When you start that thread, please be sure to list ALL your engine's components for us.

It will be HUGELY appreciated by all!!!!

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

805moparkid might start building my humble design, we had a chat and im cool with it, 2.5 tight 180 mandrel is what i used. Cut and weld to suit. I notched my driver mount bracket for clearance, its snug against my steering box but i run a narrow A. The shorter you can make it the better. Ceramic coat yours when done or header wrap it, the heat loss involved with long runs slows the velocity at the turbo. AFAIK, all slant logs are equal with small changes to choke wells and reinforcement ribs only. Turbo off flange would not work on mine, just no room with steering box there. If you have room look for a turbo off a ford truck,they spool CCW which makes fitment easier.

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I didn' t buy it, I built it.....

sure will. i will be posting prices for everything too in case anyone i wondering what a budget turbo build actually costs.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

i recall coming across your build a while ago. are you still running the supra turbo? i cant do a flange off of the manifold either. im gonna keep the hyperpac and there just isnt enough room in there to fit underneath. im gonna run it up where my battery tray was. also planning on running a 2.5 mandrel bent pipe, not sure yet if i gotta keep it tight or not yet. going to a carshow this weekend after that im tearing into it.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Junior,

Please reconsider running a Hyper-Pac manifold, for two reasons: 1. If it keeps you from positioning the hardware where you need it to be, that is reason enough to get rid of it, but, 2, listen to what our turbo-guru had to say about our intake manifold, a long-runner Aussie-Speed, a close copy of a Hyper-Pac manifold... This guy makes his living as a techincal consultant to Automobile manufacturers in their induction design departments, specializing in forced induction...

This is what he said when hew saw pictures of our AussieSpeed, long-runner manifold:

He wrote...
"Those long runners are really going to limit the hp. If you can swap it for something else it would get you some of the biggest gains you'll make in a single part. I would use a Weber style manifold and make a plenum, or at least something with shorter runners like the 2x2bbl conversion manifolds Offenhauser and Cain are or were making.

Even just a shorter-runner 4bbl manifold will still show a good gain in peak power over what you have now, like the Cain show here vs. your manifold:

http://www.hotsixes.com/hotsixes/wp-con ... ifolds.jpg

Your manifold has long runners to help fill the cylinders at low rpm, to make torque. Correspondingly they will limit top end power in a big way. A) You have an air pump to fill the cylinders, B) you don't care about low end torque since it's a track car, and C) you do care about midrange and top end power. To top it off, you have an automatic so you can load the turbo against the converter (or better yet, transbrake) so it's not like you will even leave the line at low rpm. Sorry but that manifold has to go, in my opinion."

In an attempt to follow his advice, we bought first, an Offenhauser and then, a Clifford manifold (both!) to try and neither would fit. Next, we are going to save up for a short-runner intake from AussieSpeed.... and hope it will fit (they all contact the header.)

Since you haven't gotten it running yet, I think you should really listen to what this guy thinks.... Factories pay big money for advice like thie...


Good luck with whatever you decide!

Bill, in Conway, Arkansas

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Billdedman, my intake isnt making me change my setup. i never planned to run a flange off of the exhaust manifold. it was always gonna be a header or a j-pipe. i appreciate the concern for my intake choice. i have read your build and the trials you have gone through with the long runner aussie intake. i have also read this thread many times as well, http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... sc&start=0 as far as i can tell he is still running the hyperpac. my car is going to be street/strip. i believe i will need the hyperpac to get off the line as i am running a manual transmission, low boost and low rpm. i also dont plan on running crazy fast. my goal is 14 flat or high 13's sould be totally feasible with my setup with room for improvement. i dont believe that my intake is going to hold me back from those goals. the car is a dog off the line as it sits and i dont think that is going to change with the addition of the turbo. i love the ability to walk and plan on doing so for the remainder of my natural life so im keeping the rpm under 5000. ive read and read and read and read some more and continue to read buildups and books on turbocharging and tuning. i have done my homework and am ready to put what i have learned into practice.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

also your link didnt work.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

First off, I apologize for making you think that ~I~ thought that you were going to run your turbo off a flange that bolted directly to the cast iron exhaust manifold. I may have said words to the effect that I believed that, but I never did, I am sorry... I always knew that you were going to bolt a J-Pipe to the stock manifold and run the turbo on a mounting flange on the other end of that. My concern was that the manifold-end of the J-Pipe was too close to the intake manifold with the Hyper Pac, and there wasn't sufficient room for the flange that bolted the J-Pipe to the exhaust-manifold, itself. I was obviously wrong about that.

