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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 8:46 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Silver Spring, Maryland U.S.A.
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do you have an oil gauge ?
do you have a working oil light (idiot light)?
that would tell if the oil pump failed ...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 8:58 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
Quote:
oil pump sheared a key no oil
locked up.
does that mean I am going to have to replace the oil pump and the oil drive gear as well as check for potential engine damage caused by the lockup?
No, it means that that is one possibility you should investigate.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:59 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2012 4:16 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
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so I am leaving my manifolds on to take the head off so I can use them as a lever as stated in the thread below. I disconnected the alternator bracket, the hoses, and the head bolts but the thing isn't budging. I rocked the heck out of it, too. I understand that it's VERY heavy, but shouldn't I still be able to at least rock it loose?

76ff72980142986e8e25f0253dbf1452

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 Post subject: The whole thing, right?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:13 pm 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
I disconnected the alternator bracket
This isn't the metal angle at the top of the alternator, this is the cast metal part that attaches to 2 bolts on the block and 1 block at the head, correct?

You should also pull all your pushrods as well, and the connector hose from the water pump to the head. It may need a little prying from a crowbar if the head is stuck with some old crusty deposits and stuck on the location pegs on the head.

-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:31 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Detroit, MI
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Quote:
Quote:
I disconnected the alternator bracket
This isn't the metal angle at the top of the alternator, this is the cast metal part that attaches to 2 bolts on the block and 1 block at the head, correct?

You should also pull all your pushrods as well, and the connector hose from the water pump to the head. It may need a little prying from a crowbar if the head is stuck with some old crusty deposits and stuck on the location pegs on the head.

-D.Idiot
yes, thats the bracket Im speaking up.

are you suggesting that I remove the pushrods to check for problems or are they just another part keeping the head on the block?

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 Post subject: Yes.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:50 pm 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
are you suggesting that I remove the pushrods to check for problems or are they just another part keeping the head on the block?
If the head slides it will bind up on the pushrods and makes removal hard ( try lifting the head and stack off the block another 6 inches until it clears the rods...it's worse on the BL heads).

I would pull the rocker shaft, pull the rods, then replace the rocker shaft so you have a handle. If someone used a composite head gasket in the past it can be 'glued' and may need help from a rubber mallet and a prybar at this point to get it loose.

Exhaust pipe is disconnected as well correct?

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:58 pm 
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Location: Burton BC canada
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no key shearing.....

Time to get a breaker bar on the end of a flex handle and roll it over.....both ways

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 Post subject: Re: Yes.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 7:46 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2012 4:16 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
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Quote:
If the head slides it will bind up on the pushrods and makes removal hard ( try lifting the head and stack off the block another 6 inches until it clears the rods...it's worse on the BL heads).

I would pull the rocker shaft, pull the rods, then replace the rocker shaft so you have a handle. If someone used a composite head gasket in the past it can be 'glued' and may need help from a rubber mallet and a prybar at this point to get it loose.

Exhaust pipe is disconnected as well correct?

-D.Idiot
yes, I disconnected the exhaust pipe. Ill remove the rods and give her some muscle tomorrow; hopefully that takes care of it.
Quote:
no key shearing.....

Time to get a breaker bar on the end of a flex handle and roll it over.....both ways
you're suggesting rolling over the crank shaft, correct? wouldn't that be bad for the engine if it's an issue of oil pump failure?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 7:52 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
Posts: 2281
Location: Eugene, Oregon
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If it had an oil pump failure turning the motor will not do much more damage.

Richard

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 Post subject: Re: Yes.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 7:54 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13280
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
Quote:
If the head slides it will bind up on the pushrods and makes removal hard ( try lifting the head and stack off the block another 6 inches until it clears the rods...it's worse on the BL heads).

I would pull the rocker shaft, pull the rods, then replace the rocker shaft so you have a handle. If someone used a composite head gasket in the past it can be 'glued' and may need help from a rubber mallet and a prybar at this point to get it loose.

Exhaust pipe is disconnected as well correct?

-D.Idiot
yes, I disconnected the exhaust pipe. Ill remove the rods and give her some muscle tomorrow; hopefully that takes care of it.
Quote:
no key shearing.....

Time to get a breaker bar on the end of a flex handle and roll it over.....both ways
you're suggesting rolling over the crank shaft, correct? wouldn't that be bad for the engine if it's an issue of oil pump failure?
If the engine is frozen it can't get any worse. It the motor is seized then you won't be able to use the compression to pop the head off the block. If you have access to a cherry picker, deadfall, or other hoisting system, you could bolt the head to the hoisting system and apply upward force that way while you use a pry bar to lever the head off the block.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 8:09 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:29 am
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Location: Silver Spring, Maryland U.S.A.
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dude

I would have used my logical method

1 remove valve cover inspect look for stuff
2 remove rocker shaft inspect look for broken valve springs/stuck valves
3 remove pushrods inspect bent or damaged
4 remove alternator/top rad hose
5 remove intake/exhaust inspect ports for stuff
6 unbolt head bolts
7 spray head inside/outside with PB blaster
8 go 2bed
9 grab head with leather work gloves shake/pull if no move
10 bang on corner of head with a heavy brass hammer/like driving a nail
11 inspect with good lighting
12 if still not loose inspect all work done
13 buy 2 cases of beer and place and ad on craigslist for an old school Harley guy to come over and take a look...
14 take photos.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 11:44 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14770
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Did you get the bottom bolt on each end that are usually covered up with goo?

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 Post subject: Result?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 4:06 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 12:27 am
Posts: 536
Location: Rawson,Australia
Car Model:
73Sam do you have a final report for us re your stuck motor? i am curious as to what it was that was causing the "stuck" ?

regards,Rod :?:


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 Post subject: bump
PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 4:38 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 12:27 am
Posts: 536
Location: Rawson,Australia
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One last try to find out what the result was?

regards,Rod :?:


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