Basically when you pull it apart for cleaning, use a straight edge on the mating surfaces and see if they are indeed "flat" (you can use a thin feeler gauge to check between the straight edge and mating surface...say a .003 if you have one in your set).

The Idle Air Enrichment Valve can be left alone if you live anyplace below Denver, just leave it uncapped and it will not function for the flat landers and hill drivers...

The linkage adjustments and choke plate clearance can also be found in your rebuild kit instruction sheet (and you can change the adjustments to suit your vehicle as needed). My first carb to rebuild was a Carter BBD of a 1969 383, with no experiece I just took it apart and laid all the pieces in order that I disassembled it then cleaned each part and followed the instructions in the rebuild kit to reassemble and adjust...It's not that hard, just takes time.

Note that swapping parts sometimes works, or can be a disaster...this is why reman carbs have such a bad rep, they just throw a set of parts from 3 different carbs together and expect the thing to run.

-D.Idiot

This carb is different still than the carb that is shown in the 1945 manual I downloaded, the low idle speed adjustor screw for instance is not on the carb that I am working on and quite frankly I do not see how to adjust the idle speed.

I seen this before. Carbs that used the solenoid/plunger were not drlled and taped for curb idle screw.Just swap over the solenoid to this carb.

http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/showimage.aspx?gid=1618572&image=559737315&images=559737256,559737315,559737364,559737418&formats=0,0,0,0&format=0 This is the curb low idle screw. Some carbs do not have it.

The one that is not the fast idle screw you already have on your carb and is in the same area and orientation as the solenoid on your carb.

Yes To all questions except solenoid

Great, thanks, so whats the mistake with the solenoid?

The screw in front of the solenoid has no effect on the amount of travel of the solenoid plunger when the solenoid is engaged.

The two holes pointed to by yellow arrows are for the throttle cable and the automatic transmission kick down linkage. Throttle cable goes on the outboard hole, kick down linkage on the inboard hole. Throttle cable is held in place by a peg that passes through the hole in the carb and the hole in the bracket on the end of the throttle cable. The peg has a flange on one end to keep it from sliding all the way through the hole. On the other end of the peg is a small hole through which a voter pin is inserted to keep the peg from falling out. You will find diagrams of the connections in your factory service manual in the "fuel systems" chapter.