We may be a little farther down the road to completion than you, and I can tell you this; In some testing on back-roads, low-end torque has NEVER been a problem with our setup... (2.74 1st gear 904, 3.55:1 Sure-Grip rear end, and 9" X 26" Hoosier slicks.)

It makes ALL KINDS of torque below 2,000 rpm... on demand.

I would think your setup will do the same... That's with 10-pounds of boost. With a 3,000-stall-start, it just incinerates the slicks for the first 40-50 feet, if you stay in it.

That is on untreated asphalt. Some VHT strip-treatment may change that (hopefully.)

The link I included, that didn't work, was in that consultant's email to me and is 4 years old.... I'm not surprised it didn't work. Sorry.

Since you're not trying to go 10.50's and this will be a street car, I'm sure that Hyper Pac manifold will work great for you.

Keep us posted!!!

Bill, in Central Arkansas

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

i wasnt trying to come off as a jerk or anything like that was just trying to let you know my intentions on my setup.
im running a manual transmission with a SG 3.21 rear. i have no way to spool up off the line so im gonna be waiting for the boost to kick in. i could be wrong about that and hope i am. my choice in a turbo on the smaller size reflects this problem. im sure i could slip the clutch and use my line lock to put the turbo to work and build boost but i doubt it would like that much. if anyone knows how to come off the line in a stickshift car with boost let me know. im almost giddy about the idea of being able to fry the tires without dumping the clutch. i cant wait.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Junior,

I had forgotten that you were running a 4-speed (manual.) Because of the close-relationship between the turbo and the drive-train, you MIGHT want to look at the inclusion of a 904 instead. It may or may not be an option for you, but these turbocharged slant sixes make a LOT of torque when they get spooled.... I wouldn't be surprised to learn that they are capable of 450-500 foot-pounds. I don't know a lot about slant six clutches, but finding one that would hold all that torque, last awhile, and not break the bank doing it, might be the hard part.

Without insulting your intelligence, I'd like to point out that the turbo/automatic setup has a couple of things about it that makes life a little easier in a practical sense. To wit, since the converter multiplies torque, the engine can have some "lag" and you'll never feel it because the converter took care of it... I realize you have probably been through all this, yourself, a thousand times in your head... The problem of building boost on the starting-line is a problem, to be sure, but if you can power-brake the vehicle, it's still a problem, but manageable... It might leave the starting-line just as fast with a manual 4-speed/clutch setup, but getting any kind of consistency with that setup could be problematic.

Then again, some guys just LIKE a manual, 4-speed setup and wouldn't want an automatic in their car under any circumstances.

It's YOUR car and YOUR decision... nobody can do that for you. I just think, personally, if there was ever a situation that NEEDED an automatic, this is it... but, that's just me....

I am really happy that you're building this motor, and I appreciate all the time you've taken (and will take, I hope,) to describe what you're doing with it!

Good luck, and keep us posted!!!!

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

as much as the automatic would help with getting off the line and all other things considered im still going to go with the manual until it is no longer feasible. i really dont know how my clutch is going to react to the extra hp and torque, hopefully it holds for a while. i plan on upgrading to the ford clutch like other members have done sooner or later. ive had automatic cars and manual cars of the same make, model and engine and i would take the manual every time. they are just more fun and offer better control over the car IMO. in the end or where ever i come to, if i cant find a clutch that will hold i may change over to an automatic but to tell you the truth i would probably dial back the boost until i can keep a clutch intact. in the event that i want to make a slant six race car with a turbo setup ill definitely consider an auto.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Hey, you pays your money and you takes your cherce!!!!

I am sure you'll have an absolute BALL with that 4-on-the floor!!!!

Happy hunting!!!


Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

new question. out of the people running a j pipe, do you have anything to support the weight of the turbo or are you relying on the pipe itself? my turbo weighs in at about 30lbs and that seems a little heavy to have just the pipe holding it up. if you are using a brace of some sort can you please post a picture.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Spec drilled my stock flywheel to fit the 9.5inch disc and stuff mine is stage 3+ super clamp option for a supposed holding power 600 or 620 cant remember.
I made a braket from my powersteering pump braket to one of the 4bolt flange bolts on my turbo to help hold up the weight.

Kev

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I don't advise letting the pipe take the weight. I made a turbo mount that attached to the engine/trans brace. It totally supports the turbo. My turbo is located to the rear of the engine centerline.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225