing Light on the Damper.

A little more than 1/2" = 5 degrees.

When the Engine was at 160 degrees on the Temperature Gauge, shined the Timing Light on Damper.

The Timing Mark was about 1/2" past the TDC mark on the Timing Tab which is 5 degrees ATDC on the Timing Tab.

Turned the Engine off, and rotated the Distributor CounterClockwise.

Restarted the Engine.

Shined the Timing Light on the Damper. The Timing mark was NOW at 1/2" (5 degrees) BTDC.

Shut the Engine off.

Tightened the Distributor Hold Down Bolt.

Touched the Start Switch, and the Engine instantly came to life.

Shined the Timing Light on the Damper and the Timing Mark hadn't moved.

Called it good.

Adjusted the Idle Mixture Screw to best idle.

Set the Hot Engine Idle Speed to 600 RPM.

Set the Fast Idle to 1,000 RPM.

Pulled the Cap off of the Carburetor Vacuum Source and hooked up the Vacuum Hose to the Distributor.

The Actron said was the Voltage to the Battery was 13.8 Volts.

Ammeter was showing 27 Amps at 600 RPM.

Engine is turbine smooth, and sounds good.

Turned off the Engine, unhooked the Timing Light, unhooked the Actron Meter and came into the house.

Will see if Lorrie will start in the morning.

Will let you know what happens.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Ted,
Did the timing on Lorrie this evening. Set the Initial Advance at 5 degrees BTDC. See the Friday Evening Update.
We'll see how Lorrie like 5 degrees BTDC. It's EASY to do the timing.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Mr. XJH,
Looked at the link. You're right! Am going to have to read it VERY carefully.

Thanks for the response.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

26 amps at idle? If its the original chrysler alt I'd be very suspicious of that ammeter. I am yet to meet a stock chrysler alt that can do 26 amps at idle speed. Even if its correct, what's using 26 amps? I assume the battery is charged? I know the old if it ain't broke don't fix it but I'd keep an eye on that and your voltage, always carry a wrench to disconnect the battery if it decides to cook it self, those wires are " hot" all the time and there has been many cases of melted looms and fires due to faulty ammeters..... I'm not saying it WILL happen, but just be aware. Stewart Warner's are good instruments, but if it gets a high resistance internally, it gets hot, remember all your power usage travels thru that gage , the hotter it gets, the more resistance, then even more heat till something melts or burns thru... That's what happens if they go, BUT IF everything is good it ok.
Pertronix stuff has a good rep, if the dissy is not worn in the bushings, hopefully when you look at it it will just need a spring . For $250 to do a front end sounds like a deal to me, make sure you get a wheel alignment as well. I wouldn't be worried about breaking anything in that drivetrain, top loader and 9" rear..... That's automotive art! You wouldn't believe what they take.... My 64 Futura could tell you! Same engine, top loader and 9" for 23 years, a couple of clutches however and a lot of 7000 rpm jaunts! It's ready for a bit of lovin now....it will be my next project after my 63 valiant wagon and the engine in my folks 66, always something to do! Enjoy Lorrie she's happy now!

Well 5 degree before TDC is better than 5 degrees after!
Your not going to burn any rubber at 5 degrees, but at least your going the right way!

No more fuses in the start/run circuit!

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

NOPE

This way the ammeter is showing current that's coming out of the alternator; not current to/from the battery.

Alternator and Fuse Panel should be on same side (to ammeter)

Only battery should be on from ammeter side.

