Hello again,

I'm about to install my turbo and want to find some sources for turbo piping, hose and clamps. What are some options for air filters? Cold air?

This is a Toad and space is limited. I did relocate the battery. However, I'm not afraid to cut, I will keep the work clean.

Cheers,
Barnaby

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These ones go to eleven...

I had a cool 2.5" aluminum cold side duct that had compound mandrel bends in it and wondered who makes this stuff. Is is done on the same machines that steel mandrels are bent on? Plus the finish of the AL ducting was like chrome. polish it and it shined, its light weight and looks great but I cant find a source either. Usually you just buy pieces and silicone elbows but the formed stuff looks so much better and more professional, not rigged like the straight stuff with elbows.

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I didn' t buy it, I built it.....

ebay has universal kits for around $90. there are many different finishes and colors of connecting hoses. look for the clamps that use a hex to tighten and not the standard screwdriver type.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

I used a universal kit from ebay. Also, find a local body shop to roll a bead on the pipes after you get them fitted and cut to length.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Thanks, I went with a universal kit from an on line vendor. If I do cut the pipes I'll flair the ends. I've only partially installed the kit. Hopefully I'll be done in a week or so.

Now that harvest is wrapping up I'll have time again.

Cheers,
Barnaby

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These ones go to eleven...

May I ask a silly question?

I see many turbo slants but they all have silicon hose connectors and clamps. A friend of mine has a 8.80 sec 1/4 mile truck with a procharger and he can't put anymore boost to it due to blowing off the hoses all the time. Is it just convienience or is it just too expensive to get it fabbed up as one pipe with positive clamps not hose clamps.

thanks

Mine have held with near 30PSI. Use a good clamp and have a bead rolled on. This causes a positive lock. Not sure if you will be able to get the silicone hose over a flared end.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

So far the kit I got from CXRacing is working well. It was accidentally ran at 16 psi once, but now is conservatively running at 6 psi.

I like the universal kit and its modular nature. I changed my original routing several time and probably will again. The couplers allow for easier servicing.

BT

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These ones go to eleven...

I used the cheap ebay kit works fine for me still

Kev

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DOrian to answer your question, the only reason to not run welded pipe all over is simply "Flexing". our cars are 98% daily drivers, now if say this was in a flopper body or full solid mount zero flex purpose built drag car then i would opt 100% for welded and bolted connections. but our cars no matter the engine, transmission, and frame mounts, wiggles and flexs and vibrates all the time, and that would put too much stress on all the solid and bolted connections to the point of them cracking and breaking.

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Thanks, that makes sense, and if they are holding for everyone then that is the route I will go