I would have contacted ARP, and sent them all photos, including some more detailed photos of the broken rod bolt. In my opinion, the bolt may be hardened incorrect, the softer bolt core should not have that oval pattern when over stretched.

Olaf

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Aspenized

Rick, in the bottom picture, is the section on the rt hand side of the bolt shiny or just oily. If its shiny, this indicates where the failure began, likely a flaw in the bolt. The matching upper section of the bolt and this section were rubbing and chaffing against each other. The center and left section are where the bolt had its sudden failure and broke apart with basically only 2/3 of the shank diameter left to endure the stresses it was subjected too.
Given the power output and the RPM the rod bolts saw in your engine, I don't see how that was the cause, it was more that likely a flaw in the bolt that was to blame.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Here are 2 more pictures of the bolt. I washed it off with brake cleaner. Sides are definitely more shiny, center more rough.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I'd be callin' ARP and sendin' the photos. with a little luck you may get something out of them.

I will be anxious to get the pan off and find the other half of the bolt. I'm just hoping that some of the pieces did not leave the side of the pan and are lost forever.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Yes, these newer pics confirm my earlier diagnosis. Cleaning the bolt and a little better angle helped.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Do you really think that they will even listen to me? Or do something about this?

More pics of the carnage.





When the rod broke the piston just slightly "kissed" the valves and rotated in the bore. I thought the valves would have been destroyed! Of course I will have the machine shop check them out for me.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

who torqued the rod bolts?

did they go back and re-torque to specs.

looks like a weak torque 2me.

lose then snap.

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

As I said before, and have "learned" that these bolts were not installed correctly and the rods were not re-sized. And they were not torqued to the ARP recommended torque. So that would likely make it all my fault. I just won't do the same wrong things again. Live and learn.

Rick
Not that it makes any difference now, but here is a picture of my ARP bolts still in the shrink wrap. Does anyone see any instructions or assembly lube? I'm pretty sure that they don't all come with them.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

Did they come from a relible vendor? There has been a problem with fake ARP blots. Lube on the back of an older pack. The instructions were with the lube.
Will

see here
http://www.hotrod.com/feature_stories/1 ... to_28.html

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

Rick, you may never pinpoint the real source of the failure, but one thing you have learned, education is expensive no matter what school ya get it from.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I got mine off the internet from Maddog racing. I would guess they are a reliable source. As for the lube and instructions, I don't know. If they were on the back I never saw or felt them.
Yep, that is what I figured!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I think ARP would want to know,and evaluate the items. Even if they don't compensate. You never know unless you try.