My brakes are the stock 9" 4 wheel manual drums. What I have done is change the master cylinder because of a leaky secondary piston rear seal (I think). Whichever one leaks at the firewall. Well I had one with the short piston rod. The new one was a different design and I had to use a long piston rod from a Charger. Now the brakes don't release as soon as I lift off of the pedal, they hang up for 5-7 seconds after I release the pedal. This annoying and inefficient, I need a solution. If there is anything I failed to explain let me know.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

You'll probably need to adjust the brake light switch so the pedal sits a little higher or get an adjustable pushrod.

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Joshua

Well that's one concern. The big one is the brakes hang and I have no pedal reserve when in stop and go traffic.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Problem number one is that you got the wrong master cylinder and introduced a number of variables. With this little bit of new information it sounds as though you may have a power brake master cylinder with a smaller bore. Smaller master cylinders displace less fluid and will give less pedal effort, but also more pedal travel. The pedal travel issue is handled in an A body by the linkage ratio. Start with the proper master cylinder and troubleshoot from there.

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Joshua

None of my business, but I'd lose that 9" drum set-up. They're not even really adequate on the older, "narrow" A-bodies, let alone anything bigger, especially if you have done or are planning to do any performance upgrades. More "go" needs more "stop". Even when properly maintained, the 9"-ers are very susceptible to brake fade on long and/or steep down grades.

I swapped front discs and an 8-1/4" rear with 10" drums onto my '71 Dart: big improvement. Made more sense to me than throwing money at the stock 9"-ers: safer and more cost-effective in the long haul. Plus you end up with the large bolt circle (same as Ford) and a wider selection of wheels and tires to choose from.

But it's your dollar...or maybe your car is a daily driver that needs back on the road ASAP.

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

I'll post a pic of the MC when I get home. In the future I will do manual discs and 10" rear drums on a 8 3/4" axle.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

There are some adjustable push rods available but like the previous response suggested, start with the right MC.

Here's a link to 2 adjustable rods. Get ready, their pricey.

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53388

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Super Six Conversion Stromberg

This is the style of MC that was on there originally

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0358748365

This was the replacement for it that I received

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0358914593

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.