Hi guys, I am getting close to starting the truck and need help with my ignition.

Originally a 1986 lean burn system, I am wanting to install a points type dist just to get it started whilst looking for an electronic set-up. I may eventually go with an HEI but at this point I have little interest in that.


I have someone helping me thru e-mails get it wired correctly but there were a few questions he was uncertain of.

I have made a crude drawing of what I am assuming is how I need to wire all of this together, I have the ballast resistor shown which was removed from an electronic ignition early 70s dart, I was told...............I don't know the values of the resistors used in the various systems off the top of my head, but if you ask on the slantsix.org board someone should be able to answer the question. ..............

Can someone confirm this resistor will work for what I am trying to do?

He also told me ............Another thing I haven't mentioned is that the lean burn system used a different coil than the points system. You will have to get a coil that is intended for use with a points system. Again, ask on the board and someone should be able to recommend a good coil for you...............

So can one of you guys recommend a coil to use?

One last thing, can I buy a new electronic ignition dist still from Napa or the dealer, is there one version that might be better than another, I am having no luck finding one in the salvage yard and I would prefer to have one that isnt worn out.


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I don't think you'll find a person on here that will say go with points. There will be a lot that can help you wire it though. Trust me when I say the HEI is the way to go. You can go to the junkyard and pull all the parts needed except maybe the dizzy which needs vacuum advance mech in it. Sorry I couldn't be of more help, just wanted to try and pursuede you away from the points setup. Keep us posted.

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225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

I actually keep a "bolt in" points setup so I can quickly hotwire and move any mopar in a pinch if needed (just need what he has in the diagram above and the correct distributor-I have one slant six, one LA, and one B points distributor). I also keep this handy for other ersatz reasons in case of global conflict and the fact that our local police have EMP guns to knock out newer cars proms if you are considered excessively speeding (doing 100 will get you that treatment...and other fun prizes and time in lockup).

The picture should have "hot wire going to distributor" should be "hot wire with ignition on". Everything in the diagram looks good from there!



Good luck getting the rig to fire and move around until you are ready to wire in the better EI system.

-D.Idiot

Ok thanks guys, I understand everything mentioned.


At this point I need to know

1- Will the resisitor above work for what I am trying to do I.E does it have the correct resistance?

2- Since I cannot use the coil from my lean burn what coil is recommended.

Lastly are the electronic ignition dist. still avail thru Napa or dealer? Is there one version ( particular unit ) that might be better than another I should be looking for.

DusterIdiot I'm glad I'm not the only one that keeps a points distributor around for that reason.

Good choice to ditch the lean burn crap, I suggest a holley 1920 or a 1945 they are both good. Just don't get a remanufactured unit they are paperweights.

I got a points distributor for a 70 slant powered truck the switch to electronic was in 72. I got a electronic distributor for a 73 slant powered truck from autozone. HEI is the only way to go As fare as I'm concerned, no points to change, no ballast resistor to go bad.

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

I can't see the resistor you mention as my employer blocks many image hosting sites. Ask for a ballast resistor from any points-equipped Dodge which is most eveything '71 or older.
The lean burn coil isn't anything special and should work fine.
Yes, you can buy a remanufactured distributor just about anywhere, but the vacuum and mechanical advance you'll get are random.

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Joshua

With the resistor shown, in the direction shown, use the top two terminals.
The leanburn coil will be fine as said, infact, I still use my LB coil with my HEI module and no resistor. Been that way for years!

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

OK- I am the one who has been helping him. I thought that the points, EI, and lean burn coil had different resistance values and needed different rated ballast resistors to work. Have I been wrong all this time?

You should be able to get a NOS Mopar distributor from a reputable NOS parts dealer like Old Car Parts Northwest
1120 SW 16th St Ste 7,
Renton, Wa. 98031

Phone :206-300-1083

I have never known of a different resistor value for each of the systems myself. The only difference is between the dual and single resistor. the single resistor is aprox. 5 ohms. The value for the dual, coil side is aprox. 5 ohms IIRC, the value for the module side is 1.5, again if I recall correctly.
The lean burn systems still use the resistor as well. Maybe an expert ignition guy can fill us in for sure.

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

No, they don't. The coil is fed by a wire that is just a switched 12 volt lead. I have never seen a lean burn wiring diagram or vehicle that had a ballast resistor in the (+) to the ignition coil, and I have looked. Every lean burn wiring harness I have taken apart (and there have been several spanning several years of vehicle) have always had no resistor in the coil (+) feed circuit.

Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but I thought this meant that you needed to change the ignition coil when you switch from lean burn to any ignition type other than HEI, which also doesn't use a ballast resistor.

An ohm meter on a lean burn coil and a standard coil will settle the issue. I believe the ESC computer has active dwell control like HEI which is why there is no ballast resistor, but we'd need an oscilloscope to confirm that.

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Joshua

I can say for absolute certainty that some iterations of the Chrysler LeanBurn system, especially the earlier versions, did indeed use the standard Mopar ballast resistor. As example I submit a quick google searched picture,


This of course is a single pick up system with no carb control. This is the iteration used on my 400 B block, but I have seen this exact same one on slants as well. I could post pictures of my actual car, with the OEM parts in place, but I do not consider them as definet proof of application on a slant car.

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

OK- the early lean burn systems, yes. But the far more common 80s era lean burn systems did not use one. I know 1930 is working on a 1986 truck and his absolutely does not have a ballast resistor.

You could always ditch the resistor and go with a 3 ohm coil. It is a much cleaner setup!
I did years ago along with many other folks on this forum.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

That is what I thought he would have to do- wire in a resistor or get a different coil.