Wasn't sure if I should post this in the engine or suspension, I suppose a K frame suspends the engine....

Anyway, I got a 73-76 K frame from the junk yard for my '67 dart so that I can use my later LCA's and sway bar (disc brake conversion coming down the pike eventually). I will clean it, firm it up etc., but how do I measure if the K frame is straight/correct? It took some damage to the bottom, typical not too bad, and everything "appears" straight, but how does one check this? Are there some measurements somewhere I can be pointed to? I don't want to send to FirmFeel for $400 refurb. I can do the cleaning, welds, etc, just need to know if the final product is true to specs. Perhaps that's really what one pays for from firm feel refurb?

thanks,

BG

I emailed what I have to you. That's about as good as the K-Frame measurements get in the Chassis FSM.

Hope that helps!

CJ

PS: You want V & L

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

But you're talking about the suspension more than the engine.......

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

thanks.

So, I got the 73-76 K frame from the scrap yard. Today I was cleaning it with my pressure washer and some degreaser...man there was a ton of crap inside that K frame! The open design, where the sway bar runs through, apparently picks up a lot of dirt, rocks and oil. I thought I had it clean, but then felt up inside the thing and there was like 1/2 inch of grease, dirt and rocks impacted in there. It took me nearly 2 hours, with a brush, degreaser, scrubbing and digging with various items, and pressure washer to get all that gunk out of the K frame. I think all said and done, I got like a pound of rocks/grease/dirt out of the inside of it.

Unlike my '67 K frame, this one has definitely seen better days, various spot welds have come loose, the bottom is pretty dinged up, and there were some seams that had separated and were filled with 1/8 inch of gunk.

On to stripping what's left of the paint, then removing all the rust, fixing it up with some welding/strengthening and then repainting. This will take me at least a couple more weeks, as Christmas vacation is over and I have to get back to work. Luckily my wife is studying to take the GMAT, so I'll have some time on the weekends...

bg

If people knew where you lived there might be a chance of getting a better one free or cheap! I bought one for $25 off www.moparts.com

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I wish I'd done that...anyway, I think this one is OK, it looks pretty decent now that I have it cleaned up. I'll take a closer look this weekend. If anyone has one for cheap (Rob) I might buy it anyway to compare, see which is in better shape before I start to refurbish...

I'm going to attempt (the first ever?) K frame swap without pulling the engine...

Let me know by PM if anybody has a nice one for cheap...

bg

You can lower the K with the engine attached, or raise the car.

And you live where? Shipping would make a K expensive.

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I've done this before with the whole smash...remove torsion bars, unbolt the UCA's, remove steering coupler, pull wiring and hoses, etc... put car high on stands then use jack to lower the K/engine/suspension....then have buddy with tow truck lift front of car (or a flatbed and remove the car) and roll it all out from under the car, put car down then have buddy use tow truck to put assembly on a furniture dolly and strap it down for mobility and storage....

-D.Idiot

I live in CA, SF bay area..

Anyway, I was contemplating swapping K frame while the engine is supported otherwise.

Like, put the car on jack stands, build a support structure for the engine, or suspend it from a cherry picker, crane or frame (also suspend the steering box and steering arms). Loosen and pull T-bars/LCA's, drop old K, install new K, motor mounts etc, reattach engine, LCA's, idler arm, etc...

Does this sound totally insane? Seems like its doable, so I don't have to detach all the engine wiring, drain the engine, all that jazz. If it's too crazy, I'll just pull the engine, but it seems doable...a slant six fully loaded weighs in the neigborhood of 450 pounds, right? I'm not talking about leaving it hanging for days or even hours, just enough time to swap out the K frame...

bg

If you pull it you can clean, re-gasket, and paint. Maybe flip it over and check the main and rod bearing clearances and conditions.

Digital camera, duct tape and permanent Sharpie to mark all your wiring etc.

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Be aware that you will now need a '68-72 style idler arm. The '67 mounts on a stud, your K takes a through bolt.

Buddy of mine built a dolly for dropping the motor, trans, and suspension all at once.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Be aware that you will now need a '68-72 style idler arm. The '67 mounts on a stud, your K takes a through bolt.

Buddy of mine built a dolly for dropping the motor, trans, and suspension all at once.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

And yes, your plan of lifting the car, supporting the engine from above, and just swapping the K should work just fine.

_________________
O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Yes, I have the newer steering arm, thanks Rob!

OK, so I finally had time to check the K frame after degreasing.

It looks like there were some previous repairs.

One of the corners welds were redone, and perhaps not aligned right, but you all tell me what you think. Here is the front corner that I'm concerned about.
http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... 9.jpg.html

As you can see, apparently this weld broke loose or cracked and it was rewelded at some point. The vertical support for that corner appears to be welded in a position lower than the bottom surface of the K frame. Here are the other corners, which appear better:

Rear corner on same side: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... 8.jpg.html

Front corner other side (corner of vertical support appears bent below original position): http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... 9.jpg.html

Rear corner other side (appears perfect): http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... c.jpg.html

As you can see, the surfaces that bolt to the frame appear to be flat and lined up pretty well, might be fine, just needs strengthened. I took these two pics at an off angle so you can see both surfaces; they appear to be aligned well. I would have thought if the vertical on the corner broke loose there would be a misalignment between these surfaces, so it might be that the vertical was welded low in the first place.

Side with the "bad" welds: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... a.jpg.html

Other side: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... 7.jpg.html

Also, is this area where the radiator support bar bolts supposed to be flat with the rest of the metal or bent out of plane as it is? http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... 4.jpg.html

The steering box welds all appear to factory except on one corner, right side of this pic, http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... c.jpg.html

and there are no cracks that I can find. I'm still cleaning it up. I'm at the derust stage. The motor mounts appear straight: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... d.jpg.html

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... f.jpg.html

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... a.jpg.html

The idler arm bracket is a little bent, no big deal. http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... c.jpg.html

Finally, FYI, I can't say enough about Evaporust, check out this trans support after soaking for a few days...I couldn't get the top portion into the 5 gallon bucket, so I'll flip it over today.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... e.jpg.html

If anyone is interested, Evaporust, though they try to keep this a secret is just EDTA (ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid). Evaporust costs like $25 per gallon, but you can buy EDTA in bulk on Ebay for like $40 for 5 pounds (which is enough to make tons of evaporust solution). I plan to try a recipe. Basically you put it in water, then add some base to adjust the pH to just above neutral so the diamines are freed up to grab the rust. More to come on that.

BG