I noticed that my engine is missing the correct hardware to secure the manifold to the head. The deals that go on the ends that allow it to slide.

Truck runs great with no major issues so of course I am apprehensive to screw with it.

This is a Jasper re-built engine, evidently whomever put it together knew that there was supposed to be some special hardware there cause they did make some small effort. This is the front closest to the rad

Here is closest to the firewall

And this is the middle one which does look correct

I dont want to ask for problems so maybe I just need to address this, hopefully if I remove one nut at a time I wont have problems with the gasket leaking?

I do have what I believe is the correct hardware, I am making it a point to grab this sort of stuff at the salvage yards when I see a slant six.

I wouldn't mess with it, it's working fine and if one of those studs strips or breaks your little project just got bigger.

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But if the exhaust manifold can't float during expansion and contraction, and it cracks, your project just got bigger than that.

It was a fairly common problem (especially when these slant sixes were just old tired Daily Drivers, as opposed to antique collector's items.) For any mechanic who doesn't realize it's supposed to float--- when the old manifold rusts into place (on the studs or whatever) and cracks, and the user installs a replacement but tightens it down really well to make sure that "this one won't fall off, by George..." and a few months later the new one cracks.

- Erik

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Lots of early Valiants and Barracudas have crossed my path.
Also a handful of other toys for variety now and then.

Ok so I will put a wrench on it and see if it comes loose, more likely it will. Here in Fl. I have torn down quite a few of them now and have yet to have one break.

Im sure location/environment is a big factor.

What are you guys doing to dress the flat areas on the manifold where the hardware is supposed to slide? Prob. not much I can do, its not like any sort of grease is going to not burn off.

I pulled apart a 64 engine yesterday, the person who put it together did not put the stud or any hardware on the rear runner top location.

He did put the bottom stud in.

Anyway it would have been impossible to have put the stud on. It had curled up so far the hole in the head was not even visible.

I guess chances are that is the way he found it and instead of replacing the manifold just decided to bolt it back together the best he could.

Before you try to break the nuts loose spray the crap out of them with PB Blaster for a couple days. You'll be glad you did.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

....what he said

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Slantzilla, what do you do if anything to the areas on the manifold that are the hardware are supposed to slide against.

The flat areas of the manifold? How do you dress them?

How long has it been running like this?

Use a little heat on the nut too if in doubt. PB Blaster is your friend.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Not sure too be honest. Previous owner story has turned a bit sketchy concerning truck.

What is your procedure for prepping the flat surfaces on the manifold where the hardware bolts up Rick. Do you just put the hardware on and then tighten it down to the 10 ft pds suggested?

Has anybody used brass nuts to prevent corrosion? Those Eye-talian cars like my alfalfa romero have brass nuts on all the exhaust studs - and the nuts on my 25+ year car just easily screwed off when I upgraded the exhaust system to cast headers. Let's not talk about the exhaust nuts on my VW camper . . . . (I'm butchering the spelling of my car so you won't have to. Seen Alpha, Alfha and a host of wonderful manglings of Romeo)

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Tom
'86 Alfa Romeo Spider, red "Dinsdale"
'10 Corvette, red "" (no name yet)
'95 Ferrari 348, red "Zoom"
'04 Maserati, black "Evil"
'05 Aston Martin DB9, green "Bond, Treasury bond."
'82 Dodge W150 Power Ram, yellow "E. Valdez"

Well if it isn't leaking and it isn't cracked I'd leave good alone. IF the nuts come off easy then perhaps just slip the correct hardware on and call it a day....but, it isn't pretty, but it looks like it's been there a long time and worked. IF you want it done correctly, sure, go ahead, but it looks like an old engine, so where do you start and stop? Imagine if you were unlucky enough to break a stud, then pull the manifold, it's a bit warped and you're not happy with it, so then you're searching for another manifold...if it's just a runner then leave it 'til it's being rebuilt or leaking.

That is what I do. No special prep.

But if it has been on there a while and not leaking I'd just leave it alone. If it ain't broke.....

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Thanks guys, the engine hasn't been put together long. I do have the receipts from previous owner showing when this newly rebuilt engine was installed and so have an accurate mileage record.

I even have the receipt of where the manifolds were trued up.

I am going to go ahead and put the right hardware on there so it can slide/do its thing. After seeing the amount of warpage on the 64 manifold this weekend it clicks for me just how much these manifolds do move and I don't want to inhibit that movement.

I believe using brass nuts is common on this application. I have read that here on this forum. Can't give the details 'cause my head is swimming with all the info I have read, trying to cram so many years knowledge in my pea sized brain is not easy.

I wished I'd paid more attention in school.

Just because it should be linked in this thread ...

DOC'S MANIFOLD INSTALLATION ARTICLE

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO