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 Post subject: Odd rear axle?
PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
Posts: 1387
Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
A friend of mine bought a '63 Dart wagon up in Arlington, Wa. He is having work done by a local mechanic, and the mechanic told me that it has an 8 3/4 rear end that has tapered bearings, and he can't see how to adjust the pre-load in the bearings. My 8 3/4 has roller bearings that press on the axle shafts like the 7 1/4. What the heck has he got in that thing?

Is there anyone in the Arlington area who may be able to help out?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 2:57 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Stock 8 3/4 rears have tapered roller bearing that press on the axle shaft. There should be an adjuster on one of the axle retainers. I actually forget which side. It does not get adjusted for preload, but rather, axle end play. Any service manual (aftermarket or factory) will give the correct procedure.

Just thought of something. Is the Dart the "big "car or an "A" body. The big cars had 8 3/4 rears that had tapered axles, with a big nut that held the drum on. I think those rears used shims to adjust the end play. I would have to check the manual, to refresh my memory.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:44 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
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Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
Thanks Charlie. It's a '63 A-Body. I may be wrong about my axle because I haven't been in there since 1988, but I don't remember having the tapered rollers on it. I'll pass your info on.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 11:13 am 
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A 8 3/4 rear can have the aftermarket "green bearings" installed, These are a sealed ball bearing. There is no adjustment when using these bearings.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:20 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
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Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
I got my bare housing many years ago (no gears or backing plates). I remember buying axles and backing plates from a '64 B-Body wagon and sending them off to be cut down & re-splined because I had converted to '73 discs up front on my '63 convert. and wanted the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern on the rear to match the front.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 8:29 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:27 am
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Location: Waynesboro VA
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The tapered bearings are the stock types. There is NO adjuster on the axle bearings; that is being confused with the adjuster on the side bearings of the differential.

The side play in the tapered axle bearings is set with shims in the end of the axle housing. If this mechanic does not know this, and obviously does not know how to find a factory service procedure and use that, then IMO, it is time to get the alxe away from that mechanic and get it to someone who knows what they are doing!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2003 7:15 am
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Location: N. California
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If this mechanic does not know this, and obviously does not know how to find a factory service procedure and use that, then IMO, it is time to get the alxe away from that mechanic and get it to someone who knows what they are doing!
Relatively good advice... but it need not be delivered with such attitude, eh? ;)

After 50 years, a lot of changes can happen to a car. One thing we can guarantee is that a 63 A-body was not born with the 8.75 rear end--- it wasn't available until 66. Even the first Formula S Barracudas came with the 7.25 rear end, presumably until someone at Chrysler got tired of paying warranty claims.

So, before you can find the right Factory Service Manual, it helps to answer the question of what's inside the housing? Is it the early 63-64 style (brake drums pressed on, I believe) that someone cut down (axle tubes shortened)? That's not quite as likely as just finding the 66-72 A-body unit, which although frighteningly expensive now, wasn't always. I'd bet on that approach, since it's so much easier to do... and especially if this may have been in the car for many years.

Another thought: it could be any Frankenstein combination of anything-- might not even be a Chrysler product, although that's unlikely. Just sayin'.
Quote:
The tapered bearings are the stock types. There is NO adjuster on the axle bearings; that is being confused with the adjuster on the side bearings of the differential.
Let's make sure we are talking about the 8.75 axle. My memory says it was different than anything else Chrysler made-- but that's from reading books, since my hands-on axle experience is limited to only a few examples. For 8.75, my 67 C-body and 71 A-body had a single adjuster on the right side. It was for axle end play, as Charlie noted.

- Erik

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:27 am
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Location: Waynesboro VA
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LOL.... not an attitude... it's vehemence! I do most all my own work and do so as about 50% of the few times taking things to shops, something is done wrong.... and I mean truly wrong, not just to nit-picky standards. If a mechanic does not know how to figure things up, they should not be getting paid for it for sure.... my advice for the OP.

In reference to the adjusters, my early B body FSM ('62) makes it clear that both sides use a shim pack for end play adjustment. You got me to do some searching and sure enough, the end play adjuster appeared in '65; I am better educated now...thanks! (Found the info in eBay of all places.... really!?!)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 4:16 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2003 7:15 am
Posts: 285
Location: N. California
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Quote:
LOL.... not an attitude... it's vehemence! I do most all my own work and do so as about 50% of the few times taking things to shops, something is done wrong.... and I mean truly wrong, not just to nit-picky standards.
I totally understand. Even with a job as simple as new tires, I put the car up on stands, toss the loose wheels into the trunk of a different car and go to the shop-- don't want anyone installing wheels on the car using an impact wrench... whether they use torque sticks or not. This was especially true when I drove a car with Left-Hand thread wheel studs!

Still, attitude and vehemence are closely related. I know both very well, could easily be accused of acting like an old fart and sometimes they'd be right... but I try to be careful with the written word when I have no control over who will read it. :D No point in encouraging customers away.

- Erik

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Lots of early Valiants and Barracudas have crossed my path.
Also a handful of other toys for variety now and then.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 8:42 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:27 am
Posts: 548
Location: Waynesboro VA
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Hey Erik,

Before you rush too far to judgement, just take the time to read my posts and help on the forabodiesonly forums....you'll see that I am one of the patient and low 'attititudinal' guys that regularly post there. Long story made short: I initally disliked a guy who later became my best racing buddy; he seemed cold and too 'Spock-like' but I luckily learned to see who he really was and value his ability to analyze things.

The main point is if the OP gets the help he or she needs...IMO.

Regards,
Mark B.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 10:50 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
Posts: 1387
Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
The mechanic working on this car does not work on old cars as a rule. He is doing it for Glenn because he has known him for a long time. I certainly don't know much about these axles either. The one I built for myself is a Frankenstein, so who knows what he has, At least he has the sense to ask questions.

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