Boy, I hate to ask because I know there are a lot of threads about this issue, but that's precisely why I'm confused...worried about oils having changed since I last played with engines (OK, that was 30 years ago...).

So, I'll use Joe Gibbs for break in, but after break in, when I change the oil, what's a good oil for a daily driver? I drive pretty much normally, meaning sometimes I floor it or drive 75 mph for extended periods, but otherwise no drag racing or heavy loads on the slant (my 71/4 rearend couldn't handle it anyway). I have a street cam, nothing high lift or anything.

Growing up, my family tended to like Valvoline in the Mopars for some reason. Is 10W40 OK for California driving?

Some threads say the new blends have sufficient wear additives etc. for the older engines, others swear by additives...

I'd love to be able to just buy some off the shelf oil for a reasonable price and be done with it. Of course I might change my oil more often to protect my beloved slant, but otherwise I don't want to have to mix/find additives. I'll admit I'm a chemist, so that wouldn't be hard, I just don't want to have to do it, but I will if I have to...

thanks so much,

BG

I just use Chevron 10-W30 and I've never had a problem with any of my rides (hi-po or not). I use a moly break in additive on first startup but that is about the extent of it. Just make sure to use a Wix filter and it should work fine.

-D.Idiot

5W-30, and get Mobil 1 synthetic if you are feeling spendy. Only buy Wix, Napa Gold, or Purolator PureOne oil filters. Since you have a fresh engine you may even be able to use 0w-30 if your clearances are tight enough.

10W-40 is too thick for all but the most severe duty in Death Valley in California. Maybe if you were towing a boat uphill in 1st doing 60 you could benefit from 10W-40, but otherwise stay away.

Use any brand that has the API sunburst seal on it. That way you know it meets the minimum performance criteria for that weight of oil.

I use 5W-30 in all of my family's vehicles and I have never had a problem.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Great, very helpful.

As someone who's been on many forums, you'll never find a solid answer. If you want to be insanely serious about the oil, run your break in, a few more changes of what you prefer to use, and then send in the used oil for an analysis. There are companies out there that test your used oil to see how much of the additives are broken down, ect ect. All of this is overkill. These engines will run fine for a very long time with good oil.

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2015 Dodge Dart GT (Daily Driver)
2006 Dodge Charger Daytona, Top Banana #3874 of 4000 (lots of fun)
1970 Dodge Dart Custom 225 Slant Six, Auto, A/C (good car, engine rebuild)

10-30 or 0-30 diesel oil. I always break in a motor with the oil I am going to run.

Rotella semi synthetic 10-30 keeps an engine clean! 10-30 regular Rotella was on sale for $11.99 a gallon at Walmart and O'Reilly's

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick