No plastic bushings, but there is a thin wafer washer that goes over the bushing inside the "cup/body" it acts as a diverter for oil and crankcase venting/crud. It's not really needed but if it was intact I'd put it back on after clean up.

Being that far out I'd see if you have another donor body/mainshaft that might be tighter.

You can also swap the parts onto your reman and put it back together and run it (note the direction of your rotor slot in comparison to the light spring when reassembling...)

-D.Idiot

Wel turns out I got board today and tore into my running dizzy to play w the gov and springs. As mentioned it was a rebuild Russian roulette type ordered for 77 volare w super six. And to my surprise when I got it apart, it too was a 9R gov and numbers on the weights were the exact same as the super six dizzy! But, turns out it had the heavy spring and an unknown lighter one. So I used both dizzys to make one and started w a diff set of springs, I think yellow and a blue, have to look at the chart again. So I set the gap at .008 and reinstalled. Set base at 10, so far so good. Seem to pull a bit better in third but could just be placebo. Was going more for all mech to add to the vac for mpg. Used the 11R can as well since the reman one had no marks at all! guess I may reassemble the old dizzy and sell it who knows.

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

the reman generic can is a 10X (20 degrees of advance) and has a average advance curve...I would set the dizzy to 12BTDC + 18 degrees mech and go with the reman can for a total of 50 degrees at max advance....

What you will find is that the aerodynamics of the truck and the weight will prefer a curve in the 47-49 range for best mileage...anything more and the power curve will fall off a bit...lower it, run a 10:1 engine and put 3.91's in the rear and that will be a different story.

I would keep your other distributor for spare parts for future mods, they aren't easy to get anymore.

-D.Idiot

That's good intel. Double tap here:
Typical rebuild
.040 over
Assume stock cam
833 of
3:55 rear gears
120-130 cranking psi
Carter bbd for now, maybe soon holley 390.
Basically stock tires (215/75-15?)
GM HEI
Mixed driving usually nothing over 55.
Edit: And for the curve, I usually don't get over 3k unless I play. 1550rpms I'm turning 55mph. So guess I'll have the 20mech in about 1800ish?
Edit 2: checked spring colors and chart that came w springs. I used yellow and blue which chart shows
2* at 1000rpm and all in at 1800.
May have forgot some but just figured I'd throw that in there to verify the intel or if there's other changes you'd make? As always DI comes w the good intel (secretly slides spare parts into hiding)

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

All mech in by 1800 should be a good safe spot (especially if you decide to make an emergency run at 70 mph at some time).

If you go holley you might want to get a little better cam and some more compression (timing curve may need to be revisited as the power to weight ratio changes... especially in a street 'torquer curve' )

-D.Idiot

So now I'm closing in on installing the turbo, I need to limit to 18* total. As I read through here it makes me want to go look for the other springs and the curve sheet I have/had.

I assume just change springs till I have all 18* in fairly low and let the vacuum can add the rest when needed for driving outside of boost?

Find me say an 11R can to push me up around 40 when cruise?