The idle are solenoid was totally unresponsive, so I basically blocked it off. However, I would like to get it working right if possible. When I turn the key on, the stepper solenoid extends fully, and then I can turn it back into the body by twisting it clockwise. However, there seems to be not command I can give it from the laptop that will make it retract, which is what it must do to open the valve and let in more air. Hence: no fast idle upon start up. Is anyone here familiar with the steps to take at the laptop to test it?

I opened up the test screen and set every option every way possible and could not seem to get any response out of it. However, when you turn the key on, the valve extends, which closes the valve fully. So at least part of the circuit is working. The valve does not actually close it completely, even in the closed position it idles about 200 rpm higher than with the block-off plate installed.

The car works OK without this, but it bugs that I cannot get it to work. The manual has lots of words, but very little in the way of cause and effect advice. At least to my challenged intellect. The drivability would be better if it did work. Thanks in advance for any knowledge shared.

Sam

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The questions I'm gonna ask are; do you know that the IAC stepper circuits are wired correctly? Does MS have any way to fully test the drivers in the pcm? While you might have a command or setup problem with your software, a wiring or driver fault could make the IAC go in but not out.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

There is a test mode, but I was not getting it at all. After about a dozen emails to Matt at DYI, I think I understand my particular firmware terminology. He says there is a later firmware that is more plug and play.

I have found that if I lightly step on the gas before starting and hold it there a couple of seconds I can duplicate the effect of the IAC enough to make it start more gracefully. I am going to pursue getting the IAC figured out and will let you know what happens. One of the problems we were having was that the terminology on my screen was different from what he was using in his instructions.

You are right, the wiring or driver could be messed up. More to do.

Sam

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You might want to see if adjusting the cranking position setting - or reducing the cranking pulse width - helps with the need to give it extra throttle when cranking.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Thanks Matt. It fires OK and then idles fine at 550 rpm when dead cold. That feels a little low for reliable cold start drivability, but so far it has worked. If I step on the gas a bit, it fires and revs to 2000 where I hold it for a couple of seconds and then let it die back down to 6-700 or so. This is what I would like to get automated.

Since it used to rev to 1500 on its own for about 5 seconds and then slow back down, and now longer does, kind of suspect there is something amiss in the driver for this circuit. However the first sign of trouble was when it would not idle back down, and stayed up at 1500. There have been other fish to fry here, so that project is on the back burner for the time being. I just blocked it off for the time being. Thanks again.

Sam

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Hi Matt, I know it has been awhile since you wrote this. Summer weather has kind of put this on the back burner. What is the "cranking position" setting? Thanks.

Sam

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That's where to move the IAC valve after it first retracts. It stays there until you get the RPM above cranking RPM.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair