Just as the title says I did the upgrade today and it smoothed out my idle, helped my vacuum steady and the engine will even maintain a rough idle at 300 rpm not that I plan toleave it there. I ddidn't even set the plugs to 045 yet.

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2006 Jeep Commander
2013 Chrysler 200

1964 Valiant 4 Door
1965 Plymouth Barracuda
1967 Chevy Camaro

I've always said it was the best upgrade I've ever done and did mine for $25. I've had people at car shows ask me if that really works. My response is hell yeah best thing ever. I've talked to people in the auto electric field that told me that wont work. I tell them want a bet. Ill drive down and show you plus the thousands that have also done it.

Yep, I get the funny lost look everytime I show people the conversion. On my 400 B block it really helped idle quality.

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

I totally agree with you all, the HEI conversion really delivers!

Olaf

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Aspenized

Care to share technical explanation as to why it is better? My system does employ a seven pin HEI.

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If you look at SL6 Dan's write up you will see on the oscilloscope photos that it delivers more amperage, and a longer duration more potent spark compared to a stock MOPAR ECU.

I like the idea that it can output 7 to 8 amps on a stock HEI and it has a built in voltage regulator. Upgrade HEI's put out even more amperage for higher compression ratios.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I did my HEI conversion today and i'm surprised at the difference in performance...




Right now, i just set mine up to run off the original coil wire + feed and i'm using a stock mopar style coil, i used the pickup connector off my old distributor and an old computer heat sink...my plugs are still at .035 for now and 7mm plug wires

I didn't have any thermal compound to put under the module right now. Is it really necessary with the module out in the open air on a heat sink?

Later on, i will add an electronic coil, at least 8mm plug wires and maybe a relay and inline fuse

Does anybody have an opinion on how long the current setup will last? I have a backup coil and 3 backup HEI modules

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1984' Dodge D150 Utiline Bed
Slant 6 225, Holley 1920 Carb
A833 4 Speed O/D Transmission

I'll venture to say that your module will last a lot longer if ya put the heat sink compound under it! Every project involving solid state devices
that I recall seeing calls for heat sink compound to conduct the heat from the device to the heat sink. I've never questioned it, just used the stuff.

Maybe we're all victims of a world wide conspiracy by the heat sink compound makers?? Good luck.

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Your right, no reason not too you can get thermal compound pretty cheap off ebay. I have some now...

I bought a ignition coil pack that came off a 99' GMC 5.7 liter truck. It has the mounting bracket, heat sink, 3 pin E-coil, that will be my permenate setup. I'll make sure it gets thermal compound

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1984' Dodge D150 Utiline Bed
Slant 6 225, Holley 1920 Carb
A833 4 Speed O/D Transmission

You can get heat sink compound and heat sinks (and even enclosures for the module!) at Radio Shack, too.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Start it up, let it idle for awhile, and then put your finger on the HEI module. You will know right away if it is getting hot. I did use the compound, and would recommend it.

Reed, talk a little more a bout the enclosures for the module found at Radio Shack. What do they call them, and where are they? If you have to ask a rep you are dead in the water.

Sam

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Here's a pic of the ignition coil pack that i'm going to use



I know that i can't use the hei module that's on it...i'll put the echlin TP-45 4 pin hei on, with some thermal compound of course!

I'm using the HEI Electronic Ignition Retrofit How-To article as a guide

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 2ad42d5243
I drove it yesterday for about 20 miles...when i got back i touched the module and heat sink and they weren't very hot, but i'll make sure the permenant setup gets the compound!

I touched on the standard mopar coil and it was hot...but i never touched it after driving it with the other ignition setups so i don't know if it was hotter than normal. My coil is bolted to the engine block so i figure that it's suppose to be hot to the touch but not so hot that you couldn't touch it...i've heard that those type of coils can get so hot that the caps blow off

I'm considering wiring a computer style 12v fan and mounting it over the module and heat sink for the fun of it...i definetly don't think it's necessary, but i already have one ready so i might do it...

I'll post pics when i have it mounted...i was thinking i might try a .040 plug gap. I'm not a big believer in big plug gaps, i know .045 is what's recommended. I learned that you should not go to big or you could blow a hole in the piston! Ouch, that would be a bummer for sure!!!

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1984' Dodge D150 Utiline Bed
Slant 6 225, Holley 1920 Carb
A833 4 Speed O/D Transmission

I have always seen them called "project enclosures." :shrug: try the Radio Shack website. I have also seen good things done with those plastic snap-closed children's supply boxes.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

If the Mopar coil is a fairly standard coil the HEI module isn't really switching all that much current,that's probably why it isn't getting very hot,switch to a HEI type coil with .5 ohms or so primary resistance and it will put the module to work,then the heatsink and compound really comes into play. That being said,touch the distributor in a smallblock chev or Mopar that's at operating temp and you'll see the harsh environment these modules are designed to work in. I'm running a pertronix module and a .6 ohm pertronix canister type coil to keep it stock looking,the module is on a pretty compact heatsink that is also well attached to the inner fender for even more heatsink,it only gets warm most times,but give it a higher speed run and it does get a little warmer,but never too hot to touch.

Sam- check this out:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062279

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.