Does anyone have the Chrysler "engineering" dimensions, for the Crank centerline to the cam centerline, and crank centerline to block deck, for the 170 and 225 blocks?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

No one can help?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Who was the contact when we did the timing gear deal buy a couple of years ago?

They should have that dimension.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I am on the road, but from memory I believe the crank centerline to block deck is 10.68" for a 225. 170 is probably 9.18", but I am less certain about that. No idea on the cam/crank distance.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That is a good idea. My contact no longer works there, but a phone call might yield results for the crank/cam numbers.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks, Lou. I'll see if those numbers look good. When you get home, could you double check?
I just aquired a 170 block, crank, rods, that have been machined. New pistons are new 2.2 turbo pistons. Without figuring out the dish cc's, these pistons (having a lower compression distance) would come out to a low 6-1 CR. But the block has some numbers on it in paint marker, that are close to the difference in the compression distance between the stock piston, and the 2.2 pistons. I don't want to press the rods/piston, and assemble anything, to see the deck height, yet. But I'm thinking, by cutting the deck about .100, (it might have already been cut) and milling the head, this might work for a turbo motor, if not NA.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Maybe take an old piston pin and grind/sand it down so you can slip it in and do a deck ht check with crank, rod, piston in there?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I have two rods (a 170 and a 225) with the small end honed for a slip fit, to use for "test" fitting. Just didn't want to put the crank in and assemble stuff at this time.

Just dug up an empty 170 block and using a large vernier, measured from the main saddle on both blocks. The "new" block looks to be about .169 shorter (decked). Checked the compression distance on a stock piston, and the 2.2 pistons. The 2.2 pistons are .179 shorter. So it looks like the PO already decked the block (a lot).

PS: This is not the NOS 170 motor I got from Ssg Pohlman up in Il.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Sounds like you are getting close...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Sounds like the PO went about doing a turbo motor the hard way. The 2.2 pistons have a 17 cc dish, and if they wind up .015 down the hole, with a shim gasket, it will need a milled head, to get the CR up to the mid 8's.
I'll probably put it together, as I have the parts (block, crank, rods, pistons, bearings, need rings and gaskets) and the machine work is already done.

One thing, I got thinking about while looking at this, and then seeing the post by DKD using the buick pistons. Why not use a dished piston (make unknown), cut the deck, to have the top of the piston above the deck, and have quench? The dish would keep the CR reasonable.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Yep, that is way to go, and people do this with many motors. I think many OEMs design for this.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988