1964 Dart GT convertible in 2013, 99% original paint. (I can't seem to link to pic without the following html tags being visible)---> <a href="http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/arcad ... 3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w55 ... e562e3.jpg" border="0" alt="1964 Dart GT convertible in 2013, 99% original paint. photo dartRfront2013_zpsd4e562e3.jpg"/></a>



When I bought my Dart I was 28 and it was the third slant six I had owned in my life, but finally it was the one I always wanted. It was originally from Santa Barbara. When I first got it, it was only running on 5 cylinders so a friend tutored me on how to take apart the top of the engine and we fixed it, plus I had the valves hardened for unleaded gas while we were in there. Its a 225 slant six.

The top was just shreds of canvas, and the first winter I had it I couldn't afford a new top, so I got a piece of army green military canvas used and 'built' a servicable top, it had a glued in plexiglass back window and ropes holding it down to the back wheel wells (if only I had used softer ropes, as they did leave rub marks on the paint that are still there). I wish I had a picture of that army green hand-made top, it was hilarious, but it worked fine.

Eventually I found a new friend who said he'd put on a convertible top before, so I began to prepare to attempt it with him. The car's metal top hardware needed a lot of work, one of the 'ribs' of the top was rusted through so badly that the rearmost one broke off and I had to get another friend to help me use his welding equipment to repair it. The front 'header' area was completely rusted out, and I found another one on a dead convertible Dart in a strangers driveway...at first he did not want to part with the part, but after asking him many times he finally let me pull it. I got all the metal parts in good working order, sanded repainted with Krylon anti rust paint, and then we tried to put the mail ordered top on. It went on poorly...so I took it to a top shop around closing time and managed to talk to a worker who told me about the most important measurement, the one from the top of the back most 'rib' down to the middle of the back window where it hits the frame, I corrected that part and the rest tightened up pretty well.
That top lasted about ten years, until I had it parked too close to the University campus one night and (I am guessing) some drunken frat boy ran up the back of the car, ran across the roof towards the hood, but the ten year old top gave out under him and I hope he broke his leg when it went through the convertible's top. When I returned to the car I found no sign of the culprit, but could see his large foot prints on my trunk, on the ripped top, and my hood. So I had to put another top on, this time around it went on easier.

Over the years I have done a lot of my own work on the car, replaced the carburetor, starter, thermostat (I put in the wrong one and it reads the temp hotter than it should) and many other things, the most interesting repair involved me taking out the radiator because it had a leak that needed repair, and then tying a strap around it to hang it on my back so I could take it down to the radiator shop, all downhill on my bike, about 2 miles, the guys at the shop were impressed. A few years ago I decided the old original paint on my hood was wearing too thin, you could see the dark metal through the white paint, so I tried to spray paint part of the hood (under the instructions of another Mopar maniac using the correct matched color Ivory white paint) but my efforts were in vain because that paint has since flaked off and now its back to where I started --actually its worse than before I started because of the flaky paint....oh well, I keep it waxed. The next paint job I have been procrastinating forever are the 'racing stripes', they are only about 2 inches wide, and were originally Gold to match the interior, but over the years the Gold has worn off and now it looks like oxidized metal. I want to paint it flat black...but I haven't done it yet.

I've been doing less of my own mechanical work since I found the best mechanic, Don of Don's Auto on College Avenue in Berkeley. He is now in his 80's I guess, but he has a son my age, Ian, who will carry on the good traditions. Recently I rec'd some new custom made sun visors for my car, but they did not seem like the right size inner sleeve for the much larger visor rod. It seemed I was going to have to put them on with a sledgehammer and potentially disfigure them in the process, which would not be good if they didn't work out, because the company that made them said they'd not take them back if damaged. So before I attempted it I went looking for advice (Don and Ian looked and said they don't fit).

I drove up the hill and located the other old slant six '60's convertible I've seen driving around, a nice old Valiant. The owner let me look at her visors and see how tight they went on, her's were so tight that in order to recover them she had to sit IN the car and sew the new covers she'd made over the old ones. We chatted for quite awhile and looked over her car, the upholstery was excellent and she told me that an older man had sewn them on for her (and given her a new old back seat, after some other drunken frat boys had stolen hers out of her car! Its dangerous to have a convertible and live near the University). She said the man who sewed them knew everything about slant six cars, and I asked her to put me in contact with him so I could ask about the visors. She said she'd call him and give him my number, and she told me she'd met him through the south bay slant six club that meets in Alviso....I don't remember if she mentioned his name to me.

I went home and forced on the darn visors with my husband's help, we had to put the emergency brake on because the wrangling we were doing was moving the car! Once we got them started, we pounded them on with a hammer, I was hoping we wouldn't slip up, miss or break the rod, and then break out the windshield. Luckily they went on without mishap.

Later that day, I checked online and stumbled upon an old webpage about the Alviso meets, from 2001, and on that page there was an old xeroxed poster for the event, and in small type at the bottom of the xerox was a number you could call for information. I figured it was worth a try...a nice older woman answered and I asked if anyone involved in slant six cars lived there, she said yes, my husband, John. After chatting with him about how I'd found his number, and about the visors (he said they should not have been that hard to get on, and they should have had a creased/foldable corner-so the darn company did send me the wrong ones, but its too late now they will probably never come off), he asked who was it that I spoke with who had the Valiant, I told him her name and he said "I did her upholstery". What a small world! He told me about the next meet up, invited me (even though my car is not fixed up), and I said I'd come and I'd try to bring along the woman with the Valiant too.

OK I think I have some pics of it here from a photobucket collection I just made, but I can't seem to get an album made. Let me know if you can see these along with their titles and comments on photobucket. I keep trying but it doesn't seem to work. THanks, ~A




It had the trunk dents when I bought it...no trunk lock (nor door keys), it keeps the thieves out better that way. My old brake light system stopped working about 10 years ago, so I had to stick some LED's on there and run a wire up to the brake pedal. They don't look very nice, but they work.<a href="http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/arcad ... 4.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w55 ... ce5aa4.jpg" border="0" alt="1964 Dart GT convertible, in 2013, it had the trunk dents when I bought it...no lock, it keeps the thieves out better that way. photo 1964DartRrear2013KKRd_zps3dce5aa4.jpg"/></a>


1964 Dart convertible, 2013, both sides were straight until I slowly slid this side along a tree (above gas cap) and then I parked it across from a driveway (above front wheel well). But both those did not disturb the paint.<a href="http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/arcad ... d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w55 ... 4f451d.jpg" border="0" alt="1964 Dart convertible, 2013, both sides were straight until I slowly slid this side along a tree (above gas cap) and then I parked it across from a driveway (above front wheel well). But both those did not disturb the paint. photo 1964dartLrear2013KKRd_zps4f4f451d.jpg"/></a>


1964 Dart, interior dash and upholstery is original and is shot...but I keep the unrusted floorboards sanded & painted every few years to prevent rusting. I keep covers on the old seats, they are duct taped together...<a href="http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/arcad ... 4.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w55 ... db98f4.jpg" border="0" alt="1964 Dart, interior dash and upholstery is original and is shot...but I keep the unrusted floorboards sanded & painted every few years to prevent rusting. I keep covers on the old seats, they are duct taped together... photo Dart64interFront_zps8edb98f4.jpg"/></a>



This is a pic of the Dart when I first got it, 20 years ago, the black marks near the front wheel are just on the pic not on the car, (the pic of me is from earlier, in my punk poseur phase).<a href="http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/arcad ... 5.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w55 ... a8c2e5.jpg" border="0" alt="1964 Dart & Arcadiax photo Arcadiax64Dart_zpsb0a8c2e5.jpg"/></a>



<a href="http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/arcad ... c.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w55 ... 20004c.jpg" border="0" alt="'64 Dart top ripped by drunken frat boy's foot running across the top...argh. photo DartTopRip_zps2220004c.jpg"/></a>


'64 Dart top ripped by drunken frat boy's foot running across the top...argh.My chrome along the top of the windshield has really begun to corrode in the last ten years...I should have kept it waxed. Is it hard to have those parts rechromed? They look like they screw off easily enough.<a href="http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/arcad ... 9.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w55 ... 10ae59.jpg" border="0" alt="2008 new top going on, with Arcadiax. photo 64DartNewTop_zps4c10ae59.jpg"/></a>


2008 new top going on, with Arcadiax.Prepwork for the new black top, you can see how shot the interior is, the upholstery is original and barely there so I keep it covered, one of these days I should fix it up.

<a href="http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/arcad ... 4.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w55 ... c94b94.jpg" border="0" alt="1964 Dart and Arcadiax in 2008 photo Dart1964in2009_zps4ec94b94.jpg"/></a>

Just put on the new top. With my dog in the front seat. Not sure where that dent on the front corner came from. See the flaky paint on the hood on the driver's side, I tried to redo some thin paint there with custom made matched color spray paint, but now its flaking off and looks worse than before I tried.

About the missing radio, I asked John Moran of the local slant six club and he says he has a '65 to bring to the meet, we'll see if it fits then. Measurements of radio slot are: 4" and 1/4 across top of opening, bottom of opening is 3" and 1/2 across opening. Top of opening to bottom is 1" and 3/4. Top screwhole to top screwhole is 7" wide. Bottom screwhole to bottom screwhole is 8" wide. I did a tracing of it for sharp measurements.<a href="http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/arcad ... b.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w55 ... b9da4b.jpg" border="0" alt="Seeking radio for 1964 Dart photo DartRadioMissing_zps36b9da4b.jpg"/></a>






The pics above are of my car, the pic below is NOT my car.
Just found this Hagerty valuation chart, I guess my car is only in FAIR condition, it has many of the flaws they mention. But even being only FAIR its worth has increased exponentially from what I paid for it. FAIR definition "#4 cars are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the fender has a minor dent. The interior could have split seams or a cracked dash. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or the interior might not be stock. A #4 car can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 car. "source http://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/H ... t?vc=47801


<a title="By AlfvanBeem (Own work) [CC0], via Wikimedia Commons" href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File% ... .JPG"><img width="512" alt="1964 Dodge Dart GT pic-004" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/98/1964_Dodge_Dart_GT_pic-004.JPG/512px-1964_Dodge_Dart_GT_pic-004.JPG"/></a>

NOTE this is not a pic of my car, but its how my car WOULD look if it were fixed up in a perfect world (same color combo, year, etc.) but this one is in mint condition, from wikimedia. ~A

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~Arcadiax

That's awesome you found someone that lives close.
Any pictures of your car be it current or 20 years ago? I'm sure we all want a look no matter the shape

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66_Fury
Old man Sherman wishes for 1 more Barrel.

A wolf that lies in his lair never gets meat, or
A sleeping man victory.

Well Hello, fellow 64 GT owner, you can do a few things to fix that radio hole:

#1 radio block off plate, I sold my last one to ED @ wildcat auto wrecking. they look just like the GT trim just no hole for a radio. Some had it some did not.

#2 throw up a parts wanted ad and get one off the forum or other site.

#3 pay way too much but get a working and tested one from wildcat

#4 or do what I did








btw I got your msg, sorry I do not have a spare radio. I use to have a basement full of parts now its mostly a garage and a closet of goodies ... and NO radios or trim .. sorry

BTW nice car!

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

Will try to post pics of the meet soon.

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~Arcadiax

Look forward to it, great story on you car. Funny, you bought that car when I was stationed at Travis AFB in the early 90's...

Great Story, I really enjoyed it!

64' is my favorite year also, but I am Resto/Modding (Frankensteining!) mine with parts from multiple different years, to make the Best Daily Driver for me.

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1964 Dart GT

sweet great score on the radio!

btw here is my 64 GT! and yes! 64 is the best year I just grabbed a 64 Valiant as my daily driver!

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

Nice post.
Two little cosmetic tricks I found for my 64 GT saved me quite a bit of money on my driver. The double side molding clips (only on the GT I think) will cross over with a VW bug 1967 and up. Several dozen are needed and I have seen used ones on ebag for several dollars each. The VW number is 113 853 585CK. I got a bag of 42 clips from Discount Import Parts for 6 Bucks. Try 503 659-7444.

Another common cosmetic fix, again only for a 64, is a substitute for the rear tail light center chrome trim ring. The tail lights have both an outer and inner ring. The inner ring was plastic and either discolored, the chrome chipped off or they fell off. I found that there are stainless instrument gauge bezels that are just the right size. I found them at a truck (big rig) accessory site. You take off the mounting tabs and glue them on with hot glue. Those repop tail light lenses are a ton of money. For a driver it makes sense to gently wash the lenses, superglue any cracks and keep what you got.

My question is whether you have a specific brand of convertible top kit that you think is best. There is quite a wide range of prices. I have yet to try to do the top myself. It sounds like you did it twice. Most of the kits I have seen have a sewn in plastic window. My top, which was probably not original had a zip in window. Any lessons learned on the top replacement would be appreciated.

