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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Dadtruck: Thanks for reintroducing me to a thread I apparently followed and participated in, and today have no recollection of doing so… Well, so much for a scull load of aging atrophied mush powering this oxygen burning featherless biped at remembering the fine points. I reread the whole thing, and for future reference printed off head flow charts as your engine head and bore mimic my engine . Thanks for posting that information.

Perhaps the second time around some of it will stick

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I did get the D-150 back from Kenney's shop on saturday,, he had painted the cab and fenders last fall,, and I had been working with him to get the bed and hood back,, got em, the bed and hood have the wrong color red on them, the hood was not finished...can't believe this, but its going back to his shop again next week...still not done.. two years and still working with the body repair.

over the next day or two I will add info on the engine build and short term driving impressions..

the D-150' engine has around 200 miles on it now,, mainly trips to Morresville to try and get the unfinished parts back on it..

starts on the first hit, engine looks very smooth at idle, no shakes..there is a little lope at idle, when set around 800 RPM,, exhaust fumes (without a cat) not noticable,,
exhaust sound is fairly loud at idle and really loud at full throttle, running the same flowmaster muffler, and dutras, and long down pipes,, maybe its the cam change or compression,, with the stock engine, there was a little rumble out of the pipes,, now it is a bark.

for cranking compression, the numbers below are 1 to 6, from the stock motor, back in 2008 with 100K miles, engine warm
120,150,150,130,150,148
below are with the modified motor, spring of 2011 after running the engine about 30 minutes in chassy, engine cold
150,160,150,165,162,162
below are from a compression check last sunday,, approx 200 miles on the engine, engine warm
170,170,170,180,180,172

for the rebuilt engine the average is 173 and the range is 10.
The RB compression calculator had predicted a cranking compression of 165, so that is right on target.
the calculated static compression is 8.49 and dynamic is 8.26, also using the RB on line calculator

here are notes that I have on the cam install
this is with a 4 degree copper colored bushing..

105 LSA, 100.5 Intake Centerline

at .050
IVO 6 BTDC
IVC 27 ABDC
EVO 32 BBDC
EVC 5 BTDC

actual intake lift , .299 x 1.5 = .448, Oregon stated .447 on the Cam Card
actual exhaust lift , .284 x 1.5 = .426, Oregon stated .432 on the Cam Card

this is the OE cam with the Oregon 1333 Intake grind on the intake and 1527 Intake grind on the exhaust
256 / 250 on a 105 LSA gets 43 degrees of overlap
212 / 206 at .050 on a 105 LSA gets -1 degree overlap


notes from the cylinder head work
the chambers with OS valves ( Enginebuilder) installed checked at 59cc,to get to my target compression ratio, with the piston recession and head gasket thickness considered I needed to get to to 53 cc chambers,, = minus 6 cc
6 x .0068 = .0408 to be removed

so had .040 removed from the head and a skim cut, less than .010 from the case.

Ed's Machine shop in Mooresville put in a OS seats and a nice multi angle valve seat grind.
I did not gasket match, but I did do a port match, a minor clean up in the port arms and a bit of radius blending in the bowl area. I also had a larger back cut added to the intake valves.
Had the head flowed, got the following at 28 inches
valve -I-E
.050-34-31
.100-61-57
.150-88-78
.200-118-94
.250-145-108
.300-164-120
.350-171-131
.400-175-139
.450-180-143

Since the head / case were milled and the cam was reground I was interested to see how the hydraulic preload would end up. On both a new set of lifters and the OE lifters the plunger travel checked at an incredible .180 on the OE engine the hydraulic preload was .090 to .100, or just about the center of the travel. After running the re assembled engine I removed the rocker shaft to get the new preload. It checked at .075 to .080 so now the push rods are less into the lifters by .015 to .020,,, not centered as well as before in the available travel, but not far off. I stayed with the OE push rods. For the valve springs I used new VS510 ( slant six stock) valve springs,, Ed shimmed them to get to 95 lbs closed. Ed mentioned that if I had gone any bigger on the cam the stock valve springs would not work,,


used Silvolite .030 OS pistons, Federal Mogul (Sealed Power) Moly rings, King Bi-Metal bearings. Top and mid rings were set to .014 ring gap.
Rod and Main bearing clearances checked at .0015, rod side clearance was .008 to .014
reused the OE rods, Ed said they checked fine, he did install ARP rod bolts and weight balanced the rods and pistons.

The engine build is planned around low end torque, as the Silvolite pistons are heavier than the stock pistons, in place of the light weight cast crank I used a heavy early cast crank as well as a heavy three pully cast damper.
Stock flywheel and clutch assembly


running a Holley 2280, the numbers on the carb trace it back to a 318, I re built it and ran it on the D-150 prior to taking the truck down,, no bog or hesitation on acceleration, On deceration, the idle speed drops really low, enough to make you think the motor is about to stall, then recovers, Got to figure out what is causing that. On the A/F gauge, I think I am seeing a lot of 14.7 to 15.1 values,, but I need a co pilot to take a ride with me and eye the gauge..
the hot water heat to the intake manifold base, using the EGR port is working fine, I plumbed that in picking up hot water from the head and delivering it back to the water pump using the connections that the by pass hose normally use. The engine warms up uniformly, using a hand held non contact thermometer, the intake manifold base warms quickly,, so far so good

other items, I added a windage tray and am using a Dutra Ported oil pump and an HEI ignition. So far I am very satisfied with the motor.

things still to work on
* wiring in the power windows
* tidying up the wiring under the dash and securing the fuse box
* installing a stero / speakers
* installing door pannels and dash facia
* re installing front bumper and grill
* the tranny shifts easy into 1st, 3rd and 4th,, its a hard pull into second, no gear grinding, I think its linkage adjustment,, need to figure that out also.

its been a project
soon it will be a driver

[quote]below are from a compression check last sunday,, approx 200 miles on the engine, engine warm
170,170,170,180,180,172[/quote]


I was getting varying numbers like that, but in the 145-165 range on my engine. I played around with the lash settings and conducted additional compression tests until all compression reading were within 3 psi. You could shoot for 175 psi making the average change just 5 psi. That evening of cylinder pressures may even out your idle, and idle vacuum readings if your cam has a lot of overlap; it did mine. Then test again after two or three thousand miles have been rolled on, and see how she is braking in.

For some reason my cam must have a bit of variance due to wear I guess, coupled with ring condition, and cc of each cylinder. When I had my head rebuilt with oversized valves the cc measurements were within 1 cc of all six cylinders. My lash both I &E range between 0.024 to 0.028â€￾, so it doesn’t take much of a lash adjustment to change pressures on a high compression engine.

I always make a fresh chart showing the lash setting of each cylinder, and its final pressure, date, and mileage, and spark plug condition. This helps to see trends developing over time.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I have a hydraulic cam,,,

what are your static and dynamic compression ratios, are you stuck with premium gas?

back when I was in the planning mode and running the cam and compression simulators, I was suprised at how much I had to back off the static compression to get a reasonable cranking compression with this small cam.
I currently have BP premium in the tank,, have not heard anything that sounds like knock or preignition, but I think I am conservative on the timing too, but I want to be able to run it on regular..

the ignition timing is
roughly
10 at 1000
28 at 1500
38 at 2500

Talked to Ed this evening and told him you were happy with his work. Mentioned 170 cranking pressure and he was talking premium. The real test as we have talked is to put it under load and see. Damn thing pulls hard and looks good. Stump puller. John you are damn good!

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

here is a video of the 83 D150 with the bed mounted,, the body work is impeccable,, the pannels are straighter now than when it was new,, it is nuts that Kenny missed on the tone, both of the reds are nice colors, both have great shine, and very nice depth, they just don't match...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovKgcCafAA8



endeavor to perservere,
here is the story on that...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csEzTwKemwY

You are talking about the colors between the box and the cab as far as color matching right? That sucks dude...I hope that wont be the case when it comes to lay down some color on my rig. Truck is coming together nicely though! Looking forward to the upcomimg progress!

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-Brodie

1977 Dodge D100 stepside, slant six/3 on the tree
2002 Chrysler 300M Special (daily driver)

That truck won't be sneaking up on anyone.

Mine isn't that loud but it idles real nice when it is happy with the initial timing.

Where did you get the snorkel top for the cold air Intake?

Thx, Ray

is saying it as politely as possible,,,#@&!! is what I said,, however, the craftmanship , body work, is really good,, it is just that the G.D. color is wrong,, go figure, anyone can make a mistake,, recovery is 90% of any game

the hat is from a middle 90's GMC jimmy or chevy trailblaser
the flexable hose connector is from a eary 2000's dakota
the air cleaner hsg is from a 90's buick
the stainless worm drive clamps are also pull a part finds,,,

its just walking around and seeing what may work together....and letting the imagination run........

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

Wv

Thx dad

here are videos of the D-150 shot yesterday, I am sure there will items to work out,, but with a very few exceptions, it is finished

http://youtu.be/izQjU31JLyY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIdiGIhO ... e=youtu.be

http://youtu.be/XkaprT-7XwU

http://youtu.be/MqwUrTJlOes

Looks and sounds friggin' awesome! Great job on your build!

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-Brodie

1977 Dodge D100 stepside, slant six/3 on the tree
2002 Chrysler 300M Special (daily driver)

Good job. Now you need some road miles on it. Love it.