Not sure where the stain is coming from specifically, Id guess the float bowl cover, not even positive what model carb this is yet but Id guess a 1920.

Truck starts and idles fine but after driving some small distance it will sputter and just quit. A stab at the fuel pedal and turn of the key and it will start right back up again.

Carb was re-built less than a year ago, previous owner blames problems on the ethanol fuel, truck has sat for an un-known amount of time which prob. did not help.

Can someone get me started here with what I need to know to fix the problem?

When I had my 1920 the gasket came loose on the carb base and started dribbling fuel like that. Also the two nuts holding it down came loose just about all the time. The float bowl cover for me had a small leak, but tightening the four phillips machine screws stopped that issue. There was also a time I set the float level too high and fuel just started shooting out of the vent and pretty much everywhere else.

Best guess would be the carb is warped where the float cover has the gasket caused by tightening the 4 screws to tight.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I will check for either too loose of screws or too tight, if too tight and warped what is the fix for it? Thanks

I second this! Almost every carb I have tried to rebuild has had this issue. From Holleys and Edelbrocks, to the Carter, Mikunis, solex, etc.... I have had to flatten out a float bowl, or accel pump cover or something on them!

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

I bought some rubber type (Butadiene Acrylonitrile ) gasket material at the local auto parts store and made my own float bowl gasket. It is about a 1/16th of an inch thick and stopped the small drizzle/leak I had. The gaskets that came in the "Walker" kits I bought just didn't work.

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1964 Dart GT

I used the gasket from here, the gasket worked fine.
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Holley- ... _1390.html

Dave

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86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

I know this may sound like a stupid question but it is asked in all honesty.

Is it possible to rebuild these old carbs with a carb kit purchased from _?_?_?_?_?__ and have it operate like new again?

I have re-built a few carbs, not long ago I went thru the carb on my lawn mower and it ran great for a season and then started behaving poorly again.

I have little experience with such things so therefore I have little confidence in myself but I would like to learn.

I said in my first post that it started up and idled fine ect, that was the day I drove it home, now it starts fine but does not idle at all. By looking at it I can tell it has been gone thru already but I guess sitting the way it has screwed something up.

Can I buy a carb kit that can deal with the fuels we have today?

I have had for some reason stuck in my head that a carb re-build is only a temporary fix, for some reason I seem to think that carbs are so delicate and have so many unservicable parts that a carb kit is really only a band-aid.

As you can tell I have little to no concept of the inner workings of a carb.

I plan to go thru the section in the faq here on this site covering this carbs.

Actually, the reason there are only a few servicable parts in the kits is because nothing really wears out. You can definately get an old carb to run like brand new, but it takes time, attention and patience. Plus it doesnt hurt to start with a carb that you KNOW hasnt been tampered with or altered in any way.

I have only seen a couple carbs that were unusable, and usually does stem from misuse or alterations. The others were just things like worn throttle shaft that could have been rebushed, or major components simply broken or missing.

Again this is really assuming that the carb is complete and nobody had physically damaged anything over the years from neglect or abuse...

For your issue, you may be able to run the bowl over a perfectly flat surface with some sandpaper until it is pretty even again. Other issues tend to stem from screws or bolt coming loose after a couple heat cycles and can be remedied by snugging them all back down

_________________
"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

So are there todays fuel friendly re-build kits? Would you suggest going with a kit from Mikes carbs or Napa kits same quality?

I see E-bay has a few old stock re-build kits as well.

Thanks

I used the Napa Kit. It was pretty well detailed, but for some reason I could never find the paper float gauge they said was in it, so I used calipers. It sets you back about $45.00 but included two different types of accelerator pump diaphraghms and a couple other nice goodies.

Look for metal to matal contact at bowl screw suport area. Some times those corners are bent and pushing against carb main body be fore gasket is compressed, File them flat. ..............An other thing that could be leaking is the acelerator pump diaphram

I would hope most kits have the appropriate pieces in it to bring things up to date. However, I went through about 3 "hygrade" brand kits before getting one that had an up-to-date accel pump in it. The others would baloon and tear after a week or two being in it.

I noticed for that brand it was a difference of a green accel pump vs an orange colored one. Ive seen similar ones on other sites as well...

I should also mention mines a Carter BBD

_________________
"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

I have a couple of BBDs I also plan to eventually go thru so again a big help, thanks.