I own a 1982 Dodge D150 truck with slant-six 225 cu. in. engine. With the help of my factory service manual, I have trouble-shot the dead coolant temperature gauge in the instrument cluster to a defective coolant temp sender. The coolant temp sender is mounted on my car on top of the engine, into a metal flange that branches off to the water pump/radiator.

Every parts house I contacted wants to sell me a different sender than the factory-stock one I have: mine has a single-terminal wire connection, whose top-where the wire's contact plug is pushed on- is threaded, with a slot at its top- like a screw thread and top.

Can anyone help me source this sender? If necessary, I will remove it and take a picture.
Thank you,
JM

This one?

Or does yours not have the plastic around the stud?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yup, that's the one. Thanks for confirming it.
Yesterday I talked to my Napa guy and he says the 5001 is marked "obsolete" in his NAPA database he searched.
Any other sources?

SMP TS-124 for dodge trucks with "light".
SMP TS-17 for those with a gauge.

Thanks a lot for the cross reference.

But when I go on eBay to look for compatibility of the SMP TS-17 for my truck, it says: "This part is not compatible with 1982 Dodge D150 Miser".
Should I just ignore it?

JM

Both parts came up while plugging in a 1982 Dodge D-150 in SMP's online catalog...

TS-17 looks like the same version used by all cars and the TS-124 looks like the type Ceej found on the NAPA site without the plastic sleeve.

-D.Idiot

Yes. Do not trust eBay as an accurate authority for what parts will fit your vehicle.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

+1 on that.


Does anyone know what the deal is with the slotted stud shown on the sensor in the link from CJ? Is this thing adjustable

Napa/Echlin ECH TS5001
Terminal Type : Threaded Stud w/ Screwdriver Slot

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

Update:
The NAPA TS5001 is obsolete.
But I found this similar looking Borg Warner WT360 sensor on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss? ... rner+WT360

Again, the compatibility charts say no fit, but I have my doubts that this is true.

The SMP TS-17 seems to be a generic substitute, and I may have to go for that one.

No, but it makes it easier for the assembly line person to install the stud in the sheild.

...and do not buy a part based simply on some of the advice given here either: SMP TS17 has about half the thread diameter of the original sensor I need to replace. Fortunately I only spent $6.95 on the part. I will go to a truck junkyard and extract a used one, if things don't progress towards a new part solution.
I am curious why no one else had had this replacement issue?

...and do not buy a part based simply on some of the advice given here either: SMP TS17 has about half the thread diameter of the original sensor I need to replace. Fortunately I only spent $6.95 on the part. I will go to a truck junkyard and extract a used one, if things don't progress towards a new part solution.

I am curious: has no one else solved this replacement issue successfully with a cross-referenced/superseded part?

Boy, wheres slantsixdan when you need him?

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

No one has had a replacement issue because they did this:




Here's an intact 1982 block that was ESC 225 Truck Block (D-150)in my garage. Your original sensor probably went in the open sleeve on the left of the pic near the thermostat housing (on my other hydro heads that port has a 3/8" pipe plug installed), so far I have found that non-ESC trucks in this area and those that couldn't get the correct sensor install the TS-17 in this bung in the water jacket. Technically, if you had an auto parts store with the Dorman drawers, you could buy a $3 bushing to install in the original hole and install the TS-17 and be done with it and have better compatibility with the pre-1980 engine temp sensors which are more common. Since the original sensor was of limited use (i.e. 7 years, then changed with the 3.8 V-6/LA engines upon the drop of the slant six from the lineup) parts manufacturers are not inclined to manufacture parts that will not sell quickly or work with a wide number of applications, sticking the end user with paying $$$ for NOS, hoping a junkyard unit will work for more than a couple of years, or researching a work-around using a common part. So insert the TS-17 in the bung shown/buy a bushing and install the sensor you have or leave your old one where it is to plug the hole and move on.


-D.Idiot

Thanks for the historic context and suggestions for a work-around. I will report back once I have installed a permanent solution.