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64 Dart GT Convertible, 225 Super 6, Carter BBD, 14x7 SBP Rally Wheels, HEI, Fuel mod, wiring upgrade, Alt upgrade, 2BBL, headlight upgrade, front disc brake conversion

Both of the convertible tops that I used as replacements were made of vinyl covered canvas I think. The first one was a cheap one, the cheapest one I could find in the do it yourself options ($200 or less in 1998), and it lasted ten years (until the hooligan ran across it) -even though this car is not garaged at all. The second top is higher quality because it was a gift, its black this time, its thicker and has better padding, but the color black probably won't last as long as it takes a beating in the sun. I am looking at my note written inside the back pages of my Chilton's, and I see " AARTZ 36 oz Pinpoint Vinyl" also there is the "guide to installing conv tops $6" I also have a small guide, called "How to Install Classic Convertible Tops" from convertibletopguy. THE MAIN MEASUREMENT TO NOTE is the space of 26" from the top-middle of the last 'rib' to the center of the back bottom most part of the top where it meets the frame of the car below the rear window. I recommend getting this kind of guidebook, and reading it, and taking good notes as you go along, measure a lot, and take some digital pics of important tricky little spots as you undo the old top, spots that you might not remember how to redo with the new one, esp back corners where the top goes inside NOT outside of the car. (Also as you uncover the frame, be prepared to repair the metal, it will have rusty corroded spots, get ready to sand&paint parts of the roof frame, header). It took my and a friend a full afternoon to put each top on, it takes a lot of time, two people are needed because you have to hold things in place & measure a lot while someone else screws it down into position. Also, both had the type of plastic back windows that have zippers around them, but I have never unzipped them. An ex-boyfriend with another Dart '72 Conv. unzipped his while his top was up -and the whole window area ripped out. So only unzip if your top is in a slack unlatched position.

P.S. While at the Slant6 meet I made detailed measurements/pattern of a boot cover, and if I get my sewing machine tuned up I should make a new one. There is a pic in the link below of me in the NYT measuring a borrowed boot on the back of my car. They got my last name wrong there.

P.S.S. Here is a link to the NYT coverage of the Slant Six meetup I attended with my car, its pic made it into the NYT. •SLIDE SHOW (15 photos from the latest Slant Six Gathering) The New York Times just posted a three-part coverage of the annual SF Bay-area reunion of A-bodies and Slant-Six-powered Anythings. :
http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2013/1 ... lides.html

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~Arcadiax

Well...I hate to admit it, but I have been considering selling my old Dart. I rarely use it anymore (its our third car) and we don't have a driveway on our tiny dead end street, so parking is limited. I've had the Dart for 20 years now, and have had a lot of fun with it (within my 100 mile AAA towing radius-in case it needed to be hauled back to my trusty mechanic), but I do not have the resources to restore it, I just keep it running, I don't fix it up beyond utilitarian purposes. I think it would be good if it found a new home with someone who could afford to restore it to its former grandeur. Hopefully someone who would keep it, and not just fix it up for resale.
I have been looking at other similar Darts for sale to try to figure out how much to ask, some people are selling dead cars on blocks with bad rust for $3k. How much should I ask for a 'daily driver' in imperfect shape like mine?
Here is one of the same kind for sale for $5800
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/4450066746.html

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~Arcadiax

I contacted the author of the NYT piece, Dave Wallace Jr., and he asked a few of his friends in the classic car field what they thought about a guesstimate price for my Dart. Here are their responses paraphrased:

"Cool car, I would guess listing it for $4k-$5k."

"If the Kind Lady's '64 Dart is rust free, I could see it getting somewhere between $3,000 and $8,000 in these parts (MidWest). But it'd need to be super solid in the floors, frame rails and all hidden areas - a very tall order for a drop-top regardless of its origins."

"NADA puts "average" right around 9K and Hagerty for a "fair" condition 1964 Dart GT SL6 between 5-9K. Check the links below":

NADA:

http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/ ... ble/Values

Hagerty:

https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/ ... ?vc=116738

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~Arcadiax

I would say $3000+ would be a fair asking price, judging from condition only from your pictures. Maybe more because you live in California?

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1964 Dart GT

Danarchy, where did you get those wheel covers?

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ifyoubegintothinkyou'relosingcontrol...it'salreadygone

My mechanic says he considers my car to be low rust even underneath, its originally from Santa Barbara, always been near the coast in the Bay Area, not near the Sierra's on salted snowpacked roads, he thinks rust is not an issue. It does have a little rust though, here and there, but its not bad, and I've kept it at bay with removal and RUST BUSTER by Simpson Coatings, which neutralizes rust chemically. If anyone knows where to get more of that stuff let me know, I can't find more of it. But I hear that Rust Mort does the same thing.
My '64 DART is still not officially for sale, but some one has heard about it and is interested...

Ode to a '64 Dodge Dart, "Under the Wrench" by Red Meat.
http://www.soundclick.com/bands/page_so ... gID=122684

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~Arcadiax

they came on the car when I bought it. They are listed on eBay right now! I am not a fan of hub caps.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281346694520?ss ... 1555.l2649

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1964 Dart GT