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 Post subject: Now for the front end
PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 4:29 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: Modesto CA
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Just wanted to know what im getting into .No shop has called back
so guess I will replace upper and lower ball joints myself.Its been a longtime
but from what I remember just need a pickle fork.Any thoughts?
Its a 63 dodge model 440.John

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 6:24 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 6:55 pm
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Location: Strasburg, VA
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No pickle fork - use a ball joint socket. A bodies up through 72 used the small socket, B Bodies from 62 through 72 and most A Bodies 73-76 use the next size larger - don't remember the exact size. I'm sure someone will chime in on the size.

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 Post subject: 73-76 size
PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 6:29 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
This is the 73-76 size: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sxt-10213/overview/


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 9:14 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 1:35 pm
Posts: 101
Location: Modesto CA
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Thanks guys, it was back in my pontiac days that I did one.Havent
pulled the maual out yet but so far it sounds easier than pressing in.

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 Post subject: Umm...
PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 7:53 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
No pickle fork - use a ball joint socket.
He will need both as he has to separate the balljoint from the spindle then he can attack the balljoint with the socket...the other method is to either fabricate or buy (expensive) a tool that wrenches into place between the LBJ and UBJ and pushes the studs out of the spindle. The problem with the pickle fork is it has a tendency to rip the grease balloon.

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 9:07 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14640
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
You can also just back the nut off some, use a pry bar to put some downward pressure on the spindle, and whack the side of the spindle with a hammer. It will pop the ball joint loose and not kill you.

Bottom one can be split the same way.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 5:53 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 1:35 pm
Posts: 101
Location: Modesto CA
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Well got the lower ball joint off had to take A arm off and still
cant get the upper loose? Its the left side did they reverse the threads
Guess I will let it soak overnight and try again using pipe wrench
cause nobody has socket.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 11:14 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2008 8:57 am
Posts: 150
Location: Edge of the World
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The UBJ is a bear to get off. Recommend that the arm be installed in the car and the appropriate ball joint socket used. I also use a very long cheater bar on the breaker bar handle to get enough torque to get the UBJ loose. By long, I'm talking 4-6 feet. Do not use a ratchet handle with the long breaker bar! Ask me how I know and why I like lifetime tool warranties.

If you have a Haynes manual, pay no attention to what it says about the ball joint being pressed into the arm. I don't know where that BS came from, but it's for sure they did not change one out on a 61-76 A-body when they prepared their manual.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 12:08 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
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Location: CA
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No left hand threads, all right hand. Did you separate the spindle from the upper joint already?

Your doing it with a pipe wrench? Ick. That's begging for busted knuckles. Even if you manage to get it out, how are you going to torque the new one on without a socket? These things are spec'd at over 100 ft-lb torque.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 3:21 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
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Location: Downeast Maine
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I made a tool that expands exerting force on ball joint stud, and a good stout tap with a hammer on the knuckle will separate the two. A few washers are need for shims and flipping retaining nut provides flat spot to mount tool.

Image

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 Post subject: Yep...
PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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The tool wjajr has is the tool shown in the Field Service Manual and works great except in the cruddiest rusty stubborn junkyard finds.

Last time I did my front end I believe I ended up using a 3/4" drive torque wrench at 150 ft/lbs to get the UBJ seated correctly...luckily I am tall and could wedge my legs behind the bumper or on a subframe rail to get more leverage...

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:51 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 6:55 pm
Posts: 1046
Location: Strasburg, VA
Car Model:
Quote:
The UBJ is a bear to get off. Recommend that the arm be installed in the car and the appropriate ball joint socket used.
I have a Craftsman HD 1/2" drive impact gun and it's never failed to unscew the upper ball joint. Yes I leave the UCA attached to the car.

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65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:16 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 1:35 pm
Posts: 101
Location: Modesto CA
Car Model:
Thanks guys I bought a socket which should do the job.

_________________
Since I bought my 63 my guitar
has taken the back seat.


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 Post subject: ball joint separator...
PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 11:23 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
IF you don't want to use a pickle fork, as Rob suggests, there are separators. Harbor Freight has one for $20, See: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarte ... 99849.html

I don't know if it's any good, but it appears pretty sturdy.

BG


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:54 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 1:35 pm
Posts: 101
Location: Modesto CA
Car Model:
All the info has helped thanks again now its off to get alignment

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Since I bought my 63 my guitar
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