Thanks Steve.
I was looking at other spring kits but wasn't sure what to get and if there was a certain length spring required.
Doesn't seem to be much available over here in Australia.

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

I know what you mean,I had this spring kit left over from an old Mallory dissy I did years ago,most springs weren't the correct length but some did the trick.If you can't get the correct spring kit sent over from the guys in the US just let me know,I'm happy to mail this kit up to you and see if you can use something I it ,just send back what you don't use.Cheers,Steve

Thanks for the pics and conversation, this helps, I've yet to delve into this.

Please tell me how we determine which governor is in there. Is the "R13" stamped somewhere that I don't see or is that determined by crossing the numbers on the weights? Is there a reference somewhere that tells us which governor does what?

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

Yes as of yesterday he posted on his add in "parts for sale". The add is for his kits. Try posting there.
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=52750


Dave

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86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

^ Thanks for the link and for helping out.
He has responded to my email now with a postage cost to Austria , i mean Australia.

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

The pic shows the weights and springs, the governor is the part missing from the picture that holds the reluctor and has slots in the flat plate (that give the path and limit the posts on the weights travel. It is stamped on either the bottom or top (sometimes both, have seen one 1973 stamped 15L on the bottom and 15R on the top....).

Total advance at the crank is 2x the stamp on the governor (15L from 1974=30 degrees of total mechanical timing- limited by rpm and force of the weights against the tension of the springs).

-D.Idiot

Per what DI said, take the pod and look at the arm for numbers.......hopefully it isn't rusted to the point that you can't read it.....!

Looks like you have a little cleaning to do.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Once you get that rusted mess cleaned up, working smoothly, and reassembled be sure to put a few drops of light oil on felt located in center of shaft holding reluctor. I use 20 weight "3 in 1 Oil", 10w 30 will do just fine as well.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I have a car and not a van,which may make my findings a poor fit, but after playing with efi timing curve, here what has worked best for this mostly stock engine:

50 degrees total, with no part of the curve below 30 above 1500 rpm. 10 degrees base. This means 20 degrees in the vacuum advance and 20 in mechanical. Hence the 11 vacuum pod and short slots for mechanical advance. All the variation while driving will take place between 30 and 50. You will need the adjustable can to idealize this. Turn the adjuster until you keep it out of preignition at part throttle.

In a happy, ideal world it will not prignite at wot at 30 degrees. But there are many factors affecting ths: quality of gas, comprssion ratio, cam, rear,weight of vehicle, condition of engine,etc. If you do get preignition at wot with 10 degrees base, then you have to reduce the base timing, shorten the slots, or increase the octane of your gas.

Sam

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I forgot to mention, you can lengthen the slot in the arm for the V advance can and thus increase the degrees advance in it. Use a Dremel tool and a small cut off disk. If you cannot find a long slot one, do not fret. Just make one.

Sam

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Good idea.....I did that mod to my VC-208....went from 22 degrees to 25 degrees...

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I took my dizzy apart in readiness for my spring kit.
As per bigslant6fan's instructions the governor slot should be .380 or 9.652mm.
My governor has R11 stamped on it and the slot is 10mm.
Would this extra .4mm make a difference?
Maybe my measuring stick isn't the most accurate.



Thanks,
Greg
Edit
From looking at other threads it seems the R11 governor is the one that doesn't need the slots shortened.

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I run a 15L (.475 slot) with out problem. Shortening the slots are for folks that dedicated have race cars.


Cam Crank Slot length
6° 12° 0.340"
7° 14° 0.357"
8° 16° 0.375"
9° 18° 0.390"
10° 20° 0.405"
11° 22° 0.420"
12° 24° 0.435"
13° 26° 0.447"
14° 28° 0.460"
15° 30° 0.475"
16° 32° 0.490"
17° 34° 0.505"
18° 36° 0.520"

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I think what you have is good. Go with it. Get the long vacuum advance unit. Total should be 50 when done.

Sam

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As this is my first time i have worked on a dizzy , what do you mean by long vacuum advance unit and what does it do ?
I will have a look what is stamped on my pod tonight.
Thanks ,
Greg

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT