So this morning I ran out of gas in a pretty unfortunate place on my way to work. Since I got the car the gauge has not properly showing the gas level. It would go to about 7/8 full when i got the car filled and it would show empty when the take got to around half full. Sometimes I would start the car and it would be way past the E. It almost always moves as as I drive to a slightly more full position.

I haven't been able to test the resistance in the sending unit itself when the tank is full to see if it's working properly. But since I intend to drop the tank If I need to replace the sending unit, I don't want to fill it up.

I have a host of electrical issues in the dash.
Radio lights never work
Speedo and gauge lights sometimes work, but usually don't
Temp gauge worked once, the first time the speedo lights did actually
Recently the left turn signal indicator on the dash will sometimes not work. (i hear the rely clicking so i assume the lights work)

I am hoping that these electrical issues are not tied to my fuel gauge readings since that is what I want to take care of first. So does this sound like a simple swap of the sender assembly will solve my issue? I know I can test the gauge with some hot wiring but I couldn't get a sure idea on how to from other posts.

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1978 4 door Dodge Aspen, Super Six

Check the ground strap attached to the sending unit.....

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74 Dart Swinger, supersixed.

Seems like your instrument cluster ground is intermittent. Sometimes just tightening the screws that mount the cluster can help, but you really should have a dedicated ground wire.

It would help if we knew what car you're having problems with. Any chance you have a factory service manual (NOT Chilton's)?

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

I have a 1978 Dodge Aspen, with the super six, Carter BBD and a 904. It has no AC, no power locks or windows.

The factory manual is on it's way. I have the Haynes manual but, man, that thing is just one big head ache. I have been meaning to get the dash apart. I have to replace the brake hoses going to my front calipers this weekend but once that's done I can take apart the inside.

Is it likely I need to install a dedicated ground myself?

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1978 4 door Dodge Aspen, Super Six

I recieved my electrical FSM last week and I want to start digging into the electrical issues under the dash. Is there any chapter in the manuals that instructs how to remove the dash panels? I have both manuals.

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1978 4 door Dodge Aspen, Super Six

99% of electrical issues with these old A Bodies are due to corroded connections, bad grounds, and hacked up factory harness. Take your time replace all brass connectors including those in bulkhead connector, bad or hacked up conductors, replace glass tube fuse holder with new stile fuse holder, and clean & repair all connections on gage circuit board. Your car will become very reliable when done.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I thought Aspens were F bodies. Not trying to argue semantics, I just would like to know what body refers to mine. The factory manual shows it as "N".

I'm not sure how I can replace some of the larger connectors under the dash, do they make generic products for things like that? I would love to get all these issues ironed out, I just don't want to pull every random screw out until the panels fall out.

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1978 4 door Dodge Aspen, Super Six

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... uge#345474 Page 8-81 in Electrical manual for picuture. There is rubber hose at fuel pump.So that means rusty fuel line grounded to rusty body with rusty screws. Make a new ground.

Nicholas,Division 8 (Electrical Manual) page 8-90 has the exploded view of the dash panels for disassembly for H and N models (Chrysler's in house codes for parts look up in that catalog H= Volare and N=Aspen).

They are "platform" named "F-body" at that level (you will get a laugh out of the "B" body guys when you tell a Charger guy he's got an "X".)

The problem the old A body guys forget is mopar tryed to improve things on the fly that weren't so 'great' with the A-body after 1976, so instead of the "cheap" 3-4 groups of 8-10 connectors at the firewall, you have one single 40 pin heavy duty unitized and weatherized 'plug' at that location...

I would read the section 8-90 and then some tonight before bedtime, pick it up again when home from work and then try to tackle the dashboard (another "improvement" -not so much over the simpler A-body setup.)

Good Luck,

-D.Idiot

Thanks for directing me in the right section, it was right in front of me the whole time. This morning I finished pulling the last of the panels off my dash. I'm cleaning all the connections I can now.

One thing I noticed is that in the directions for lowering the steering shaft on page 8-85 it says;

(3)Remove nut attaching horn ground strap to stud on instrument panel.
(4)Remove horn ground strap from strap from stud.

I don't see that ground strap anywhere. Could this be the problem? My horn hasn't worked since I got the car either. I can't even tell how to install a new one since there is no sign of it.

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1978 4 door Dodge Aspen, Super Six

I'm not familiar with your car, but it sure sounds like you're in the right ballpark! A strap or wire from the metal part of the instrument cluster to the steering column should properly ground the cluster. I can't see how the column wouldn't be grounded.

When you install the new ground strap, be sure the attaching points and hardware are rust and corrosion free. Use a bit of white lithium grease on those parts to keep air and moisture from causing corrosion.

Congrats on your find in the manual!

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Thanks. I think I have everything I need to get this all working, I just still don't really know where to connect it on the instrument cluster. Take a look at the pictures below which are the back of the cluster and circuit board. Nothing screams "attach ground strap here" to me.





About the green circles, If you look carefully you can see how the bulb that is installed doesn't line up with the high beam indicator window in the instrument cluster. Can anyone tell me why this is? The other empty bulb slots go to "GATE OPEN", "CHECK EGR" and a blacked out slot on the panel, so those are not needed. The high beam indicator does faintly lights up when I turn them on. The bulb slot that does line up with the high beam window doesn't share a ground with the other bulbs on the board. This makes me very curious!

EDIT: Just found the wiring diagram for the board. Looks like it's all connected correctly, still odd how the bulb doesn't line up though.

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1978 4 door Dodge Aspen, Super Six

Chassis-body service manual.Page 19-29 shows clip {W shaped sheet metal} Steering column ground. If yours is missing use a ground wire on one of the studs.

page 8-277 shows info for printed ciruit board. no seperate ground wire.

Thanks for the direction, I'll take a look at that right when I get home. I remember finding broken clips when lowering the cloumn.
So the wire doesn't connect to the panel itself? I'm thinking it connects somwhere in the ignition. While diagnosing my horn issue it told me to see if the BRAKE light lit up when the key was turned. It didn't, signifying a lack of ground.

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1978 4 door Dodge Aspen, Super Six