is anyone familiar with the replacement of timing chain and gear set?
i know i will need: timing chain, gear set, cover gasket, and gear puller, but have never done this yet.

Yes, however you should get a factory engine manual for your car. It will describe the steps in order.

It is not to fun while the engine is in the car, but many have done it. You need to pull the radiator for starters.....

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

thank you. i have the two shop manuals for 1975 dodge plymoth chrysler in the mail. is there an owners manual that you suggest? i had three differrent ones but have lost them. had a problem with ignition interlock and wasnt even listed until i got the third owners manual.

No, not an owners manual.....the engine rebuild manual will have the process in one of the chapters. The MOPAR shop manuals are very good.

You might do a search on ALLPAR.com while your waiting for them to arrive. You can do searches (select Tech then Repairs) on the site for info......such as http://www.allpar.com/forums/topic/1227 ... l-slant-6/

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The procedure is in the 1975 Shop manual in Division 9 (Engine group).

Some suggestions not including the coolant recovery when you remove the radiator, also a couple of the bolts from the cover to the block do pass into the coolant jacket of the engine, so be prepared for some more fun in keeping it out of the oil pan...

You will need a harmonic balancer puller (if on the cheap Harbor freight one works good- have pulled over 15 dampers with mine-junkyard or not and haven't broken it yet).

You'll need a 1/2" socket for the timing cover (inlcuding the 4 bolts along the front bottom that hook to the oil pan), and a 5/8" socket for the timing chain bolt...gear will come off with a little motivation. If replacing the crank gear you will need a good gear puller (sometimes a bearing puller will work just as good if the correct size). A torch to heat up the gear will make it slide off easier (and also heating up the new gear will allow you to slide it on by hand(glove) without the use of a hammer (which will destroy the thrust bearing in the engine.

A set of bolts for the oil pan side that are 1/2" longer than the stock ones you took out and washers will make life a lot easier when reinstalling the new cover oil pan gasket. FYI.

Last specialty item will be to secure a long bolt and some washer 3/4" NF, so you can reinstall your harmonic balancer.

I will also suggest getting the Victor Reinz Timing cover gasket set, since it comes with the timing cover gasket and the special front oil pan gasket (the Felpro version only has the cover gasket- the oil pan part comes in the oil pan gasket set...)

Good luck with your adventure.

-D.Idiot

thank you duster
these tid bits are all new to me and im sure will help greatly in how i set up. will make sure to keep these points in mind once i get my manuals and feel comfortable enough to not miss stuff(like the oil pan gasket).

someone tell me what i am doing wrong.

i replaced timing chain and both sprockets but spent half the day trying to get the cover back on. it seems that the oil pan gasket is to thick for me to compress enough to get the cover on the fitting pegs to line it up properly with bolt holes.

can i loosen the oil pan to give myself slack fit the cover on and then tighten the oil pan working from the back forward?

can i loosen the oil pan to give myself slack fit the cover on and then tighten the oil pan working from the back forward?

Yes that's the way.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

cool!

thank u for the affirmation; im making it up as i go at this point.

I just plunk the $1.22 at Lowes, if your oil pan gasket is old/crunchy and toast if you loosen it you may not get it to seal right...if you use the trick above you have the extra reach to bolt it up then tighten it down and slip
it into place (Doc Dodge Timing cover trick...)

-D.idiot

Just don't expect the pan gasket to seal at all.

It's possible to do timing cover without dropping the pan, but really difficult. I believe the book procedure is to drop the pan (if you want to do the pan then I'd think real hard about pulling the engine out & using a stand- the pan is MUCH easier when the eng is flipped over)

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

In a 1967-1976 A-body there's a fair amount of room to do the work...it gets better once the radiator is removed. (I do it somewhat often when changing the bushing in the timing chain gear if I need to alter my original degree procedure for a little more torque.)

-D.Idiot

so put the 4 1/2 inch longer bolts through the oil pan gasket and use them to winch it down enough to slip it over the fitting pegs?

if i cant get this to work i do have the other three seals for the oil pan but did not know if this was possible with my car; as now a days you have to lift the engine on most cars. it seemed to me that it is do able on this 75. however would like to avoid it right this moment.the book makes no mention of needing to do this for timing chain replacement or of the 1/2 inch bolts.

thank u for the help it really saves time to not have to reinvent the wheel.

you dont happen to have the thread size and the bolt length?

it would save me a couple trips to my friends garage and back to town.

left books with car like a smart person.

thank you duster the four bolts really helped. i had to damage one of the guide peg holes in the cover but the seal is good.