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Hey Steve,
Actually, it was about 27 Amps at idle.
It was recently rebuilt by Smith Auto Electric. They seem to know what they're doing, and their shop is full (eight bays) all the time, with cars waiting in the parking lot. And Wesley Smith is one of the NICEST people in the car world in this area.
Is there a way to do an independent measurement of THAT value? All I have is a RadioShack Multimeter that has a 10 Amp Maximum Measurement.
That reading is with just the Engine running. When the Headlights and Brights are turned on the Ammeter goes to about 32 Amps at idle.
This is questionable. The NAPA Legend 75 Battery is only a couple of weeks old, and during that time, all that has happened is that Lorrie's MIGHTY 225 Slant Six Engine has been cranked, and cranked, all to no avail until yesterday morning when after the installation of a NEW NAPA Echlin IC24 Ignition Coil, and the adjustment of the Reluctor Gap from 0.014 to 0.008 was done. Then the Engine finally deigned to run. It could be that even though the Multimeter showed the Battery had 12.54 Volts, that it was somewhat discharged. And it hasn't been run all that much since then. Just warmed up a couple of times and the timing set last evening.
There is a tool kit in the Storage area of Lorrie's Engine Cabinetry
Well, Lorrie doesn't have a "loom" as such. Everything is wired direct, and all the wires are API2C Compliant. Let me explain THAT: I used to be the public relations/advertising/TV producer for a large Marine Crane manufacturer, and one of the perks of the job was access to stuff that was used in building the Crane. API is the American Petroleum Institute, and 2C is the Crane section of their regulations. And the wiring in Lorrie is the done with the Wire specified in the 2C section of the API regulations. Heavy duty stuff.
Well, would like to understand MORE about this.
Which we don't want to EVER happen.
Have decided that Lorrie is going to get a 2-5/8" Stewart Warner Voltmeter which will be installed just to the right of the Stewart Warner Tachometer. That is going to happen probably next month. And when we get ready to wire that into the circuitry, will be asking for help getting everything done right. OK?
Well, Ms. American's Distributor is messed up. Was doing some work on it a month or so ago, and set the Initial Timing at 8 degrees BTDC at the Damper (4 degrees BTDC at the Distributor per the FSM), and when we got to checking the Centrifugal Advance Curve, found that it was all in at 34 degrees BTDC at but 1,400 RPM. Apparently the Springs in the Centrifugal Advance Mechanism are either broken, loose, missing, or lost their tension.
Chassis Services has always been reasonable with me. And am not sure that the $250.00 includes an alignment.
It's a BorgWarner T85 with Overdrive. I happen to KNOW that the Rear Bearing is loosey goosey, though the Seal doesn't leak. Also the Pilot Bearing in the Flywheel is way out of tolerance and sometimes when backing up, it goes into a "shudder". BUT, have not the funds, or facility to do anything about all that. My solution to all that is to drive the old Gal REALLY smooth and gentle.
Put in a NEW Hayes Clutch, and Driven Disk when the Engine was rebuilt in 1989, and have had to put two Driven Disks in the old Gal since then. The Springs in the Driven Disks have broken in both instances. And must say that Ms. American's Valves float before getting to 6,000 RPM. But she seldom sees 4,000 RPM now.
Same here. BUT, have been neglecting everything else around here, and NEED to pull off of the automotive stuff and do some maintenance on the Craftsman Riding Lawn Tractor, and some things around the house.
Well, from what Ted is saying we are still facing some electrical issues. Am going to be doing my homework on that and see if we can't get Lorrie to where she is COMPLETELY as she SHOULD be to be maximally reliable again.

Anyway, it a bit cool(56 degrees) out this morning. Am going to go see if Lorrie will start without Start Fluid. If she starts, will be going for a bit of a test drive to see how she deals with 5 degrees BTDC Initial Timing.

Will let you know how things go.

Thanks for the response. Be well.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Saturday Morning Update:

Temperature is 56 degrees.

Went out and gave Lorrie's Accelerator a single pump to set the Choke.

Turned on the Run Switch.

Activated the Start Switch.

LORRIE STARTED RIGHT UP!

Took Lorrie for a test drive. Went North to the High School, turned around in the parking lot and came back home.

Oil Pressure is 50 PSI at idle, 60 at speed.
Water Temperature is steady at 160 degrees.
Ammeter showed 10 - 12 Amps.
Brakes work good.
Transmission shifts good.
Horn is LOUD.
Windshield Wipers are two speed.
Headlights and Brights work, with the Bright Light Indicator on the Dash working.
Fuel Gauge works.
Speedometer is operative.
Tachometer is inoperative.

Now, if Lorrie will just not find something else to go wrong, she is well on her way to regaining my trust.

