I know, this is Mopar, but the Ford rear is destined to go in the Dart. I was going to pull the pumpkin, but with all the nuts removed it is still on there pretty tightly. I removed all of the bronze washers which I figured must be for leak proofing. They look like brake banjo washers. But it is solidly in there, and I am afraid to hit it.

The gears feel OK to me. There is some static friction which goes away once I get the pinion moving. I was going to clean it up inside, and clean the gears of crude I could tell had adhered to the ring on one side only from sitting. If I do not get some advice to hit it harder, or don't worry, you cannot hurt it, I may just track down new bronze washers and new nuts and button it back up and hope for the best.

Does the Mopar rear use those bronze washers? I also kind of assume the modern gasket making products like The Right Stuff would mitigate the need for the bronze. But I do not know. Maybe the Ford studs had a habit of leaking through from inside the axle housing.

Thanks for any advice you have to offer.

Sam

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On mine I just rap it with a dead blow hammer, it is always going to be like that to remove it. I also use plain washers under the nuts.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Give it a Good Smack! It'll come apart.

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1964 Dart GT

Ok! Thanks.

Sam

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Is this a Ford 9 inch rear?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Did you remove the axle shafts already?

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

Axles - that would be amusing. Everyone missed you at M-D, Charles!

Whack it with a dead blow or piece of wood under the hammer.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks Lou. Goof advice about the wood. . Yes, axles are out. Lou, I think I am going with standard long studs in the axles, if the ones you gave me fit. The knurled end looks the same size as the extended shoulder ones I got from TSMMFG.

Sam

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<short , sharp , shock.....>

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Sam,

It's a Ford product, hit it with a hammer! Just kidding, yes, I'd always use some wood between a hammer and a metal object. Don't want to mar/dent/deform your work piece. Hardwood works best, oak or poplar; doesn't absorb as much of the blow as say pine, yet is still softer than steel.

brian

I roll my floor jack, with a block of wood, under the front end of the center section... and start jacking. That usually "pops" the gasket seal but also makes a gear oil mess out of my floor jack. (No dran plug)
DD

Thanks Doc. That sounds like a great tip to remember for once the rear is bolted in the car. I will remember it. Right now it is sitting on a chunk of plywood on saw horses. I think a BFH and chunk of wood will have to do. My Mustang friend Steve says those bronze washers are to keep it from leaking. I have a couple of emails out to companies supplying RWD 3rd member parts.

Sam

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Found gasket, seals and a nut and copper washer set from Mustangs America in Oregon. Still haven't hit it hard enough to break loose the pumpkin, even with a five pound sledge. I tipped the rear on end and drained the clean/flush oil, and it is better, but still very mud like. I will flush it again.

Sam

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Support the housing "legs", near the center section, with 2 blocks of wood, in a way that gets the assembly off the floor and allows room to place an oil catch pan, under the gasket joint area.

Place a 3rd block of wood, under the front "nose" of the center section, just behind the yoke.

Now hit the top of the "supported" assembly, at the top of the gasket joint area... that should crack-open the gasket joint, on the opposit side.
DD

Thanks Doc, I will try that. Sam

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