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 Post subject: engine oil
PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 4:15 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:28 pm
Posts: 37
Location: SC
Car Model:
What brand and viscosity is everybody using?

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81 LeBaron Salon,88 5th ave,79 Aspen SE wagon,79 W150
Don't worry, nothing is going to be alright.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 4:26 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 5:56 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: TEXAS
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http://www.slantsix.org/forum/search.php

type in: OIL

I personally use : Mobil Super High Mileage 10W30

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1964 Dart GT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 6:50 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
You will get lots of varying answer depending on the age of the motor.

I have an old 1979 SL6 never been touched that is close to 300,000 and I run Mobile 1, 15-50W synthetic in it.

I also have a new rebuilt SL6 engine that I run Mobile 1, 0-30W synthetic.

Lots of 10-40W Rotella T users here too.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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 Post subject: My daily driver
PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 9:20 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 658
Location: Cincinnati
Car Model:
I have a 72 Valiant with 68,000 original miles. Its all stock inside but has had the super 6 conversion done with larger exhaust that has made a nice increase in power. I have pretty much settled on house brand full synthetic 5w30 from major auto parts stores usually from NAPA or Mobil 1 when it goes on sale. Some retail department stores carry the 5 quart containers that come in under $25 for full synthetic for 5 quarts.
So I am trying to say that I look for a full synthetic (no particular brand) at a reasonable price. They have not let me down so far and the engine stays spotless inside! I also attribute that to regular maintenance as well.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:37 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:06 am
Posts: 295
Location: Clearlake, CA.
Car Model:
Royal Purple HPS10/40 full synthetic here... Low mile rebuilt super six in a 78 Volare :D

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 11:25 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13063
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
5W-30, any API approved brand, I like Mobil 1 synthetic when I can get it. There is no point in running a heavier oil than your climate and/or engine clearances need.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:47 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:28 pm
Posts: 37
Location: SC
Car Model:
That is my problem,the fsm says in my climate 30 or even 20w50.I have never thought thin oil was good in these old engines.

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81 LeBaron Salon,88 5th ave,79 Aspen SE wagon,79 W150
Don't worry, nothing is going to be alright.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:35 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13063
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Use the viscosity the factory service manual recommends for your temerature range and operating conditions. That may very well be 20W-50 if your temps never get below zero Fahrenheit. You should use the thinnest oil possible. Improved power and fuel economy comes with thinner oils. Unnecessarily thick oils cause higher levels of parasitic drag in the engine.

I usually run 5W-30 in everything, but now I might switch up to 20W-50 since I never see temps below 25 degrees.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 2:34 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:58 pm
Posts: 569
Location: New Jersey USA
Car Model:
You should run the thinnest oil that will still give you adequate oil pressure at hot slow idle. The reason is that on engine start up a thinner oil will build pressure faster & flow everywhere sooner- thus reducing wear due to metal-to-metal contact.

Most synthetic oils flow better at cold temps & have more stable viscosity when hot than conventional oils. The house brand synthetics work fine for most daily driver cars. (race engine, turbo builds, etc, - might want to go with a "name-brand")

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl


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 Post subject: Engine
PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 8:34 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 10:50 am
Posts: 660
Location: Stevensville, ON
Car Model:
Richard Widman (author of the Corvair Oil Article) recommends using Heavy Duty Engine Oils in older engines with flat-tappet cams.

The oil recommendation my 1965 Valiant owner's manual includes 30-grade (10W-30 for year-round use) and 40-grade oil (20W-40 when temperatures are consistently above 32°F).

I installed a hemi oil relief valve spring (75 psi) years ago to ensure that my bearings get the maximum flow of engine oil. Even during the hottest weather here in Ontario (over 90°F), I found that using 15W-40 will result in 50+ psi at idle and 75 psi pressure above idle in my 189,000 mile original engine. With the original oil spring, much of the flow with 15W-40 would blow-off back to the sump.

Unless your oil is running so hot that you need a 40-grade (15W-40, 10W-40, 5W-40, 0W-40) to maintain good oil pressure, stick with a 30-grade (10W-30, 5W-30, 0W-30) HDEO to minimize engine wear.

_________________
1965 Plymouth Barracuda,
225 engine, Quadrajet, HEI, Dutra Duals, 904 Torqueflite, 2.76:1 axle, Addco front bar
Rods & Relics - Fort Erie, ON / Collector Car Tech


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