Smartass that's funny.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

If you have a laptop, borescope cameras are not all that expensive for the USB models, and a good way to have a look around inside the cylinder for screws/debris/whatever and to see the shape of the piston heads without taking the head off. I believe you need one smaller than 13mm (1/2" = 12.7mm) to fit through the spark plug hole. The decent ones with their own hand held screens get up to more like $60 or $70...

I would use something like these for example:
10mm - http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5-2-5-7-10m-U ... 1161803729
7mm - http://www.ebay.com/itm/XCSOURCE-200X-U ... 1108810028

did you run it long enough to let it warm up ?
did you do the valve lash?
is it a miracle? :shrug:

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1963 AP5 Valiant 225 PB 904 Stock except extractors & 2 1/4 inch exhaust.


1962 S series valiant 225 PB auto. factory every thing. Full restoration job.
Currently on hold till AP5 is on the road.

I am uploading the video of the car now, I will post it tomorrow.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Here is the video. Before it sounded like this all the time after warmup, but now it does it only sometimes when hot, it seems to be worse it the oil level is full. The ticking came back after adding oil to it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI_miWg3 ... e=youtu.be

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Does it have oil consumption? Are the plugs oil fouled? Sounds like worn valve guides.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

The oil missing is from a leaky front pan gasket, external head gasket leak on the pushrod side, and a rear main seal. If I punch it to merge on the highway from 40-60mph I get a gray or white puff out of the tailpipe. Plugs are usually gray or tan and only the threads are sooty.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Oil dipstick hitting the crank? Torque converter/flexplate bolt noise?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

That sounds like top end noise from a lifter to me.

Simple test:

Remove valve cover, idle down engine as low as possible, use small hose that will fit into your ear and long enough to easily reach valve train, and slowly listen to each push rod until you find the offending lifter or valve.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

that's 1 valve noise/lifter/rocker/valve/pushrod

u know it will idle on 5

do a process of elimination

remove 1 pushrod at a time

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

I've noticed the engine idles like it is preigniting even though timing is at TDC. It sounds like a pop-pop at the tailpipe could this valve issue be causing that to happen then?

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Classic indication of sticking valve, or burnt valve.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Explain the sticking valve for me please. I've heard that term before but it is unclear to me as to what it is. What can I do to test this?

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Basically the guide is worn out or is full of crud and not allowing the valve rocker pressure or valve spring (on return) to properly actuate the valve.

Typically you can use a timing light and the valve cover removed to strobe the valves on the suspected cylinder to see if they are uniform or if one is out of phase/not moving straight up and down. A sticking valve can also sometimes be seen as an intermittent fluctuation on a vacuum gauge at idle.

If it is the case, you're removing the head and having it reconditioned (you can have one guide reconditioned, but you're on borrowed time for the others, and the exhaust seats being a pre-unleaded head anyway).

-D.Idiot

I might aswell rebuild the engine then. Here's the lowdown: I set my idle as per FSM 650 in neutral @ TDC with the hi beams on after idling for 20 minutes and going through all the gears. I go to 550 in drive. It was set at 950 in park @22 BTC and lash was .005" on all 12 valves. It idled well but it was preigniting as you can imagine. It was fine before I ever took it to them and the ticking came after I took the car there.

Is there anyway to unstick a valve? I would like to unstick it to see it I can get rid of the ticking that way. I was thinking I could replace the pushrods and lifters to be safe. IDK just thinking out loud.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.