One of these would work perfectly...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal ... gs/=nyoddg

The adapter shouldn't be any where near the crank, it'll be way up where the tube goes into the block.

It is similar to 3/8 NPT, but not exactly that. I believe the block is taper threaded 3/8 NPT while the pickup tube is not tapered. You can thread 3/8 NPT onto it nicely. I have used steel nipples and unions (no hex) to extend it, and I tack weld or JB Weld them together, and to the pickup tube. Stainless is way overkill and you can't weld it easily. It will be hard to extend by only 1/4", so bending it might be easier.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I figure with an adapter, if the tube is seated all the way into the adapter and the male threads of the adapter are all the way into the block, that should just about be 1/4 inch extension. That is, the distance between the bottom of the female threaded portion and the top of the male threaded portion is likely less than 1/4 inch. I can configure the tube and/or adapter to get it right.

I only considered SS because these are shorter (better machining) than the steel or iron pipe adapters.

I was thinking of using the Loctite Threadlocker 243 Blue Oil Resistant Threadlocker for the tube into the adapter threads, it won't move. Could even use the red stuff, that really won't move...without the torch.

BG

One other thing is with the pick up touching the pan is that it does give some more support to a long pick up. With no braces the them the threads have been know to crack just where they leave the block. This happened on Ryan's dart and oil pressure goes away really quickly. I built a deep pan and extended a pickup many years back and I welded a brace to the pick up tube and bolted it to the windage tray or the windage tray mounting bolts. That gave some more support to the pick up tube.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

wow, I've never heard of that cracking issue. Must be metal fatigue. I would surmise that a long sump would resonate if not supported; seems reasonable - much less likely to happen if braced (dampened) in some way by a support or resting against the pan. Mine is stock length, so I would think this is less likely. But, in the end, I can't underestimate the foresight of Mother Chrysler's engineers...they must have had more than one reason for insisting the sump rest against the bottom of the pan.

Let's reach back to 1959...what were the reasons:

1) to make sure that the sump always had an oil supply, no matter the conditions.
2) to prevent the sump from moving, turning in it's threads, and potentially hitting the crank
3) to make sure there was no resonance, vibrations, that might crack the tube?....who knows?

Chrysler products were more advanced than the others in so many ways, many which we clearly can't contemplate....

my 83 D-150 FSM says

turn pipe in until it begins to tighten and continue to tighten until the screen is in position. Hold a steel rule against flat surface inside the case and measure from edge of rule to edge of oil screeen. Measurement should be 1 1/8 (2.85cm) inches with screen properly positioned. Screen must have an interfierence with bottom of oil pan 1/16 to 1/8 inch interfierence desireable.

I bet they recommed the interfierence fit so that so the pick up stays locked in place by the oil pan, and does not hover slightly above the pan and result in noise from vibrations...