Have to wait and see.
What will be will be.
Time will tell.
Be well.
JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Ted,
Right.
Lorrie has NEVER been a rubber burner! Besides, I am not THAT kind of driver.
Alright, let's get serious about this. Have done some research and have found these spiffy little Circuit Breakers. There are three kinds: Self-Resetting, Modified Self-Resetting, and Manual Resetting. The have an Input Stud, and Output Stud and the Manual Resetting type have a Push Button with which to do the resetting. They come in 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50 Amp capacities. Would that course of action be first class?

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Mr. E,
(Sigh)...
To be unambiguous about this, permit me to delineate the circuitry as it presently stands:

FROM the "+" Post of the Battery, the Battery Cable goes TO the Stud on the Starter.

A Wire FROM the Stud on the Starter goes TO the Fuse Panel Common. This supplies 12 Volts to all the Fuses.

The Electricity goes FROM the Fuse Panel Common, through the Fuses TO wherever it goes (Start Switch - Run Switch - Fuel Gauge Switch - Windshield Wiper Switch - Horn Switch - Head Lights Switch - Bright Lights Switch - Brake Light Switch - Turn Signal Switch - and Flasher Switch).

The Wire FROM the BATT Terminal of the Alternator goes TO the Input of the Ammeter.

The Output FROM the Ammeter goes TO the Fuse Panel Common.

You are saying that THAT is NOT the way it should be.


Permit me to delineate the circuitry to see if I understand the RIGHT way that YOU say it SHOULD be.

FROM the "+" Post of the Battery, the Battery Cable goes TO the Stud on the Starter.

A Wire FROM the Stud on the Starter goes TO the Fuse Panel Common.

The Electricity goes FROM the Fuse Panel Common, through the Fuses TO wherever it goes (Start Switch - Run Switch - Fuel Gauge Switch - Windshield Wiper Switch - Horn Switch - Head Lights Switch - Bright Lights Switch - Brake Light Switch - Turn Signal Switch - and Flasher Switch).

The Wire FROM the BATT Terminal of the Alternator should go TO the Input of the Ammeter, as should a wire FROM the Fuse Panel Common.

The Output of the Ammeter should go TO the "+" of the Battery.

Would THIS be correct?

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hi J.C.,

I use the 40 amp self resetting. Has served me well. Others might prefer the fuse link but I like the way the circuit breakers work. Just my 2 cents. Also your breaker size is determined by your wire size. I have a number 8 going directly from the battery to the amp meter with the breaker in between near the battery. Only time it ever tripped was when I accidently grounded a wire while putting my dash back together. (Yep, I forgot to remove the battery cable.) In any event happy to hear Lorrie is back to life. Regards, Mark

_________________
If only I had the time to do what I want to do instead of what I have to do!

Hey Mark,
Have done some research on this, and have found that there are Type l, Type ll, and Type lll Circuit Breakers. Type l is self-resetting. Type ll is modified self-resetting, and Type lll are manually reset. If it is decided to go to Circuit Breakers, am leaning toward Type lll.
Had that happen once upon a time. Will never do THAT again.
Oh, me too!

I don't know how to tell you, but Lorrie just "feels" RIGHT. She is so unassuming. Does what she does quite off-handedly, as if it's no big deal.

Like this morning. There were no histrionics.

I asked her to start. She just went "OK", and started! There was no fuss or bother. It was as if she HADN'T gone through all that she has been through in the past four years. She started like she used to, better in fact.

She actually felt EAGER and HAPPY to comply!

Am going to be getting her insurance reinstated on Monday.

BUT am going to cancel Ms. American's Insurance while I'm at the Insurance Office, as she is unsafe to drive with her Lower Ball Joints being loosey goosey.

Once Lorrie is insured, am going to put her Engine Cabinetry back in, and will just have to trust that she isn't going to be conjuring up some OTHER nefarious gremlin with which to beset me.

Have some more stuff that needs to be done. Am maybe going to be getting the Start/Run/Charge Systems off of Fuses, and onto Circuit Breakers.

AND, may be going to change the Ammeter Circuitry. As it is now, the Ammeter is indicating the Amps coming FROM the Alternator instead of the Amps going TO the Battery.

And probably next month, will be adding a Voltmeter to her Dash/Instrument Panel.

Anyway, thanks for the response and congratulations.

It's now time to continue onward through the fog!

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

primary feed goes to fuse panel.

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes