I'm getting ready to replace the clutch pivot bearings on my 84' D150 you can see in the pic on one side the nylon split bearing is bad. I emailed www.brewersperformance.com to see which torque shaft service kit is the right one for my truck...does anyone know?

It looks like i should just have to remove a few bolts and clips to remove the torque shaft from the truck to service it. Any advice will be appreciated!

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1984' Dodge D150 Utiline Bed
Slant 6 225, Holley 1920 Carb
A833 4 Speed O/D Transmission

Torque shaft service kit is standard for all A-833OD, an include the nylon bearings for both sides, the spring steel clips and the rubber grommets to cover the ends to keep dirt out of the grease in the pivot bearings.

Brewer's lists it at the top of the page for the Torqueshaft service kit, less the ballstuds.

http://www.brewersperformance.com/prodd ... p?prod=CSK

You will remove the driver's side pivot bracket and spring clips for the throwout rod and clutch pedal rod, remove the spring clip from the shaft, remove eveything from inside, and clean it out, clean both ballstuds. I insert a finger full of general purpose axle grease into each end for future lubrication, I put a fingertip dob of grease in the bearing shells for the ballstuds to ride on, then reassemble everything. Pretty easy. Clutch actuation will feel a little easier once all that is back in.

Good Luck,

-D.idiot

Thanks for the info D.I.,

Does the ball end of the ball stud sit in the middle (cupped) part of the split bearing? If so, do you think the ball end on the bad bearing side is probably worn and will need to be replaced?

I don't know how long the truck has been this way i've been driving it like this for the last 4 months...

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1984' Dodge D150 Utiline Bed
Slant 6 225, Holley 1920 Carb
A833 4 Speed O/D Transmission

Yes the ball of the stud sits in the "cup" in the split nylon bearing. You will have to physically inspect the ball and bearing to see if the bearing half is shot and the ball is just riding on the inner sleeve of the torque shaft.

In many cases in late cars the pedal pressure feels stiff because the ball and nylon bushing are stuck from garbage, rust, caked lube and the torque shaft is moving around them instead...

-D.Idiot

I've been looking for the half of a pivot bearing I misplaced but
since reading this thread wonder if maybe I shouldn't just get a
kit and service it now...

Thanks!

-DCello

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You mean there's a Slant Six FORUM!?

It wouldn't be a bad idea to service it before the ball stud wears on the torque shaft and wallows it out like it did mine...about 40% of the ball stud had worn off! There's no telling how long mine was driven without a pivot bearing on that side

I have to say the OEM style pivot bearings are better and if you can still get them? I would! The nylon replacements will work, but i don't think they are near as good. I ended up reusing the one good OEM bearing and using one set of the bearings from the kit

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1984' Dodge D150 Utiline Bed
Slant 6 225, Holley 1920 Carb
A833 4 Speed O/D Transmission

The half I have from the inner (bell housing) side
sure looks like (white?) nylon - and it's more worn
than I would have noticed if I hadn't lost the other
half!

I guess the Dodge dealership will tell me they don't have
the OEM ones anywhere... Guess Monday I'll call the folks
who have the other kit and ask if they know...

Carquest warehouse here had no idea.

DCello

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You mean there's a Slant Six FORUM!?

They will try to sell you one of two linkage kits at exorbitant prices (DCC-4529447 or DCC-4529489)...I have ordered the 447 kit in the past and the bushings are the same as the brewer's kit... For OEM you will buy NOS..being over 30 years old the NOS bushings can be stiff and crack).

just 2 cents,

-D.Idiot

So go ahead and get the kit they have - i.e. one of those
numbers will fit the 447 and thus my 445/etc linkage or
could I order the 447 kit elsewhere for less?

I did get a standpipe from Collectors Auto Supply - spring
was a lot stronger.

Checking here I didn't see the kit listed:
http://www.collectorsautosupply.com/que ... ion=CLUTCH

I'll call Brewer and Collectors tomorrow and ask I guess...
just thought I'd check to see if you'd feel like clarifying.

Really appreciate the reply regardless.

-DCello

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You mean there's a Slant Six FORUM!?

hi sl6 sages- have an interesting story for those who have done this job or are contemplating it. backin 93 my 77 aspen wagon(sl6 + 4spd od) had 260k and i replaced engine with a reman long block from recon in philadephia. while taking everything apart i noticed the bearings in the torque shaft where totally shot . shaft was wobbling which i concluded explained the occassional change in the clutch height and a binding sound when actuating the clutch. had to buy a new torque shaft which cost 39 then, plus bearing kit for 10. the bearings were so bad the inside of he pedal lever end was actually worn thin into an egg shape. typical shyster welder said for 200 he would weld in steel thereand rebore shaft. said to hell with that clip attempt . reassembled all and slopped in two fingers of wheel bearing grease. also noticed the new shaft had a threaded hole in the center for a zerk fitting. no more problems ; smooth clutch actuation. just goes to show you that what captain braddock said in 54 is still true to wit- there are those who will pat you on the back with one hand and pick your pocket with the other and remember it can happen toyou. bet not one sage on this forum can remember who braddock was. best regards paladin.

... Captain John Braddock, a fictional detective working for the San Francisco, Racket Squad, an American TV crime drama series starring Reed Hadley ...

hello doctor dougmo- have asked that question for years and no one knew the answer even the ones who are early baby boomers like me. maybe i watched too much tv in the 50s.
actually i think the torque shaft for the clutch was the best design because it seemed to last the longest. the cable and hydraulic clutch actuators are lousy and dont last near as long. 240 volvo im driving now has a cable clutch which i expect to bust at the worst possible moment late at night on tobacco road which is why i carry a spare one under the seat. been looking for a stickshift f body for years now to replace my 77 which rusted to hell. seems they have disappeared like ford falcons . keep up the good work my friend. paladin

So you could drill and tap a hole for a zerk fitting in an old
torque shaft so you could grease it once in a while?

I know it's an obvious question but...

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You mean there's a Slant Six FORUM!?

R&R'd a clutch in a little Fiat spyder in 93 or so... took off
to Ocean City, MD and half a mile from the Bay Bridge the
brand new clutch cable popped off it's track (presumably
my fault!) - luckily - Feeble Italian Attempt at Transportation,
I'd become used to this sort of thing by that time and carried
a full tool box and full size floor jack in the trunk!

Matched gears over to one of those outlet store parking
lots, set the cable right, and kept on gettin' it....

I eventually came to my senses of course and moved on
to other ... rides.

-DCello

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You mean there's a Slant Six FORUM!?

yes you could cello, in fact the later manufactured shafts had the hole already tapped for a zerk fitting. know b/c i simply screwed one into the new torque shaft. later saw these later shafts and they were full of grease. should have gone to a yard first. good luck. paladin