Heres what i found on my 68 170cuin; a broken tappet on cyl 2!
I was able to remove the tappets from cyl 2 and 3, but not the other ones. I can move them easy up an down, but i can not remove them. Do i have to remove the camshaft and remove the tappets from the under side?
Second question is, can i install a tappet from an older 170cuin engine , but with a different style (solid)

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62 Valiant
62 Lancer

It is likely that varnish build-up is the problem so spray some carb cleaner around the lifters, then "work" them up & down, to get them out.
Keep them in order if you plan to re-use them or better yet buy a new replacement set of lifters.

You can convert to solid lifters, however, there are other parts that will need to be replaced. The Rocker shaft, rockers, and the pushrods must be replaced.
Are you sure you have hydraulic lifters? Do the rockers have adjusters on them? The ones with adjusters are for a solid cam shaft.
Are the pushrods hollow? If not, and you have hydraulic lifters, it's not surprising they are coming apart.
Hydraulic cam profiles, and solid cam profiles are different. While not a show stopper, they will behave oddly going from solid to hydraulic lifters, and the ramps will be "Aggressive" going from hydraulic cam to solid lifters.

Do you have a lifter removal tool?


CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Hollow pushrods are for hydarulic lifters that is how the lifters get the oil.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I have solid lifters, not hydraulic. Problem is, that the broken tappet looks like -hmm, a dumbbell. I have some tappets from an old 62 170 cuin engine, also with solid lifters, but they look different.

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62 Valiant
62 Lancer

They need their glasses on...

I don't think that they were aware about the fact that there are different style of mech lifters (comp cam uses a heavy solid cylindrical lifter, the stockers and new melling lifters are dumb bells, and the dumb bell shape sometimes differed a bit over the years for stockers)

you can put in another lifter (new dumbell)...you can't pull a used lifter from another engine and install without having the lifter reground, it's best to get a new one so you can drop it in and go. As long as the engine isn't drag racing or going high rpm if the new one is a little different from the old one it will be OK.

-D.Idiot

Actually, we are aware of that. Both styles are solid. A hydraulic is not considered a "solid" lifter. By stipulating the difference it indicated an Hydraulic. Thanks for the plug THOD.

The weight is different, but for a driver, it shouldn't matter too much. You will need to run the cam in with the installation of any new lifter. As Rob stipulated, you can not use a used lifter anywhere but on the lobe it came off of. The wear pattern is different, and the old lifter in a new lifter bore will destruct as will the cam lobe.

For what a new set costs, just drop a new set in, go through the cam run in, but not until you determine why the lifter came apart. Chances are, you have more problems to deal with.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thank you all for the answers.
Now i konow, i can not mix the dumb bells with cylindrical style tappets. So i ordered new ones at rockauto.com, beacuse they ship to europe.
Sorry about my english, i try my best...

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62 Valiant
62 Lancer

Tell us how you fouled a Solid lifter. Thats tough without hurting the cam. You can order solids for an early 273 if they are any cheaper and have 4 extra. I think even the pre 68 big blocks used the same solid lifter. The dumbell are lighter but watch them on a huge cam as they can expose the oil galley.

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I didn' t buy it, I built it.....

FYI...
The oil gallery does not pass thru the lifter bores, on a SL6.
DD

Oops should have said sb/bb...sure.

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I didn' t buy it, I built it.....