Hey guys, need help with this one.

74 Dart Custom: Was running. Now will run as long as key is in the start(turn starter) position. As soon as you release key, stops running.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Dave

Check your resister then suspect ign switch.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yep, Ballast Resistor first since it's a dual with a "start" and a "run" set of tabs...After that it's the switch...

The only other issue might be the seat belt interlock module if car is so equipped under the hood...(bypass it.)

-D.Idiot

Ok, I don't know if it is equipped with the seat belt sensor. Not sure what it looks like. Do you have a pic?

Other than that, I've replaced the ignition switch, starter relay, ballast resistor, ignition module and swapped starters just for good measure.

Alright, have a pic of the seat belt module, but where is it located on the car?

I really appreciate all your help by the way. This one has me befuddled.

On the driver's side wheel well, near the firewall...i.e. if you are bent over the driver's side fender, and looking at the windshield washer fluid reservoir it will be on the right near the firewall.

Regardless it needs to be bypassed, if it malfunctions the car will crank but not start among other issues (i.e. dies while driving...)

-D.Idiot

D, I will check it out in the morning. What your describing is exactly what is happening. I'll let you know.

Still a no go. The mystery yet unfolds.

Just because they are new, doesn't mean parts are good! I would check the ballast resistor.
Unplug all of its connectors, and look for different resistance readings on each side. 1.5 & .5 Ohms comes to mind, but this ol' mind isn't always dependable.

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

I hear ya. Wouldn't be the first time I got bad new parts...most of it electrical.

Regarding that, could I take the working 1966 Dart distributor which I converted to the Pertronix system, and put it in the 1974 Dart? Would give mean excuse to upgrade the 66 system.

I suggest that he wires from the Run position from the ignition switch, may be attached incorrect. With the switch turned to the normal Run position, check which wires have power. The coil and ballast resistor should both be fed by a live wire when the switch is in that position.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Yes you can do it, but the '74 has lots of wiring that would need to be traced down and removed to make it happen...

That being said, I've done this to a few mopars to get them up and running (moveable), and also it's a good exercise in understanding the mopar ignition system.

The bypass will require finding the key "on"/power side of the ballast resistor and leaving it as is, pull the plug off the opposite side and making a jumper lead that goes from that side of the resistor to the positive side of the coil. Your distributor lead goes to the negative side of the coil. I would remove the plug off the EI module to keep it from being damaged if a short occurred.

If it doesn't run, it's the ignition switch.

-D.Idiot

Or the wiring to the switch- ie bulkhead connector.

My 75 had the seat belt interlock (for a few days before I ripped it out). As I recall it had the little metal box under the hood with the red "bypass" button & some kind of control module under the dash behind the instrument cluster. AFAIK the system would prevent starter engagement unless the driver "buckled up" or pressed the bypass button.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Ok, here is what we found out. On this model of 74 Dart Custom, there is a starter relay switch seperate from the starter relay. It is meant to keep voltage at 12v to the coil when the starter is engaged. After disconnecting this, we had no more problems with turning the motor over. We also found that the Accel coil we were using was a little low on ohms. Switched to a 3.0 ohms coil and all is well. The conclusion is that with still using the ballast resistor for some circuits, the Accel coil was an incorrect application. I believe that the combination of the bad starter realy switch voltage booster and a low ohm coil was the problem.

Thanks to everone for their help.