My left turn signal just stopped working. The right one still works, but the left one simply stays lit, doesn't blink. Is there a separate relay for right and left, or how does this work?

thanks all,

Bg

The first thing that occurs to me is a burned out bulb on the left side. The original type flashers work by heating up when current to the bulbs is high enough to trip them. A burned out bulb on one side can (I say Can) result in too little current to trip the flasher.

A wire that's gotten disconnected or a bad ground can (see above) do the same.

Let us know when you find the problem.

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

The bulbs on the driver (left) side are working but remain lit, no blinking. The passenger (right) side works normally, I can hear they relay clicking under the dash for right signal, but nothing when I try the left signal. Is there just the one relay? If so, then it wouldn't work for one side and not the other, right? The bulbs are lighting, just not blinking...

further thoughts?

bg

Yes, it's just one flasher for both left and right. There are two flashers in the car, but the second is for the emergency circuit, not the turn signals. Speaking of which, when you activate the emergency flashers does everything flash as expected?

In your case its either the switch or one of the bulbs. If one of the bulbs has a poor ground it can remain lit but not pass enough current. Make sure your checking all the signal bulbs - dash, front grill, rear tail light. One filament of the tail light can be working but not the other.

one side of the flasher is not working

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81 LeBaron Salon,88 5th ave,79 Aspen SE wagon,79 W150
Don't worry, nothing is going to be alright.

I'll start with the flasher, if that doesn't work I'll dig into the bulbs' connectivity. Right now all the bulbs are lighting, just continuously.

thanks everyone, I'll report back.

bg

I swapped out the flasher and both turn signals work now.

Which begs the questions:

1. Does the flasher have two circuits and one was burned out?
2. Did my driver side recently develop a ground issue so that it doesn't trip the old flasher?
3. Was there always a (acceptable) lower current flow on the driver side and the old flasher just deteriorated enough that it couldn't function on the driver side's current level any longer?

I'd love to hear anyone's thoughts on this.

My original flasher lasted almost 50 years, I wonder how long the $3 one made in Taiwan will last....it is quieter, but I kind of liked the tell tale (loud) sound of the old flashers. I'll miss it.

bg

There is only one circuit in it.

These flashers pulse based on the current passing through them, there is a minimum threshold. As far as the car goes both sides of lights are symmetric. Your new flashers threshold is less then your old one. Something on your left side isn't allowing as much current flow, but is allowing enough for the bulbs to illuminate. Could be the switch itself, the bulbs aging, connection...

As far as how loud they are - if you get an electromechanical type (stock are considered thermal type) they are inherently louder. Part# EL12. They make them in an extra-loud version too. These are hanging in the parts store aisles next to the fuses, not behind the counter.

The disadvantage of these - when the flashing rate slows or stops with the thermal flasher you know you have an issue. The electromechanical type always flash at the same rate regardless of load. I like them though because I have a thing for loud clicky signals.

Yes, I remember fondly riding around in various '60's auto's back when I was a kid and hearing that tell tale turn signal clicking away. Now with the new flasher, I keep looking down to see if the thing is actually working...

bg

My local (Roxbury) auto parts guy told me there are 2 flashers available for my 70's Darts. He is a "Auto Value" chain affiliate, so he sells Tridon brand. Tridon makes the standard flasher #552, or the "heavy duty" #536. Recently one of our '75 Darts started having flasher issues, so I put in a new 552, that lasted 10 days (made in China). I put in a 536 heavy duty and no problems since. I have to admit though, that the real root of the problems could be developing corrosion issues in the wiring connectors. P.

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

My turn signals just stopped working on my '74 Duster yesterday and when I turn them on they just light up with no flashing for both the right and left sides, so I stopped by the auto parts store and got a new flasher and put it in when I got home.
And still had the same non flashing problem? All of the lights seem to be working? When I turned on the emergency flashers I could hear the flasher but had no lights on?
The above happened before I replaced the flasher and after I replaced the flasher and turned the emergency flashers on I got nothing at all?

It was getting dark and I didn't have a lot of time to miss with it and will check some more when I get off work today.

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06 Dakota Quad Cab 4.7 HO
Airaid Intake, 50 Series FlowMaster Muffler.
Fastman 68.5 TB
Bed Extender
03 Neon SE
AEM Cold Air Intake, 80 Series FlowMaster Daul Outlet Muffler
1974 Duster w/318 (needs lots of TLC)
1974 Duster W/225

I went with the 2 minute one over the 1 minute one, whatever that means. I think it was the 536 over the 552. Good so far, but it's only been a week...

bg

Tuff - like mentioned above something is likely loose or corroded. Since both sides are affected I'm thinking its something towards the switch. Wiggle the turn signal switch connector while you have the lever in one of the signaling positions. I've had to pinch the female connectors before so they had a tighter fit on the male ones.

A worn directional signal switch will cause all sorts of strange light problems. Just about every lighting circuit passes through the directional switch. What happens is the contacts become worn & sloppy, and won’t make good positive contact.

One quick test one can perform is to turn on whatever is causing a problem and gently pull directional switch lever in direction of steering wheel, and see if that action solves the problem.
If the switch is not working, you may find replacing it is the most economical and reliable solution.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC