Late A-bodies, and pre-1972 B/C bodies I think will have what you need, after 1972 the big cars went to the rubber spring isolator you find under the F-body, not sure if the trucks have a plate that would work correctly.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4120074/overview/

Search under "leaf spring perches".

A couple other things to note on the Jeep axle...Jeep interchanged between the Dana and the Chrysler rear up until recently, both look similar under the donor vehicle until you look at the guts and the configuration.

Note also that in 1997 the Chrysler 8 1/4" went to 29 splines on the axle shafts, so make sure if needing a sure grip or parts you know the cut off in years for your junkyard axle (which might be a better choice since certain types of locker are only available in that spline count...i.e. Tru-Trac).

To answer the questions I typically just went down to the yard with my bucket and a tape measure..

Good Luck,

-D.idiot

SpaceFrank

I had completely forgotton about this post,, I did no additional work on the 8.25 swap as I walked into a great deal on an A body 8.75 rear,.

It looks like DI is on this and he is a fine source.

It shouldn't be hard to redrill the u-bolt holes to the size you need, I've done this a few times recently.

I can get weld-on spring perches at my local NAPA auto parts store, or here: http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Performance ... 4/10002/-1

_________________

So is the 93 Cherokee xe 8.25 a direct bolt-in for an f-body like my Volare? Have a chance to snag one with a 3:55 posi for a song. But gotta act fast!

Not a direct bolt-in; you're going to need to weld on new spring perches. I don't know the exact spacing on the Cherokee axle, but the one I grabbed was hung under the leaf springs, i.e. it had the perches on top. I imagine the F-body axle sits on top of the leaf springs like it does on the A-body, so it needs spring perches on the bottom of the axle. I got mine here:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Performance ... 4/10002/-1

Be aware that if you're welding on new spring perches, you need to be sure to get the pinion angle correct. From the research I did for my swap, I found out that you basically have to match the pinion angle to the transmission output shaft angle. These two shafts should be parallel. So the drive shaft itself makes the same angle with the transmission output shaft that it does with the rear end pinion shaft. Like so:

[front of car]
/ <--transmission output
| <--drive shaft
/ <--pinion shaft
[back of car]

Down is to the left, up is to the right.

The way I did it was to set the axle in place on top of the new spring perches without welding anything, set the angle with an angle gauge and a floor jack (under the front of the differential housing) and tighten up the U-bolts. Once everything was tight and I verified the angles again, I welded the perches to the axle tubes. This was a mild pain in the ass to weld while everything was in the car, but I figured it was the easiest way to make sure the angles were right.

The Cherokee 8.25 axle is only an inch or so wider than the F-body 8.25, so clearance should be fine with stock wheels.

_________________
Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing