At the conservative end of the spectrum......

Doc's RV10 cam, Erson's, Comps 252 etc. is very similar to the Delta Cams E254 .435 lift grind that I have been running. It delivers a large increase in engine torque with 9.5 to one compression and works great with the 2.76 ratio 8 3/4 Sure-Grip rear end. I never go much over 2500 rpm which is a little over 60 mph, 2800 max. which is nearing 75 to 80+ mph! It has lots of snap and punch and gets good mileage. I run the 340 V8 springs outside spring only. Run .012 and .022 lash. It will make both wheels spin!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks Tex!

I am grateful for the warm introductions. As for the gauges; I had already pulled the dash and replaced that voltage regulator with a modern unit. Also bought from a company on ebay the circuit board replacements that really cleaned up the gauge issues. And again I solved the headlight issues with 2 ice cube bosch style 40amp relays with a 20amp circuit breaker from the battery feeding the new head lamps. HUGE difference. My last de lima is my wipers on the 66 cut in and out opposite of the reverse light. I replaced the neutral safety transmission switch (904 auto trans) with the newer 3pin style and it still has a wiper power issue. Basically it runs for 5 seconds and it sounds like a circuit breaker in the washer switch pops open. I loose wipers for 5 seconds and the reverse light come on. I know it sound weird but this was the issue before I switched out the trans neutral switch. I went back to the factory set up and it still does it. A member of a fellow MoPar site said this is due to a weak ground. I need a new wiper switch as it is on the same circuit as the reverse lights and feeding back thru. I bought the schematic but need to sit down an review it.

Let's get back to a cam selection: anyone else care to share in their build specs?

Thanks for all the help.

Joe

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1966 Plymouth Barracuda
1972 Dodge Demon 340
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 6.7 Diesel

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-752002-10

there is the cam in question, with specs and all. i work as a mechanic and was able to use the shop on this long weekend. it took me 2 full days to get it going, as i was changing the head also. If i were to do this at home in the driveway, i'd say the biggest challenge would be getting the oil pump out with the engine in the car. i lifted the engine and removed the passenger side motor mount. the engine got to go pretty high to get the oil pump out, just keep lifting till the rotor clears and then lower the engine, without the mount, and place a small block of 2x4 wedged between the k member and engine. oh, and you have to drop the bumper too if you want to get the cam out. Maybe on your body style you can do this: http://slantsix.org/articles/in-car-cam ... review.htm


cams coming out
as for performance, the cam really wakes up on the freeway, i don't put my foot in it on the street, because the street lights in LA are half a block away from each other, but the highway is great. The engine really comes to life at 60mph , spinning 2500rpm, the cruise is nice, and once you put your foot in it you're up to 90mph before you know it at 3000rpm. It works for what i'm using it for. I believe the lower end cam would be this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-7 ... e/plymouth

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

VBW,

That is an awesome picture and advice. I had planned on dropping the k-member and lifting the car over the engine to work on it. Replacing the 45 year old /6 torsion bars with some newer v-8 units from MoPar performance. Also I want to send my steering box out for a Firm feel unit over the winter; the one that was written up in Mopar Action a while back. I have a fully tight front end but a lot of road wander. Kind of scary at 55mph.
The bushings are all new along with everything else I could replace such as brake lines, seals and ball joints. I know my caster is too light
and would love to replace the upper control arm bushings with the off set units or an adjustable set of upper control arms. My issue is most alignment guys only can do what the computer tells them to do and they cant properly adjust for the car's needs. I did alignments for years when I* worked at the dealership and went to front end school 3 times. I get it, but the alignment people get their feathers ruffled when I start to tell them that "just because it's in the green, its not all good"


I need to sit down a review the cam advice as I still can read cams by measurements but not sure on the rpm range of the /6 and the needed compression ratio.

Keep up the good advice and pictures! I love it.

Joe

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1966 Plymouth Barracuda
1972 Dodge Demon 340
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 6.7 Diesel

Back to the windshield wipers, 'cause I have some experience in that area (and virtually none with engines). Do you have variable speed, 2-speed, or single speed wipers? I have variable speed in my64ragtop. The schematics I have for the '66 barracuda are not the greatest. This onehas the wiper switch, and this oneshows the NSS.

You said you had changed the switch to the three pin one and changed it back to the two pin and the wiper problem did not change. the wires at the NSS should be violet and violet with a trace. The one with the trace is the power for the backup lights, which is drawn from the wiper switch. The drawing I have does not show it, but my variable speed W/W switch has a circuit breaker mounted to it. That breaker protects the wiper motor, the backup lights and the windshield washer pump.
I'm not sure that you need a new wiper switch, but I would surely examine that switch and the wiring attached. I suppose the problem could be a ground issue, but it sounds to me like the wiper motor is drawing too much current. That doesn't explain the backup lights coming on, though.

I hope that gives you a little guidance, maybe someone here has more specific knowledge of your barracuda setup. Good luck!

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!