Not bad if considering the flywheel is in the equation, a Ram ceramic disc for a common mopar big block application is in the high $400 range...spec clutches shipped are in the $350 range...

McCleod being a known good setup, i would have paid $700 for the setup instead of buying a couple of Spec clutches, if McCleod had them available at the time.

-D.Idiot

We had about $500 or $525 in the McLeod,clutch, Pressure plate & flywheel setup that we put in Ryan's dart and that was 11 years ago. $700 sounds like a lot on the surface, but if it is from McLeod and it works you will be happy for a long time. Your feet will thank you too. Just ask the Spec guys how discouraging it is to install a new "race" clutch and pressure plate, and then have it fail almost out of the box. It is no fun at all.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

TWICE!!!!

I have to look at my notes but the clutch /pp/flywheel has been in the volare for 2 years now.. no drag passes.. no 300 hp + motor but reliable Pittsburgh hill starts with a heavy f body car. no issues yet.

great pedal feel etc.

I would have to get my notes out to see how many miles... but probably not a lot. I have a short drive with lots of stops.. that kind of stuff wears out a clutch more than miles.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Multiple times.

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Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

Well dang. Im sold.

Howdy Gentlemen,

I installed a clutch in the 'Brick from Hemi Performance for last week's ANRA meet (the Spec finally discorporated fully, and I gave up on it). It's sold as a direct replacement for a slant, but is actually 9.5", and has three mount screw holes that need new flywheel holes (three fit existing holes). This was easily done by hand after mounting the first three, requiring only counter boring for the shoulder, and through drilling & tapping for the threads.

Though it's a much beefier unit than Spec's, a stock TO bearing & carrier can be used if the arm's pivot mount is raised to compensate for their diaphragm fingers being closer to the disc than a stocker is, .250" should do it. They do sell a matched bearing carrier for it, but not cheaply.

Their ads claim up to 40% more pressure using the full disc version as I purchased, and the pedal & operation certainly back that up so far. It may be a bit of a strain on a stock bell crank (Z-bar), and need re-inforcement there. I don't hammer launch, so can't address that technique, but the unit handled my three runs (including new speed & et records for my car) over the weekend with no sign of any initial fade.

Cost for their can, spring & pressure plate unit, disc, and their bearing (does not fit a stock carrier), delivered, hits about 3.5 bills. Not bad at all, given the capabilities of it. They also sell a pucked version, for a bit more of course, but if the unit I chose lives up to it's claims I'll have no need for that one.

I'll post up further impressions after next weekend's antiques meet at the Pit, I should get four or five more runs on'er there.

_________________
Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

Sounds good, Dick. Thanks for the test results and the post.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Sorry, Gentlemen, I forgot to post the update I'd promised. So here's the latest.

Still running the Oz clutch, no sign of any fading as yet, and the season's about over (only one meet left now).

At last weekend's Eagle Field meet we put 10 runs on'er, and with the better grab I've been hitting second a bit harder. On one of my runs second lifted the front, and on another it dirt-tracked'er about 2' sideways. Still no clutch slippage.

I'll try to remember to add a comment, and perhaps a pic or two in February, when I tear into'er for next year.

_________________
Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

Cool.

I Look forward to the updates.
And include them pictures.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Do you have any published clamping force data?....I searched their site without luck.

My Dart Service manual puts stock clamping forces at 1500 to 2200 depending on application (ranging up to 10 inch Police)

I found some 10 inch Ranger data that ranged from 1800 to 2300 for OEM equipment.

The second question is about the dual disc....some indicate it's more likely to chatter than single disc....did you see any chatter for your street application?

I read that dual disc cut down on the pedal force by almost half of a single disc......that's the direction I need to go....did you sense a noticeable drop in pedal force from the stock single disc arrangement?

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

hi greg- have only 1 specific question about this clutch. have replaced a few sl6 and 318v8 clutches since 70, always the borg and beck 3 lever types. none have prematurely failed. dont race but do put alot of miles on them. b and b clutch has a lot of holding pressure and requires a lotof leg pressure to operate. once broke the tabs on a z bar and got itwelded . wouldyou believea shyster welder clipped me $50 for this. think it took him 6 minutes. here is my question: is there a big improvement in pressure reduction with this typeof clutch(diaphragm ). when feather dusterclutch with 4spd od needs to be replaced im thinking of using this clutch . feather has a .73 od and a 2.94 axle which gives an effective final drive of 2.15. will the tallness of this final drive put too much stress on the diaphragm clutch which has a lower holding pressure? thanks tons bob f

No even with the stocker engine it won't stress anything....a 4K clutch dump might put a little stress on a stock clutch, a daily driver could make a spec clutch last for a long while... most of the rest of us are dealing with a hot rod engine and much higher rpms that the pressure plate needs to clamp on the pedal release and not bounce or slap, or fail to hold after a lot of spirited driving...

Published clamping Force Data..
No. I dont. Just my word. Its better than stock. I don't have data... Just years and Miles of non slipping driving vs a stock replacement that pretty much sucks for any type of spirited driving.


The Setup I have is a Single Disc. With dual (read 2 different types) of Friction facing Materials. I don't have any problems With a heavy stock A body and an even Heavier Stock F body With a 3.21 Final Rear Ratio.

I Can tell you that The Pedal Force is Different in both Cars. Probably because of the Way the Geometry of the arms are in the Chassis. They are different.

I don't really know if its any lighter than a 3 finger unit for Pedal force.

compared to a 1969 HEMI Unit.. Yes.. Compared to a stock Slant 6 Unit.,. Probably Not. if you want light Pedal force I would go with a Hydraulic Throw out bearing.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I Think it would be fine for whatever you throw at it.. as long as you can find the parts now.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack