I found these articles describing how to completely disassemble an A-body front suspension, including torsion bar removal, upper and lower control arm bushing removal and installation, strut rod bushings, etc. That should cover the search terms for people searching the forum in the future.

http://www.moparmax.com/tech/2011/vi_10 ... ips-1.html

http://www.moparmax.com/tech/2011/vi_11 ... ips-1.html

As much detail as these articles have, I'm still left with a small question regarding torsion bar removal. I understand that you have to remove the locking rings in the back and then hammer the torsion bars aft to dislodge them from the front hex fittings. My question is whether the torsion bars are then supposed to slide all the way aft through the subframe mount, or whether you just go aft enough to clear the front mount on the LCA and then slide them out to the front.

I'm really hoping it's the latter. We had to lower the floor under the driver's seat in the Dart, in order to gain enough headroom to pass race tech. It's kind of in the way if the torsion bars have to slide all the way out through the back.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

We never remove the bar from the vehicle... on most rebuilds.
Just knock the bar back enough to get it out of the LCR "socket" then let them hang there.
DD

Sorry, I should have specified. I'm replacing them with larger bars.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

The bars will come out thru the front of the trans cross-member sockets but the K-frame may prevent you from pulling the bars all the way out, in the forward direction.
Are you also planning to remove the K?
DD

Your article recommends using a "pickle fork". I prefer this type of puller which works quite well and is less likely to damage suspension components:



And here's a PIC of my own, homemade T-Bar puller. Simple, but very effective:

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

I have pulled them out the back myself. I have never had to use a puller, but they have all slid out by hand after releasing ALL of the tension of the front suspension (back off adjuster all the way and maybe pop loose U or L ball joint or UCA). I guess I have hit the front of the LCA stud with a hammer to pop them loose once or twice.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The engine is still in the car, so I'm not removing the K-member. We'll just see how it goes, I guess. I may have to cut a hole in the front of my driver's seat tub, but that's not a big deal.

Thanks for the tips, everyone. Luckily, we do have access to a torsion bar puller. These should be the original bars from '64, so I assumed it would be necessary. My plan at this point is to leave the UCAs attached, as we've already replaced the bushings during the brake upgrade. All I need to replace now are the LCA bushings, strut rod bushings, torsion bars, and dust covers.

I've also got a spare set of LCAs that I'm going to reinforce beforehand with some 1/8" plate and install with the new hardware. Which leads me to my next question. My spare LCAs already have pivot pins and T-bar hex sockets installed, but the bushings are shot. That article suggests using a hydraulic press to remove the pivot pins. Where exactly should I be pressing, straight through the hex socket? Or should I remove the hex socket first, and if necessary, how do I do that?

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Okay, after further examination, it appears that the hex socket does not come off. I was confused by the pictures in that article, because they never showed the side of the LCA where that fitting is after removing the bushings. In the second picture on this page, through the hole where the LCA bushing goes, you can just barely see the side of the hex-shaped hole on the other side.

Looking through from the torsion bar side, I can see the rubber bushing, so I assume this face with the "M" stamp is the back side of the pivot pin.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Yep, socket does not detach from the LCA. That stamped M is the backside of the pivot pin.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

So... any tips for removal of the pivot pin without a hydraulic press? I'll be able to use a press at my friend's shop, but I'm trying to get these LCAs ready before we all get there in order to save time. I have applied heat with a torch and wailed on the backside with a center punch and a big hammer, to no avail.

I have new pivot pins, so I'm not against destroying these to get them out.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

You may be able to rig up a makeshift press using the bottle jack in the engine crane in the back ground of your pic.
Be careful. Put a piece of tubing over the pivot pin side and press with bottle jack from other side.Obviously both ends of rig need to be butted against solid immovable objects.
Brendan

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1963 AP5 Valiant 225 PB 904 Stock except extractors & 2 1/4 inch exhaust.


1962 S series valiant 225 PB auto. factory every thing. Full restoration job.
Currently on hold till AP5 is on the road.

Good suggestion on the bottle jack. I ended up just waiting a day and using my friend's arbor press, though. Those rubber bushings really do not like to come out. After removing the pin and rubber, I also had to weld a washer inside the outer sleeve in order to press the sleeves out of the LCAs. Luckily, the poly bushings went in much easier.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

I bought this nifty tool to remove my LCA pivots. I bought their kit that includes this tool, the t-bar remover, UCA socket, and UCA bushing installer/remover. Well worth the money since I'm doing a full front suspension rebuild. Of course, that's a personal decision. Good luck

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My Dart
GO VOLS!
It's not rocket science, we're just splitting atoms.

Here is some more handy suspension tools.
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/frsuto.html

Brendan

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1963 AP5 Valiant 225 PB 904 Stock except extractors & 2 1/4 inch exhaust.


1962 S series valiant 225 PB auto. factory every thing. Full restoration job.
Currently on hold till AP5 is on the road.