Yep, you got me good!

That was a ton of fun!

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

RicK ref the rear gears. I played around with 4:30s , 4:56s and 4:88s a few years ago and didnt see any appreciable change in the 1/8. Since then I just stayed with the 4:30. Too much effort for so little change.
Ron

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62 Val, 66 Dart, 16 Ram 2500 Mega

Thanks Ron, I will leave these in for a bit. I probably will leave them in until the fall race at Mason Dixon and see how they do.

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I got my new radiator and thermostat housing on Wednesday. As soon as it came I knew the thermostat housing was wrong. It was listed for a 64 & up 318/340...etc. So it has the wrong bolt spacing. Anyone need it? It costs $7.00 to send it back and I think it only cost $10.

So I ordered another one and will post a P/N once I am sure I got the right one.

The factory Mopar part # P4452025 listed in the other thread on here is no longer available at Summit or Jegs.

I also picked up a molded hose that I actually think will work with our stock upward pointing housing too. Will let you know shortly.

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I got my new Griffin 3" thick, Radiator installed in the car. Here is how I did mine. First off, I got the 24" X 19" size since my battery is still in the normal location. The 26" width will probably work also, although the battery would be close to the upper hose.



As you can see, I found a hose that should work right out of the box with the standard thermostat housing if you like that. It is PN D70786 from Advance Auto. (Upper hose for 1970 Bronco / 302) It is about 1" long for my setup with the 24" radiator, but should be a bolt in for the 26" wide set-up. It does have to have a some twist put on the hose but it works fine. I was changing out my thermostat housing to the straight one so I was cutting off the one end anyway.


I made these brackets for on the bottom of the radiator and drilled two holes through the lower radiator support for them to set in. That puts the height where I wanted it. A piece of rubber was glued to the bottom so it doesn't rattle.


New thermostat housing for later V-8 car works fine except you need to drill the mounting holes out to slant 6 size. Mine came from Summit ( Summit Racing Part Number: FSS-84909 ).


I had to move the fan to the front side of the radiator and I mounted it on two thin pieces of aluminum angle.


Upper hose worked great.


Made an aluminum filler panel to hold upper side of the radiator in place. It also keeps air from coming up and around the core.


The only thing I don't have is a automatic temperature switch to turn the fan on. My Mitsubishi set-up had it in the lower radiator tank. I will just run mine manually for the time being. I may put a switch in the head down the road.

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Rick, If you get the Water outlet that is stamped steel for 79 & newer Mopars you dont need to redrill..

Also I believe it's the same as a 2.2 Four cylinder.

Good to see you wont be loosing your cool any more.... that was annoying.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Nice work Rick.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Looking good!
Will

Excellent, Rick! Thanks for the water outlet and hose PNs too. I had not found that Bronco hose...

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

With the new radiator I have a 1 3/4" bottom outlet that is an odd ball for our Slant 6. So I forced my hose over that and I quickly saw it would be a nightmare to change in the car. So I went into my local Advance Auto and spent about 20 minutes in the hose department looking for a molded hose that would work. (I don't like flex hoses)
And I found a hose that works perfectly with my radiator set-up.

If you remember I have a Griffin universal 24" X 19" with a 1 3/4" outlet that is slightly turned toward the drivers side. I actually found plenty of 1 3/4" X 1 1/2" hoses. But one that looked about right. I brought it home and cut one of the 90"s off the 1 1/2" end and then trimmed 1" off of the 1 3/4" end and it fit like a glove.

The only thing is, they could not tell me what it fit!! I will find out and post back. Here is the picture and the part number.

Ok, I did a google search and according to Summit racing the hose is for a 1982-91 Camaro, 305 engine W/O AC (Lower hose)

Rick

This is the view from the top!

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Again, great work, Rick! I need to order up a set of the ones you found and check fitment on my new 64 Dart rad setup.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Just finished up putting something heavy in a wooden crate and sending it to Nebraska!!

I still think I have another .2-.3 in my car with some tuning yet this fall, which should put me in the 13.5-13.6 range. Then the winter should get fun!

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

great Rick!

best thing I have read about in your entire post!


ha ha.... you will be pleased.



what size valves/ cam/ compression are you aiming for?


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

You might say that "Mike knows what I want, and he knows what I need!"

I talked to him again Sunday, and basically I am going to be doing a head change, and bump in compression only, over the winter. I really want to see what my car does with my existing head compared to the "gold standard" that Mike does. Mike will choose the valve size / springs...etc. Basically he knows my cars specs and he will build me a head to do the job. He knows that I want to run a 12.99 on motor, and will build the head to do the job. My compression right now is at 10.8 and will likely go up to 11.5 or so. Again, he and I will discuss this when he is ready to make the final cut and CC the head.
My current measured lift is around .525/.515 lift & 250/243 Duration. The cam he is recommending is slightly larger but not a bunch. Maybe .550 lift and a little more duration. So I will likely just have him go ahead and order me the cam to go with the combo and I will have it on the shelf for the following year.

The truth of the matter is that he asked me if this was a race-only car? I told him that I did not plan it to go that route but primarily yes it is race only. Going fast is exciting. And if I ever really want to drive it very far on the road it will need some changes to be a "true" street car anyway.

My guess is that the weak link for the 2014 season will be a basically stock internal transmission with only a shift kit. I don't know how long that will last. Then maybe the next season will see the dawn of what I really want; A return to a 4-speed in the car.

More to come!

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

The 904 is not had to work on....

No worries..


Either Charles or I or someone else can build one that will work..

The one I can do would require only maybe a few goodies from A&A in terms of bands and clutches..

The rest is just a Deep pan/Filter extender, Accumalator blocker (which You can Make your self) and a Basic Seal KIt and Good Gaskets.


Less than$350 if you do the work your self.

The big hit is finding a Manual valvebody either forward or reverse pattern that you want.

I got a transgo TF-2 I think off the board here.. It modifies ma mopars one... I didnt have to build it though... It was built by the previous owner! (SCORE)


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack