Hello, I have a 64 valiant signet 200 two door with the 225 leaning tower of power. I have the car running pretty dang good. The only thing left to fix is the stumble or dieing when it is warm and I give it the gas. I have to give it a double squirt to get it to take off right. I have replaced the accelerator plunger twice and jacked around with the linkage settings. It is driving me nuts!! (short trip). Any feedback is appreciated. I love this site!!

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Have a nice day : )

Sounds like a Carter carb?
Are the passage ways really clean?
any corrosion on the exit?
How heavy a squirt do you see when you pump it manually?....with the engine off and looking down the throat......

You may want to snake some hard "Mason" mono-filament fishing leader through those passages and spray them out again. With this ethanol based fuel the passage may corrode up and reduce the pump shot.

Hopefully the plunger is not ripped. I always install them with some light oil so they don't tear. Is the plunger bore nice and smooth? Check ball in place?

You can down load the manual from the Engine FAQ Carb section.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks Ted, I will check out the manual, reman carb so not even sure if it has a "check ball" and will check the passages. Sounds like I just need to pull it off and go through it carefully. the plunger is good. The squirt is a little wimpy so something is not quite right. Would love to find a good carb ready to go for like 50 bucks?? is that possible??

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Have a nice day : )

I have a theory on this, because mine has the same issue, and has had the same issue through 2 carburetors now.

My theory is carburetor tuning. My thought here is that these carbs were built and tuned in a day that fuels had a little more octane in them as well as substantially less ethanol which adds quite a bit of extra oxygen to modern fuels. So the designers between Carter and Chrysler designed and assembled these carbs with jets, metering rods and spring, pump nozzles and factory adjustments with the early richer fuels. which may have worked well then, but is causing premature accel pump failures as well as part throttle lean conditions.

Again this is just s theory of mine, and being as I have just the one car as a daily driver right now, no extra carbs or parts, I cant try different jets and rod combos to verify if a richer mixture cures it. I assume that getting a larger squirt from the pump would require extensive modifications to the squirters and nozzle assembly.

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

Octane is octane. A fuel rated for one octane today will have the same octane as the fuel rated at the same octane back in the 70s or 60s, so long as the same octane measurement procedure is used.

You guys are remembering to set the metering rod height, right? The metering rod setting is an often overlooked setting on the BBD but it plays a critical role in getting the mixture right. BBDs are are also notorious for developing throttle shaft leaks. Check your throttle shaft for play. Finally, be sure you have the vacuum advance for the distributor hooked up to the right port on the carb.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I guess I didn't particularly mean the octane was higher, but the oxygen content in today's fuel is higher due to the ethanol levels. In my application, YES, everything is set to "factory", from accel pump level, float level, step-up piston adjustment, throttle shaft bushings and even set the carb according to SlantSixDans write up. Again, 2 carbs down and same issues. Starts and idles perfect, but stalls at part throttle. I just don't know what to think when any and all settings you try on something, be it factory, or just on a whim, and get 0 improvements. Have tried all different timing settings from 0* up to the factory 12* recommendation, doesn't fix the stumble, but affects idle, and causes pinging if I run the timing in the higher advance range.

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

Have you verified that the vacuum advance can on the distributor (a) is hooked up to the right port on the carb and (b) is still holding a vacuum? Have you verified that the vacuum choke pull off is still holding a vacuum?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Again, my situation, yes, yes, and yes. Nothing on this car has been overlooked, all nuts, bolts, hoses, diaphragms, gaskets, and seals have been checked, tightened or replaced as necessary, holds a constant steady 18" of vacuum, valves set to .011 and .021, (tried .010/.020-.012-.022).

Things that have been tried: various idle mixtures from extremely rich to extremely lean, affects the idle speed and quality, but not any real improvement on stumbling. Tried higher and lower float settings, higher and lower accel pump settings, no affect on idle and no improvements on part throttle.

I have read several posts about this, mostly with the BBD and a couple posts about the BBS carbs as well, seems to be pretty consistent with results being that it never gets fixed. Or at least nobody takes the time to post what they did to remedy the issue.

Don't mean to hi-jack a thread either, just getting overwhelmed on how many people have this exact issue, all on seemingly "fresh" slants with Carters on top and never any answers or real suggestions beside the basic "check the factory settings". Again, good luck my friend and for the sake of all humanity PLEASE oh please share what fixed it.

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

All I can say is I have had lots of experience with BBDs and have always been able to cure or at least diagnose any problem with hesitation on acceleration. It could be you are squirting too much gas into the carb on acceleration. Too rich of a pump shot can cause a stumble too.

Its hard to diagnose a carb over the internet.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Yea, Internet diagnosis is about as easy as over the phone (I work at a part store so I get it all day long). Too big of a shot would do that, but wouldn't "double pumping" the throttle make it worse if that were the case? I have never had so much trouble tuning ANYTHING in my life (beside my electronically controlled mechanical fuel injected 89 Golf GTI lol), but this is my first runaround with a slant, and first BBD. I have personally given up on trying to eliminate the issue, she runs and drives so we have learned to ignore the stumble lol

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

Welcome to the forum, 1964 Signet 200!

Back to the OPs question. Some on the forum will tell you that those remans are only worth scrap value. Personally, I've only got experience with NOS carter BBSs. On those carbs the acc. pump has a slotted cover whose height can be adjusted. I'd try a few settings and see if that helps, small changes make big differences.

Is off-idle acceleration your only symptom? Does it hesitate if you give it gas around a corner? How about if you step on it while cruising?

As for $50 carbs, might try finding something rebuildable at a junkyard.

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'66 Dodge Dart

I agree with Josh, whether it is a Holley or Carter try to eliminate any slop in the linkage and if possible increase the throw. I have always been able to tune them for more squirt to match the increased initial timing settings that I prefer to run. Do make sure the accelerator pump passage way is not partially corroded especially on the outlet.
I have seen some throats so full of carbon they are no longer clean or look like aluminum. I have seen some carbs run so rich they back fire....and turn the throats black with carbon. This can cause corrosion which can result in blockages.

I try to keep mine super clean with a little Seafoam and carb cleaner. I know running the air/oil separator sure has helped reduce the gunk going into the intake and potential back fires.......

Click on the red link below to view photos of the throat.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I will check the passages and dink around with the linkage settings. Maybe run some carb cleaner fuel additives through the tank and see if that helps. I would love to get a fuel injection bolt on setup but like my total stocker setup. I have a nice clean survivor. Just need the buckets reupholstered and am good to go. Little bit of rust in a few places but not a big deal. Starts and runs good, just has the stumble sometime coming from a dead stop. Runs great and has good pickup once it is moving and I punch it. I can squeal a tire sometimes, I love the slant six and the whole car. Best 1400 dollars I have spent. I get a lot of interest in the car. Most people think it is really cool but there are a few guys who know where a Valiant was ranked back in the day with the Cudas and Roadrunners. Never been stranded and is a breeze to drive. That's why the old ladies and students loved it so much.

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Have a nice day : )