The thread title says it all: I'm trying to get the center link off to remove the oil pan, and the idler arm and center link don't want to separate. Been trying to hammer a pickle fork in there for what seems like half an hour with no luck. Are there any tricks that can make separating them easier?

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

A gear puller might work a bit better, and soaking it in some PB blaster might help as well...a little heat on the centerlink near the idler stud can help loosen up it's grip a bit, but not too much that you melt the rubber boot on the joint.

Have had some pretty bad linkage assemblies in the past to pull apart it's not fun...especially the Pre-72 set up because of how the idler and pitman arm attach to the link...

Good Luck.

-D.idiot

Thanks. I'd removed the rubber boot hoping to get more room to put the pickle fork in there. I will see if I can get a gear puller on there; I had tried a different sort of puller and couldn't get it on the connection.

I'm wondering if a can of Freeze-off would work as well as a torch?

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

It's been a long time since I did mine but I recall using a tie-rod end puller.

that's what I have done.... works great!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I just got mine loose last night. It took some PB Blaster, a tie-rod puller, socket, 19" worth of 3/8"-drive extensions, and a 3/8" breaker bar. Maybe an off color word or two getting the rig in place ...

Now, about getting the idler out of the socket ('64 Valiant) ... The nut is off, but I don't have any puller that will get in there.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

X2 on tie rod puller. Get a good strain on connection with puller, and smack drag or center link with hammer, and it should pop apart.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

It's moving now that I put some heat to it. Found that the rubber bushings on the tie rod ends melt before they burn, too. Not off yet, but it's moved a half inch and now I'm waiting for it to cool down to get a press type puller on it. Thanks to all who responded!

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Now, it turns out all that banging broke the joint at the end of the idler arm, instead of separating it from the center link! Idler arm has to come off.

It looks like the best way to get the idler arm off would be to put a puller on it and push it out of the K-member, but how the heck is one supposed to get a puller in there with the engine still in the car? It's got that tapered idler with the stud pointing up, and the oil pump in the way!

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Ended up cutting the rubber boot out, and getting the idler arm out with a pickle fork. This let me finally get a puller on the center link and pop the other end of the idler out. Oil pan is now off - finally.

_________________
"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair