Looks like I am going to have to replace my alternator sooner than later. It is still functioning, but makes a squeeling noise at higher rpm's (probably bearings) and I have not had any luck finding someone to rebuild it.

All the replacements are 50, 60, or 75 + amp versions. When doing the Slant6Dan upgrade (2-10 gauge wires & fuses) it will bypass the ammeter? correct? is there a way to shunt the ammeter so it will still work?(and read correctly?) -Thanks for any input!

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1964 Dart GT

Rockauto and or national parts shops like autozone / napa have repair kits with the bearings, diodes....

I rebuilt the 83 D-150 alternator,, I was surprised at how ez it was.

slow day at work... so I did alittle reading up on ammeters , I think I will upgrade my alternator & wiring, bypass my ammeter, and install a volt meter, and just be done with it. -Thanks Dan

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1964 Dart GT

I did the upgrade and installed at volt meter just to keep tabs on the charging.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I have mostly owned "Bare Bones" cars in the past. No fancy Ammeters(gauges), just idiot lights, so I was kinda surprised to find out how dangerous a fire hazard they are. I don't have any booming stereo or huge power draws, just want to be safe.

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1964 Dart GT

The gage is not a fire hazard, poor or loose electrical connections however are. Just be sure all connections to amp gage are clean and tight, fusible link is in place, no stray loose wires are capable of contacting amp gage’s treaded studs keeping stock electrical loads, and there will be no problems.

Millions of Chrysler vehicles have gone to the crusher over the last 80 years in un-incinerated condition with virgin amp gages.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

for the amp gauge to read properly,, you do need to divert the altermator output through the firewall up to the gauge..then back to the main wiring harness,,,if you want to do that, put a properly sized ( and accessable ) fuseable link in the system and the car will be protected.

a voltmeter will run off a light gauge wire,, you can grab the voltage about any where there is power with the key on,,so the install is a lot easier

yeah, if I kept the (original)30 amp alternator I wouldn't even worry about it. (non working AM radio only ) The New alternator I ordered is 60 amp, and makes almost as much power at low rpm's as the old one made at full output.

and I am running the (2) 10g wires with fuses on each end.

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1964 Dart GT