I am getting ready to remove the valve train and head from the current project hydraulic slant from '83. Do I need to keep the push rods and rockers in order, or can I dump them in a can of cleaner? They will most likely go on an earlier head eventually.

Another related question: a few of the rockers actually have a little play in them when on the base circle. Is this because the lifters have bled down, or is it possible these push rods are at the limit of being too short? I am planning to mill head and block to get 9:1 compression and wondering ahead of time if new push rods are going to be needed. Thanks.

Sam

_________________

Not to hijack the thread but eager to help.

Have you CCd the heads yet and taken your other measurements. I can help you with this in excruciating detail if you need it. I am writing a guide to these sorts of things for dummies and I am sure I can clear any questions up you might have.

Let me know

I have not crossed that bridge yet. I think I am using another head. I was going to have hardened seats installed, which changes things, but now have read this is not so eagerly recommended. Someone posted a scaring thread saying he hit water doing this. I think I will let my machinist decide. He has rebuilt slants, and is an experienced engine builder/racer. He wants to know my cam first before he decides on a combustion chamber size. I will measure the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the block before I take things down further. I will also check TDC index to the harmonic balancer before taking off the timing chain cover.

Sam

_________________

The only real concern on teardown would be keeping the lifters in order with their cam lobes (IF you were going to reuse them). Otherwise pull the valve train off, clean 'em up & inspect parts individually.

If you're getting into the crank bearings, you need to keep the bearing caps on the block & rods in order & oriented correctly.

Pushrod length on hydraulic lifter engine will depend on how much the head is cut, head gasket height, how much lifter preload you want, cam base circle, etc, etc. For a generic rebuild, your current pushrods might work if they don't bottom out the plunger in the lifters. For hi perf build you'll likely need custom length ones- the cam companies have info on how to measure what you'll need.

_________________
63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

I keep everything in order when I tear something down.....

That way if something comes up later you can identify all the parts connected to the issue. ( hip bone connected to the trombone)

Things like rockers and pushrods are easily swapped around when things are being reassembled.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Just be sure to take notes or pictures of the order the rockers and spacers on the rocker arm shaft. Pushrods are interchangeable.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Based on how many engines get built out of pieces left over from other engines and tend to run for a very long time, Id say that its not extremely crucial. The lifters must be back in the same holes if you are re-using them and the cam... NEVER use old lifters on a new cam either!
As mentioned, rod caps and main caps must be installed exactly how the came off.

On my rebuilds I tend to keep it all seperate regardless of re-using anything or replacing. All go into bags that are premark I-1, E-1, etc... Then I just take one bag at a time, clean each piece and inspect. Clean parts go back in the bag they came out of and move on....

Helps to identify cylinder specific issue too when you have things seperate and organized...

_________________
"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

Thanks all! I appreciate the tips.

Sam

_________________