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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:56 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13105
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I am finally going to swap the rear axle gears in the 8 1/4 in my brother's Duster this weekend. I am getting a full axle rebuild kit from Randy's Ring and Pinion plus axle bearings and I already have the 8.25 ring and pinion and carrier from a junked Dodge van.

I have never done a full xle rebuild or a gear and carrier swap before. Aside from a dial gauge (which I have) to set up the gear depth, will I need any specialty tools? The rebuild kit comes with gear marking compound and a brush, so those are covered. I assume I will be making a tool to tighten the pinion nut on final installation.

I have a 5 ton shop press, will this be OK to do all the bearing removal and installation required?

Any tips or advice that isn't covered in the factory service manual?

Recommendations for rear axle lube for regular street dail driving (non-sure-grip)?

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 12:23 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
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Location: IRWIN PA
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THe Press Should be fine depending jhow tight the bearings are.. SOme time I sand the pinion with fine emory cloth and somtimes they are loose.


I recommend gettting an FJM scrap transverse tortion bar with the Big Hex on the end for setting your adjusters.


Greg

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 12:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
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Location: Eugene, Oregon
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How about an inch pound torque wrench for setting the preload on the pinion.

Richard

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 1:33 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Somewhere I have a clicker-style inch-pound wrench, but I have never figured out how to use it. I guess now is the time!

Hmmm. I don't think I will have time to scrounge a scrap torsion bar. I remember I asked about the adjusters before and someone gave me the specifications for a hardware store nut that will work instead of a torsion bar. I will search the forum and dig that up.

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 1:38 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Found it:
Quote:
I made a tool using a common 36mm (about 1 7/16") hex axle nut (Honda, etc.) that you should be able to find used laying around any mechanic shop.
I had a piece of aluminum curtain/shower rod that fit nicely inside it, so I used the stake flange of the nut to lock them together.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 3:52 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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You will need a dial type inch pound torque wrench. It is for measuring the rolling torque of the pinion bearings, so it is a moving measure not a click and you are there so much.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 3:56 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I have a dial gauge, but not a dial torque gauge. Crap. Maybe Autozone has one in their loan-a-tool prgram….

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:15 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Oops Yeah.. Forgot about the Prelaod Checkers..

Also a Dial Indicator for the Backlash.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:32 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I am wondering if I wouldn't be better off saving up and paying someone else to do this. I am switching the entire carrier and ring and pinion assembly and then installing all new bearings and gaskets etc… I don't have the tools or experience to do this right, and I really don't want to mess it up. Argh. I need to call around and get estimates from shops that do this kind of work.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 8:28 am 
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Yeah it can be tricky and tedious and repetitive. And having done a couple of rear gear sets, I went through several crush sleeves so you you need those on hand. If you can find a GOOD shop, it may well be worth the $$ to farm out.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 12:34 pm 
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"Sub-contracting" might not be a bad idea (it might be different if you envision doing several sets & want the experience). The hex adjuster on chrysler's carrier bearings makes setting backlash nice- with the correct hex tool. BUT you either need the fancy factory-type pinion depth checking tool set or you'll be pulling the pinion multiple times to change shims to get a good tooth contact pattern. To do that you're pressing the bearings on/off multiple times without damaging them, or getting-making pinion "checking" bearings. These are normal pinion bearings that have the inside of the race honed slightly so that you "slide" them onto the pinion.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 1:11 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Yes, this sounds like a job for a trained professional (not me), not a self-trained hack (me). I will be installing the new leaf springs and bushings but letting someone with the tools and knowhow install the gears.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 2:01 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Holy crap! The estimate I got to replace the gears was $800-900! :shock: That is more than we paid for the whole car. I might be getting some tools and teaching myself how to install rear gears.

Heck, it would be cheaper to just find a different rear axle that has the right gearset already installed. Good grief...

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 2:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
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Location: CA
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That doesn't seem right... imagine should be about half that at the most if not less. Unless it included replacing the differential with a sure-grip. Those are pricy.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 2:35 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Find a 4x4 shop for the rearend.

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