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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:59 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:25 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Clinton,Ohio
Car Model:
I'm interested in knowing if the 1981up 225's with the hydraulic cams were a good choice for a daily driver ride ? outside of no valve adjustment, were there any power/mileage benefits ?
My prime intrest is in mileage. And ways to improve mileage. Whats good/whats not. Although I would be interested in the super six 2brl system.
Did some years/heads etc work better than others?
And here's a long shot.....I'm looking to buy a Dodge A100 pickup (SL6/ or small block)with a automatic.... anyone able to help with that ?
Good to be here. Shawn
Clinton, Ohio

_________________
Mostly Old Parts And Rust
1933 Desoto Coupe 426 Hemi
1946 Dodge dumpbed pickup 2.5 Turbo 4cyl
1964 Dodge A100 pickup 273 automatic
2002 PT Cruiser Woody edition


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:23 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13268
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
The stock hydraulic camshaft profile is fairly tame. However, it does OK if you mill the head to increase the dynamic compression ratio to around 8:1.

The only advice I would give about selecting a head for fuel economy purposes would be to get a post 72 or at the least a post 67 head. Post 72 heads have hardened exhuast valve seats for unleaded gas and post 67 heads have a revised combustion chamber for better combustion.

If you are wanting to put together a slant six automatic drivetrain to go in an A100 for maximum fuel economy, I would say get an 80s era engine and transmission out of a truck or van. Mill the head to get the dynamic compression up to around 8:1, install an HEI ignition system and spend the time to custom curve your timing advance, run 3.2 or even 3.5 rear axle gears, install a vacuum gauge and drive to maximize engine vacuum, keep the single barrel carburetor and run a Holley 1920 Economizer if you can find one in god shape. Build for economy in a truck or van means building for maximum torque at low RPM. Much of what you read about hot-rodding an engine won't apply. Smaller valve to increase port velocity, smaller carb as well.

When the time comes to set up the truck or van, fabricate and install a true cold air intake system. This will likely mean running the air offset cleaner off of a 80s era van so it will clear the doghouse, but you do not want to run either an open element or one of the 60s era air cleaners since they will suck the hot air out of the engine compartment and decrease performance and economy.

Run a 195 degree thermostat and 5W-30 oil, synthetic if you can afford it.

Good luck and keep us posted!

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:01 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:25 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Clinton,Ohio
Car Model:
Thanks for the input. I was thinking that a 2.94 rear ratio might be a good choice / but around town it would kill mileage. On the highway might be good. But the 3.23 would probably be the best overall.

_________________
Mostly Old Parts And Rust
1933 Desoto Coupe 426 Hemi
1946 Dodge dumpbed pickup 2.5 Turbo 4cyl
1964 Dodge A100 pickup 273 automatic
2002 PT Cruiser Woody edition


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 9:24 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13268
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
Thanks for the input. I was thinking that a 2.94 rear ratio might be a good choice / but around town it would kill mileage. On the highway might be good. But the 3.23 would probably be the best overall.
In a light A series van or pickup that doesn't haul anything, yeah, 3.2 would probably be best.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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