I took her to the exhaust shop today to weld in my cutout that arrived in the mail. It's a nice electronic unit that ran about $110. It works perfectly, and seals nicely when it's in the off position.

It's a very fun little modification.






And of course, a video of the new toy in place.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOeevkT-0t0

I cut my own ACCEL plug wires to clean up the stock rat nest that was there before. I made them a bit longer to go into two even looking runs that laid flat. This was more for fun, and because the wire going to plug 5 had failed and was not getting spark to the plug. It's all fixed now.



Dirty...





Also does anyone know what coloring would have been on the dash and carpet in a stock (bronze?) colored dart? I know red and blue ones had red and blue dash pads and interior respectively, but this one came all green inside. I tore the coating off the old dash pad (long story) and was just going to get a 69 dash cap, and remove the lower dash pad and fill the holes. Before I mount it, I'd like it to look like it was for this car, and black is so boring to me on the dash.

Though not the most popular or ideal choice for a turbo setup, I've been researching using the 38/38 as a blowthrough. There is a modified version of it that works, and I'm thinking with a small (say 6 - boost, it may function well if I feather the pedal myself since it's not progressive, and get a different fuel regulator and an electric fuel pump. The floats in the weber are already nitrophyl, and there's a nice unused vent already setup to accept pressure from the charge pipe. There's a few other things to do to the carb itself though. This would be a consistant setup, and would be a for a moderate power increase for driving, not racing.

If I do wind up doing it, I'd leave the Weber right where it's at, build a hat to go to a pipe off to the passenger side, then down to the base of the grill/bumper for a small intercooler, and then back up the driver's side of the radiator and across to a T04e or similar t3/t4 turbo, and just J-pipe it off the stock exhaust manifold, then go back to the stock pipe afterwards. For the intake side of the turbo, I'd like to go to the driver's side wheel well, and pull air from there.

It's all still just a thought though. I've been reading up on using the weber from Jeep Forums, and small truck forums. It's also used a lot on the Mitsubishi Montero - This would be keeping the upgrade (hopefully) below $1,200. If I start my new job and save up, I'd likely just get a 4bbl intake, put an EZ-EFI type system on top, and then go straight from that to a similar piping/turbo setup. That would be around $2,500 total though...

Got my carb in for the turbo build, already got rid of the choke equipment and choke riser.





I have it cleaned for the most part, and am now trying to figure out what on Hanger 18 applies to this. I know the idea is to make the power circuit larger and the jets smaller. I have not removed the jets to see what size they are yet.







I only spent $30 on the carb, and $15 for the rebuild kit with a nitrophyl float. I'll likely need to figure out what jets to put in it as well.

Although I am one for keeping cars as close to original as possible, this really opened my eyes to the amazing possibilities to making modern adjustments but still keeping the classic aspect of the car. Fantastic work!

I wanted it to have something to strap my kids down safely mostly, then I wanted myself strapped down, and when dealing with a four door, it seems most people would rather scrap it and build a 2 door with the parts anyway, so preservation and fun are my top priorities.

Got most of my carb reassembled. I'm still missing some screws, and unfortunately had to re-use the choke coil piece to allow the fast idle cam to function. It just isn't attached to a choke plate anymore. Still trying to figure out what to drill for the power circuit, but I got time to work it out. I got the nitrophyl float in, a new needle and seat, and the rest of the rebuild kit reassembled. Everything mechanical was in good shape, it was just slung with oil. This probably came off of someone's work truck or something.

I'm also thinking since there's already a vent tube coming out of the top of the float bowl that that will suffice for attaching to the charge pipe. It is controlled with a small arm off the accelerator pump, but I may be able to remove the check valve in it all together. Then I believe I need to extend the two regular vents up and away from the inlet of the carb. I'll probably use some brass tubing or some kind of tubing and move them up and into the pipe a ways.


Yeah it's 80's, but I colored it. Baked on some nice enamel and it should hold up nicely. I'll put some fuel resistant sealer in places too to eliminate most of the possiblity of fuel leaking onto the paint.

Bunch of turbo stuff coming in. Still on parts collecting. Once I have everything, THEN its build time.

This is my oil solution, a plate that goes inbetween the oil filter and base and allows 3 attachements to go to it. One is going to be OIL PSI and one is going to be for the turbo oil feed.



T3/T4 turbo is what I'm running and thinking about a new carb choice. I bought a 2300 Holley, so we'll see which one prevails.

What all info do you have on the turbo? (t3/t4 is just frame. AR, housing, openings?) don't mean to sound interrogative, just curious!

ALl I can see is it is an Ar.50 The charge pipe opening is about 2", the intake side is 3"

I figured it was time to catalogue a few more changes to my Dart. I've been building this turbo setup, and have a very in-depth thread for it on FABO. Didn't really want to write everything out twice. But here's a summary.

I have the "manifold" all built which is a single piece (kind of) downpipe/ J-pipe/wastegate pipe all in one. It fits nicely, and I have been parts collecting to get everything together. Literally all I have left before the big mounting is the AFR gauge and sensor, and that's it. Everything else is in hand or on the way to me.

I'm running an electric pump with a boost referenced regulator, which both showed up today, but unfortunately have no time to mount them today.

My custom setup:







I also did a full color change under the hood - again, to make everything more subtle so the turbo components would really stand out. I think it was a good move.



I also have that cutoff out, because I was cutting two big holes on each side of the radiator for the intercooler piping. I went with a 28" intercooler behind the grill, and got rid of the hood latch support, and the latching all-together since i had hood-pins anyway.







The intercooler is mostly hidden in different lighting. If you duck down, you can see it very clearly.



I also have a Holley 350 modified with the Hanger 18 mods ready to go, and a custom carb hat that I made out of two pieces of aluminum. The Blow off valve is integrated into the hat. It makes for a clean looking setup I think.




I also relocated the battery to the trunk (It's in a box now, rather than out in the open)



And I set up a new valve cover that is a modified stock one without a oil stove pipe, and instead will use a newer style breather.



That's just a summary, and the entire build is on FABO if any are interested.

Now I should re-title it "Turbo" 225, not future turbo, thanks to JR, and Bill. Dedman, and Pishta and everyone else for all their continued support and help -this dream became a reality. I gave it a 3 month completion is how long it took me to do it. The main bulk of the install was done in a single weekend though. 3 months were mostly collecting parts, and installing little bits here and there.

Nice work!

Are we looking at two different iterations between the last post and your sig pic?

The picture in the post looks like the turbo has been moved back for clearance at the front (no room for air filter in the sig pic).

Ready to hear how it runs!

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"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Yes, that's version 1 and 2. Version one was in the sig pic and it had a lot of leverage even with a bracket and used an external wastegate and looked, and worked - terribly. V2 is the one i posted, and uses an internal wastegate fixture, and has enough clearance for the filter - and is 100% sound and secure. V1 also didn't produce any boost due to the wastegate being busted, and the piping leaked like no other. v2 works great. Glad you asked about how it sounds, because I do in fact have video of it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShEXj4EoeMs

Got a dyno run in. Had some spark issue at 3700rpm. Once that is sorted out, I'll pull again. This was 8psi. Made 164 rear wheel horsepower, and 224ft/lbs of torque at 3500rpm.

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HElZ4DB49k0

Running the spark plug wires zip tied together can cause problems. Basically when wires run parallel against each other they can induce electrical flow in other wires.

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