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PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 2:35 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13030
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
FYI- much of the hot-rodder paranoia about ZDDP on older flat tappet motors is baseless, especially when you are dealing with a daily driver slant six. Unless you are building a very aggressive motor with high return spring pressures and aggressive cam profiles, you can just run regular motor oil and be happy.

I see you found the article I wrote documenting the differences between mechanical and hydraulic valve trains. When we broke in the "new" (reground) hydraulic lifters in my brother's engine after we swapped it to a mechanical cam, we used straight 30 weight for the break in and then switched to 5W-30. No problems ever since, and it has been over a year.

On a hydraulic motor there should be a fairly steady flow of oil out the tips of the rocker arms. If you are using the original rocker arm shaft and the original head, there is only one way to install the rocker arm shaft due to the stepped rearmost rocker shaft bolt. If the rearmost bolt went in then the shaft is oriented the correct way.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 4:10 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Apr 03, 2013 4:04 pm
Posts: 206
Location: Warsaw, MO
Car Model:
The FAQ you are seeking for is a 'sticky' at the top of the engine section here on the forum.
Here's a link: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38446

And I believe the article in the FAQ may be this one... http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29492

Best of luck!


Last edited by dartsport76 on Thu Dec 12, 2013 1:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 9:11 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:06 am
Posts: 295
Location: Clearlake, CA.
Car Model:
Quote:
FYI- much of the hot-rodder paranoia about ZDDP on older flat tappet motors is baseless, especially when you are dealing with a daily driver slant six. Unless you are building a very aggressive motor with high return spring pressures and aggressive cam profiles, you can just run regular motor oil and be happy.

I see you found the article I wrote documenting the differences between mechanical and hydraulic valve trains. When we broke in the "new" (reground) hydraulic lifters in my brother's engine after we swapped it to a mechanical cam, we used straight 30 weight for the break in and then switched to 5W-30. No problems ever since, and it has been over a year.

On a hydraulic motor there should be a fairly steady flow of oil out the tips of the rocker arms. If you are using the original rocker arm shaft and the original head, there is only one way to install the rocker arm shaft due to the stepped rearmost rocker shaft bolt. If the rearmost bolt went in then the shaft is oriented the correct way.
I do agree that its almost pointless on a street engine, but at least for break-in its good to have the extra insurance. I also used a conventional 30wt with the comp cams break-in additive. Then a conventional 10-40, and now running royal purple HPS 10-40 (no not necessary still but I apparently love spending money lol).

A hydraulic cam engine needs less protection than a hot rod engine, but some a lot of our slants are mechanical and I do feel they benefit a little from the extra ZDDP in the performance oils. Extra protection is extra protection, doesn't matter if its a econo-box grocery getter, or a full blown drag car, protection is protection...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 2:09 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
Quote:
FYI- much of the hot-rodder paranoia about ZDDP on older flat tappet motors is baseless, especially when you are dealing with a daily driver slant six. Unless you are building a very aggressive motor with high return spring pressures and aggressive cam profiles, you can just run regular motor oil and be happy.

I see you found the article I wrote documenting the differences between mechanical and hydraulic valve trains. When we broke in the "new" (reground) hydraulic lifters in my brother's engine after we swapped it to a mechanical cam, we used straight 30 weight for the break in and then switched to 5W-30. No problems ever since, and it has been over a year.

On a hydraulic motor there should be a fairly steady flow of oil out the tips of the rocker arms. If you are using the original rocker arm shaft and the original head, there is only one way to install the rocker arm shaft due to the stepped rearmost rocker shaft bolt. If the rearmost bolt went in then the shaft is oriented the correct way.
Thanks again Reed, it looks like all systems go for tomm morning, I have the valve cover off, I have read on here that there isnt any spraying so I figured with it off at least I could see when the oil was starting to move.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 2:10 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
Quote:
The FAQ you are seeking for is a 'sticky' at the top of the engine section here on the forum.
Here's a link: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38446

And I believe the article in the FAQ may be this one... http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29492

Best of luck!
Yes, now that you show me that is exactly where I had read it, with Reeds comment though I guess I have one less thing too worry about. Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 2:12 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:
FYI- much of the hot-rodder paranoia about ZDDP on older flat tappet motors is baseless, especially when you are dealing with a daily driver slant six. Unless you are building a very aggressive motor with high return spring pressures and aggressive cam profiles, you can just run regular motor oil and be happy.

I see you found the article I wrote documenting the differences between mechanical and hydraulic valve trains. When we broke in the "new" (reground) hydraulic lifters in my brother's engine after we swapped it to a mechanical cam, we used straight 30 weight for the break in and then switched to 5W-30. No problems ever since, and it has been over a year.

On a hydraulic motor there should be a fairly steady flow of oil out the tips of the rocker arms. If you are using the original rocker arm shaft and the original head, there is only one way to install the rocker arm shaft due to the stepped rearmost rocker shaft bolt. If the rearmost bolt went in then the shaft is oriented the correct way.
I do agree that its almost pointless on a street engine, but at least for break-in its good to have the extra insurance. I also used a conventional 30wt with the comp cams break-in additive. Then a conventional 10-40, and now running royal purple HPS 10-40 (no not necessary still but I apparently love spending money lol).

A hydraulic cam engine needs less protection than a hot rod engine, but some a lot of our slants are mechanical and I do feel they benefit a little from the extra ZDDP in the performance oils. Extra protection is extra protection, doesn't matter if its a econo-box grocery getter, or a full blown drag car, protection is protection...
Its already been dumped in the engine am I would still have taken the extra insurance, I dont want to give the machinest a single reason to point the finger at me if something goes wrong.

No matter what Im sure it will be my fault regardless though, you know how that goes


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