Sounds like you made progress.
Er.. no, no two slants or cars are exactly alike so what may work for one may drop another one dead in the water...if someone other than you does the recurve they need to know the timing your car is looking for and dial it in using these important questions:

year and model of car
engine build (compression, carb/exhaust and cam)
Transmission
Rear Gear ratio
Tire Size
average cruise speed on the highway

That will give the person the rpm band and how the car functions, without it you could get a distributor that is a drag race special or something that is no better than a stock curve.

-D.Idiot

I know it would be a long shot, but I wouldnt be agains giving someone who has modified them a chance. Or even just did the mod to the governer in the dizzy and left the vac pod and spring combo up to me. Its in a 78 wagon, stock 2bbl slant w/ HEI, 8.25" (10 bolt) w/ stock highway gears, a904 trans, stock converter, and 205/95/14 tires, compression is probably real close to stock, cam is stock, stock exhaust, so on and so on. Sees mostly in town, short trip driving, with a max speed of maybe 50-60 on the highway. Thats why Im so concerned about the part throttle/ off-idle hesitation. Makes it sketchy to pull out into traffic.

For a different question, I have heard these carter bbds are very touchy and dont do well on the jeeps for off-road and are very dependant on float level... Just how sensitive? I only ask because where I live might as well be a town full of off-road trails. The road I live on is steep, dirt, and very bumpy, the town is full of twists, turns, and hills... Im thinking this may be causing overly lean and overly rich conditions causing it to bog? Just a theory I had in my mind.
Would I be better off trying a different carburetor, like a holley 2bbl or something?

Being a big heavy wagon with highway gearing, an automatic and tall tires doesn't leave you with much for recurving all those options make your curve similar to a stock van or truck (slow to prevent ping). Until you can swap out for better gearing, and more engine to help move that brick, a faster curve will just ping trying to get it motivated. I would work on getting the carb's part throttle settings dialed in before working on the timing.

I think I'm the only one who spent time to offer the recurve service for the board, but am not longer in business at this time.

-D.Idiot

Cool, thats the kind of answer I was looking for thank-you. I dont have any pinging now, so I wont be screwing with any of that, dont need any more issues than I already have.

Im used to v8 cars lol, never had such an issue getting them dialed in, this slant is picky lol. Any suggestions I can try with the carb? Like slightly higher or lower float setting or accel pump setting or anything? Ive also read-up on the ethynol levels in pump gas now-a-days can cause lean off-idle conditions because of all the extra oxygen contained in the ethynol... Any one else heard of this?

oldskoolracer,

More compression did wonders for my heavy 3380 lb. car. It feels more like a 318 under the hood. If you choose not go that route, lower gearing is a good option. About the only things you can do is run a little more initial timing and big free flowing exhaust. They will really help under load. You really shouldn't be having that much problem in traffic or merging on to the freeway if the kick down is adjusted correctly.
They say the gas could do this if your running super lean but, if you have a very healthy accelerator pump shot it will help cover up a lean condition off idle. I have redone my circuit to provide a very healthy squirt.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I suppose increased compression would be an option some time down the road but for now its our daily drive and cant have it down for any extent of time. Ill play with a little more initial timing too, it runs on 91 octane so I should be safe from detonation with a bit more advance... Plan on upping the exhaust to 2.5" at some point already when I have the spare funds. Just removed the cat, and replaced the muffler, but still only 2" from the muffler back.

As for the accel pump shot, it seems strong, you can stab it and it goes but after holding the pedal at say 1/4-1/2 way for a moment it seems like it starts to starve and stumble... I suppose it sounds like its the best its gonna get until I can get a couple upgrades done to the car like exhaust and a lower gear set.

Ill have to double check the kick-down too I guess, the trans shop did the adjustment on that when they rebuilt the trans, I have felt that it would be a little more responsive if it kicked down sooner, just didnt want it to hang in a gear too long and have late shifting issues.

Just a little update... Been running good still, a slight hesitation is still there but at least it hasnt completely bogged out and died since Ive bumped the timing.

Realized I have never re-gapped the plugs since doing the HEI conversion so I will be doing that later tonight or in a day or two then bumping the timing up another 1-2* and see how that goes. Also on the "to-do" list is replace the intake/exhaust gasket with a remflex, and going to be adding an oil/air seperator to keep the cylinder burn a little cleaner.

I would try to get your egr working now. That was a good thing. it was designed to lower combustion chamber temps and sort of, in effect, up the effective octane of your fuel, as I understand it.

Sam

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Yea it lowers cylinder temps by introducing already burned gases back into the intake and basically contaminating the intake charge for less burn and lower tail-pipe emissions... Nothing I am concerned about, The dieseling/pinging issues ended up being a severely clogged exhaust, went away after getting rid of the old cat and muffler, and resetting the base timing.

Im pretty close to happy with it now, Its definately time to get a little more pep in the old girls step though. Trying to source out a shorter final gear for it, a mild cam, and upping the exhaust to 2.5" from the manifold back.

Just because I want to share, heres a couple older photos. This is before the power and ground upgrades, new carb, getting the fresh air hose back on and doing the fuel line mod... Will get a couple recent ones up soon

I have had the same troubles as you describe, and it is only a matter of adjusting your way out of it. I think that wear plus the removal of the EGR, and maybe other sources that uses vacuum, may upset the very fine balance the carb was designed for, to meet pollution equirements at the time. It usually demands an adjustment of the piston lifting the metering rods, beyond the factory settings.
The BBD for the Jeeps are totally different, and cannot be compared to Mopar versions. Among other issues, is the lack of a good idle circuit.

Have you checked that the zero mark on the balancer really show TDP?

In the pics:

You'll have a slight bonus when attaching the cold air hose from the air cleaner to the inner fender air inlet.

A correct breather connected to the nipple on the air cleaner, will provide some heated air to the internals of the engine during warm-up, while it - at least in theory - let the engine suck some gases back through the breather in circumstances when the pcv-valve is inactive. You should also check the pcv-valve, if stuck open it acts like a vacuum leak.

A very nice wagon!

Olaf

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Aspenized

Yea they are old pics, as of right now the fresh air hose to the fender is connected, and I have the original mopar style breather back in it. Engine has less than 10k on it, all hoses and PCV is new. Spared no expense when I did the engine.

Thanks for the compliment, I love this thing. Its actually my girlfriends, but me and this car have grown a special bond lol.

I didnt realize there was a huge difference in the jeep BBDs and chrylser BBDs. I knew there were some, but figured the use the same accel pump style as well as being ball+ball design carbs. It has been a long while since I have TDCed the engine to verify that.

UPDATE: I finally got the remflex gaskets on, made this thing way quieter, and forced me to readjust a couple things. Had to bring the idle up a little now that the vacuum leak was gone, reset the mixture screws, and upped the timing just a smidge more. Sounds good, smooth and seems to be handling the cold and the hills pretty damn well... So far-so good

Bringing it back to the top... I have recently switched to NGK UR5 plugs gapped at .045, checked the torque on the head bolts, and re-adjusted the valves, set them to .011 in and .021 ex... Had to re-adjust carb and timing again, and as last time did it by ear/ vacuum gauge. Car runs really good now!

Couple more questions though since I know you all love answering them... When you adjust your carb and timing, do you guys adjust it simply to RPM and factory recommended timing? Or do you adjust according to what sonds best or pulls the best vacuum at idle?

When running a stock set up, yes, use the factory settings. Since my motor is modified.......I like to use factory rpm setting but not the timing since I am going after mileage. As you may have read I use a lot more total timing, but at a very controlled rate. During the winter months I am at 56 degrees total timing and there is not even a hint of pinging.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG