Mopar Performance Bolt-On Frame Connector 4876658
Listed for 1967-76 (111" WB)
I do not see any listings for 1963-66. Does anyone know of a set for the earlier A's?

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1964 Dart GT

U.S. Cartool makes them, I've seen pics on Fabo. Really nice, fit tight to the floor.

I can't speak to the earlier A-body fitment, but I have the US Cartool connectors on my 74 duster. I took my car to their shop and had them installed. They discovered that there was a difference in floorpans between the duster/demon and other late A-body floorpans. I had to explain to them that there is a 2" difference in wheelbases. They gave them to me at no charge, in exchange for making a pattern off my car for the duster/demon floorpans.

The fitment is top notch. They are laser cut, and require VERY little problems having them installed. I would recommend them.

Brian

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Flyin' Brian

74 Duster, 225, rear-mounted blow through turbo at 12psi boost, street/strip car
"Sixy Beast"

The 3" difference is behind the front seat...oddly that still doesn't help as the driver's side floor pan on the 1975-1976 cars with the catalytic convertor is different from the 1970-1974 Duster/Demon/Sport floor pans as well (they have a 'hump' for an aluminum heat sheild to bolt into to keep the floor pan from getting hot...)...

I have a set of 1/16" channels that I'll install in my car once things settle down (will do it the E-booger way, and gusset the corner sub frames as well like the convertibles and hemi cars as well).

-D.Idiot

Mopar Performance Bolt-On Frame Connector 4876658
This is a bolt in(that could be welded),as opposed to the US Cartool version that is weld in only. My car has undercoat caked on from days gone by, so welding full length would be a major hassle.

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1964 Dart GT

I installed the bolt in units on my '70 360 Dart. I loved the way it tightened up the car, but keep in mind this design does create a rust potential. Be sure to use plenty of rust proofing on surfaces that will be bolted together and thus creating recesses where salt and moisture can get trapped..

Sam

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Expensive solutions. The local steel supply sells "seconds" by the pound. A couple of 2"x4"x.120 tube 40 or so inches long, cost less then $20. A couple of hours later, I had sub-frame connectors in my Dart.

kesteb- I am leaning towards making my own. I just wonder why all the manufactured ones are for 1967 and up? What could be different about the early A body? (1964 Dart GT in my case) -Thanks Dan

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1964 Dart GT

It's because the 67-76 is a wide body and the guys doing this are shovelling a big block under the hood for racing, and the engine bay didn't change much for those years, there are few conversions for the '60-62,63-66 but you have to cut up the body to get the engine to fit...the problem is the alignment of the unibody rails are a bit different between the two generations and aren't a compatible fit...

Mopar Action had a good article a long while back that helped the DIY guy do it like Kesteb describes.

Here's a short version:

http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/quest1/UN-TWEAK_IT.html

-D.Idiot

Glad I have access to the local steel supply and DIDN'T buy Brighton tool. Not sure USCartool is in the Mitt.

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Brian Doak CMfrT

Not hard to do. The ones for specific years hug the floor. SFC's don't need to. The cost is making them hug the floor pan. Completely unnecessary.
Your keeping the geometry right, not building a battleship. The wall thickness doesn't need to be heavy. The size of the tube doesn't need to be huge.

Once you have the frame correctly aligned, weld a couple of sticks of something light from front to rear, butted to the sub-frame cross members.. (Where the uni-body bridges the front and rear sub-frames.) All you are doing is keeping the sub-frames correctly separated, front to rear. The rest of the connections to the uni-body will keep the body from twisting once that is accomplished.

1/16" wall 1x2 will do the trick. It can be positioned further down from the floor pan. It's not going to contact it, and doesn't need to.

2¢

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I mounted mine in flat. The 2" part was parallel to the ground. Even then it would hit the floor boards. But they were rusted, so it didn't matter.

I run 1x2 thin wall on the hooptie. Even with the long rod stroker, no twist. Launches flat.

I have a bunch more room than the early A's.

Used to launch with the driver's side fender high, and on drag rubber, ripped the trunk supports loose. No more problems like that. Just a few pounds of steel. Maybe 7# between the two of them.

Doesn't need to be fancy.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing